How do i change the front driver wheel bearing on my 06 g6 gt. anti-lock brake system

You do not bleed brakes in an "X" pattern. You start bleeding at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Once that wheel is bled, move to the next furthest away from the master cylinder and so forth. Doing it in and "X" pattern would leave air in the lines.

Could be that the callipers are jamming or the wheel is running tight. Check for wheel spin with the front wheels off the ground, they should spin with minimum effort. Could also be something wrong with the master cylinder. It may not be releasing properly and slowly building pressure to lock the brakes. After sitting for a while, it returns to normal position and releases the brakes. Mt Ford had a dud wheel bearing which would intermittently start to seize. When this happened, the anti lock braking system thought that the wheel was about to lock and would throw the brakes on and off without warning... Check your wheel bearings too.

Wheel bearings don't hum. How about a traction control or anti break lock system malfunction? Or maybe something in your powersteering system

Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
The front wheel bearings are not serviced separately. If the front wheel bearings are defective, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Lubricate the threads on the halfshaft with clean engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Front wheels
   • Halfshaft hub nut
   • Caliper from the steering knuckle WARNING
     DO NOT allow the brake hose to support the weight of the caliper.
     
   • Brake rotor
   • Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor from the backing plate
   • Hub and bearing assembly from the backing plate
   • Hub and bearing assembly from the halfshaft
   • Hub and bearing assembly

To Install:
Exploded view of the front hub mounting and related components

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Hub and bearing assembly onto the halfshaft
   • Hub and bearing assembly to the backing plate. Torque the 3 bolts alternately and evenly to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
   • ABS sensor
   • Brake rotor
   • Caliper on the steering knuckle.
   • Halfshaft nut. Torque it to 118 ft. lbs. (160 Nm).
   • Front wheel. Torque the nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).

If it has the 4 wheel anti lock brake system, yes. All Durangos came with rear wheel anti lock brakes, standard. I would look to see if there is a black cable going to the front wheel hub area. Or any markings on the vehicle stating 4 wheel anti lock brakes or rear wheel anti lock brakes, it may say on the brake pedal. You do have upper and lower ball joints.

make sure you are bleeding them by doing them as an abs system,do the right rear then the left front,then the left rear then the right front,the opposite wheels are how the system brakes.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/


Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
   
3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).
   
   Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
   
4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
   
5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
   
7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).
   
   
   
   
   
8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
   
9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.
   
   
   
   
   
10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    
11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.
    
    
    
    
    
12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
    
13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
    
    
    
    
    
14. Remove the tie rod end nut.
    
    
    
    
    
15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    
16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.
    
    
    
    
    
17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.
    
    
    
    
    
18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
    
19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
    
20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
    
21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    

Installation

1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
   

1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
   

1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
   

1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).
   
   

Anti-Lock Control —Vehicles Built After 03/2002 The 3-channel anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:

• front wheel speed sensors
• front wheel speed sensor rings
• hydraulic control unit (HCU)
• Anti-lock brake control module (ECU)
• rear wheel speed sensor
• rear wheel speed sensor rings
• yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator

The 4-channel anti-lock brake system with traction control and stability assist system consists of the following components:

• active brake booster with integral solenoid
• brake booster release switch
• front wheel speed sensors
• front wheel speed sensor rings
• hydraulic control unit (HCU)
• stability assist module (ECU)
• stability assist event indicator
• lateral accelerometer
• longitudinal accelerometer (4x4)
• rear wheel speed sensors
• rear wheel speed sensor rings
• steering wheel position sensor
• yaw rate sensor
• yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator
• brake pressure transducer
• traction control switch

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I suspect the abs issue is causing the speed control not to work if it happened at the same time the cruise control stopped working. When the yellow ABS light comes on, it means the ABS is dactivated. You may have a faulty accelerometer which senses acceleration and yaw (side to side lean). I have not seen a bad one but you said it is sensitive to acceleration.
I would unplug it and see what happens. The connector should have a small tab to depress so you can pull the connector out.
Here is where it is:

Accelerometer Removal and Installation

1. NOTE: The accelerometer is located under the center, rear passenger seat carpet. (I think you have to remove seat for access).
   Cut the carpeting along the perforations.

1. Disconnect the electrical connector.

1. Remove the nuts and remove the accelerometer.

Have dealer hook up tester and pull fault codes if you can't find an easy solution.
Some background info

A malfunction in the anti-lock brake system will cause the anti-lock brake control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power-assisted braking remains.

Malfunctions are indicated by the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.

The anti-lock brake system is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the anti-lock brake control module will carry out a preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a three-second illumination of the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.

During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.

Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20 km/h (12mph), the anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor for approximately one-half second. At this time, a mechanical noise may be heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.

Pedal pulsation coupled with noise while braking on loose gravel, bumps, wet or snowy roads is normal and indicates correct functioning of the anti-lock brake system.

Warning Lamp Indicator
The anti-lock brake system (ABS) uses the yellow ABS warning indicator to alert the driver of a malfunctions in the ABS.
The yellow ABS warning indicator will come on to warn the driver that the ABS has been turned off due to a symptom that exists in the ABS. Normal power assist braking remains but wheels can lock during a panic stop while the yellow ABS warning indicator is illuminated.

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Please report back, I am curious if that is what it is. Good luck

you need to have your brakes checked on the front and also have them check wheel bearing on that side. when a car sits overnight in humid conditions the brake rotors will rust over lightly, that normally is removed off of rotor after first brake application. it shouldnt do it after you keep driving. abs does make noises though when it is working, sliding, so I would pop my hood and check for abs computer. It has brake lines and electrical connection going to it. Im not saying its bad but just look at its location and see if the sound of it functioning/location seems to make it sound like it is left wheel

it would not hurt to check rear tire wear due to misalignment
cupped tires will cause a faulty bearing type noise or humming.