There's a broken circuit board, when its hot the board expands to make contact, when its cold it shrinks losing contact. understand that you may not be able to see them, but they are there.
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SOURCE: Rear a/c not blowing cold, front works fine.
probably the same problem as the '99. you probably lost too much coolant. charge with dye and check for leaks, (these things lose refrigerant normally, so you may not have a bonafide leak but check anyway) change the accumulator as a matter of course. evac the system and make sure you lose no vac over the course of 5 to 10 min. recharge the system for the proper weight (which is on the accum sticker) if you need detailed instructions let me know.
SOURCE: i own a chevy hhr 2008,this morning im getting
please make sure the vehicle is fully in park, turn the key forward to on and try removing it, while depressing the brake pedal
SOURCE: 94 lumina will not start after getting warm. will
The check engine light should be on with the engine running. The coolant temperture senser may be open at some temps the fastest way to test this is to change the senser ( it's cheap and a high failure rate part all auto parts stores will haveplenty of this high failure part in stock and they fail many ways. If the car ever overheated it's damaged or truly bad. A very good one will optimize fuel mileage so if it's suspect change it anyway as money well spent a working but wrong senser can cost alot of gas on any fuel injection car or truck, You get what you pay for in temp sensers and the brand name ones are better. All of them are suspect to be bad even when new and ohm test at temperture charts are is repair manuels. Crank sensers and cam sensers also get hot and quit they cost more are harder to change and fail more on the 3.8 motor than the 3.1 or the 3.4. Igiton modules do this too but it sounds like its been doing this awhile and modules and crank sensers don't stay half bad very long. they stop altogrther. Temp sensers can stay bad and work wrong. If you can get a scanner hooks to the car on data stream the senser may show room temp when cold but as it heats up goes up then to -34 thats open the system doesn't know that to do as the air charge temp senser doesn't agree and the system fails to start and will check as flooded. Flooring the gas and hoding it there may start it anyway. The trottle position senser were to show open thats the clear flood mode and the injectors won't fire. Tps voltage should show .5 volt les than 1 volt at idel (it'll start) and 5 volts at full throttle or nearly. if it shows with a scanner of a voltmeter on the center wire 5 volts or 0 it won't start. Coolant senser fails more often and is cheaper
SOURCE: 2008 Chevy HHR headlight will
Hi!
Try switching the headlights from Low Beam to High Beam when they cut off. This is to find out if the problem is on the Low or High Beam Circuits. They both have separate fuses and relays and are hot at all times, just controlled by the headlamp switch and the BCM. If both circuits cut off, check the Black Wire (Ground - ) on both head lights. 80% of the electrical problems on an automobile are due to a faulty Ground. Check for tight connections and broken wires.
Check the following Fuses/Relays on the engine compartment fuse box : # 63 - 10A, # 65 - 10A, # 66 - 10A, # 68 - 10A and # 31 - 10A. and Relays #71 Low Beam, #72 High Beam and #28 DRL.
If all the above checks out OK, then your BCM could be defective.
USE THIS HEADLIGHTS WIRING DIAGRAM TO TROUBLESHOOT THE CIRCUIT.
Keep me posted!
SOURCE: I have a 2006 HHR.
check your fuse pannel tor a clicker fuse. and it sounds like you have a loose wire coming from the radio or on the speaker. good luck
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