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Without looking at the tire or actually hearing whether or not the "clicking": is coming from the tire, I'd have to say that most likely your tire has taken on a hitchhiker: a screw or nail that is "clicking" when it taps the the ground with each tire rotation. Does the speed of the clicking speed up and slow down concurrently with your speed? Have you had to fill the tire lately or semi-regularly? Inspect the tire carefully tread and sidewalls and between the treads....If you do find a screw or nail, don't pull it out as it's all that's keeping you air from really coming out. If you can safely drive, take the car to your selection of tire/auto shops/mechanics, or perhaps put on the spare if you'd feel more safe. As long as the puncture isn't on the side wall or too extensive (and there's actual life in the tread still!) they should easily, quickly and CHEAPLY be able to plug the puncture for you and have you back on the road again in no time!
Change filter in transmition and check for band pices or trash. If you do, put 1/2 new and 1/2 old trans fluid back in. Then check speed sensor to see if it is OK. I have 1996 F150 300six with E40D trans. I have 267000 mills on my truck.
if you look under the wheelarch,above the front wheel,if you can see a strut surrounded by a spring,then you have both.(the damper is inside the strut)(ive put it this way so you can see for yourself.)NOW tyre wear,if your shockers have gone the wear pattern will be flat across the tyre tread/no tread/tread/no tread,and you will feel like you have square wheels.
to check shockers, push hard down on one corner,the car should bounce up,then down,then settle at its original height.no more.
there is a tentioner pulley that you can stick the head of a 3/8in. drive rachet into and turn it like your trying to loosen it, it should give you some slack, the whole bracket will shift when you apply pressure.
This is how 2.8TD.Remove the belts (fan and power steering)with a 10mm socket un-screw the plastic cover. To remove the bottom pully their is 3 small screws inside the pully (10mm or 12mm) unscrew them and take off the pully. Do not try to remove the big nut. Remove the plastic cover. Their is a small hole in all the drive wheel's their is a treaded hole in the engine block behind each one and a mark on the crank shaft. Turn the engine until the mark on the crankshaft is at the top then push the bolts ( metric course tread 12 or 13 mm head 4 to 5 ins long) through the holes in the drive wheel's and try to screw them in if they dont line up first time turn the crankshaft 1 turn and try again. When they all line up screw in the bolds this keeps the timing in place. Release the tention pully (the one with no tracks on and pushing against the back of the belt) remove the old belt replace. To tighten the tention pully put a small socket bar in the square hole turn until the belt is tight hold the preasure on the socket bar ant tighten the locking screw. Remove the screws job done.
All u need to do is put a wrench on the tention pully and turn it clockwise... this will relive the tention take off the old belt ....put on new one. repeat relive pressure again ...slip it on pully... and relese tention..... done! :)
It is regular threads. You need to use a strap wrench to hold the pulley. Or make one by using a old leather belt. Just wrap the belt around the pulley. Put one end through the belt loop in the opposite direction.