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My 2013 Kia optima I replaced the battery and it started fine,and ran well no warning lights on. When I tried to start it first time no second time it starts what could the problem be,

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So you put new battery in it, and you thought that fixxed it.
Had a light been on prior to that, that did not come on immediately? Has it come on since then?

Your second sentence ..
First time no... Did it crank over at all and just not start?
Was this the next morning? How long did you crank it, and it not start?
When it did start did it fire right up or did it take a while?
It should have developed fuel pressure right away on turning the key on.
To get the injectors signal going and the. Spark plugs firing the computer requires pulses from the cam and crank shaft. Sensor .And multiple other sensors come into play as it warms up to optimize the air fuel mix.

Cold starting issues and hard start conditions usually indicate basic tune up issues .
Old plugs or fouled plugs. Plug wires issues including damp wet or arcing wire s
Fuel delivery issued.
Dirty injectors , weak pump or clogged filter.
Vacuum leaks.
Even fuses or relays that power up the computer and other control circuits can be on the way out and fail intermittently. Poor electrical connections often escape detection
How's it doing today? Is the battery charging .Is it possible the starter was the original problem?
Looks like lot of potential problems but you can narrow it down
An Obd scan tool may help you pin it down or aborate over the course of a few more starts

Posted on Jan 03, 2017

Testimonial: "When I put the battery in there was no problem with starting it. It started like normal I let it warm up. No dashboard warning lights on all went off like normal, Never had this happen before, was thinking the battery ground wire might be lose. When I'm driving it runs great"

  • Zelda Christion
    Zelda Christion Jan 03, 2017

    "When I put the battery in there was no problem with starting it. It started like normal I let it warm up. No dashboard warning lights on all went off like normal, Never had this happen before, was thinking the battery ground wire might be lose. When I'm driving it runs great"

  • Tc Young
    Tc Young Jan 04, 2017

    The battery cable connectors must be clean and free of corrosion.
    Heat can theoretically cause electrical connections to fail if heat is the issue.
    Modern fuel injection system are not prone to vapor locking like the carbs we used to rely on.
    From my experience a starter motor that is on the way out can certainly by caused to fail due to temperature increases causing one in which the grease has dried up or the dust from the brushes has gummed up or perhaps even stubburn electrical switch contacts in the solenoid or simply worn brushes. Although I've had starters that could be unstuck by tapping them with a hammer or metal rod whiles some one turned the key or I jumpered the solenoid with the other hand, this occured as often cold as hot and may be difficult to accomplish as a diagnostic process while yours is demonstrating it's temperamental nature. Yes if you could bang on the starter once it has stopped functioning while the key is turned to start and this indeed freed it allowing it to crank it would verify the starter motors solenoid were binding and if it only refused once warmed up it would explain why when cold the issue is not present.
    Before recommending a novice beat on it (it's not a television set or juke box and your not the Fonz) or try to explain rebuilding a starter motor and solenoid ( some later model versions are not simply asembled with screws but are sealed) or simply suggest replacing the starter as a diagnostic or hail Mary expenditure ( have you priced starters lately?),
    Let me offer the next logical diagnostic approach to eliminate the wiring and or the starter solenoid. Keep in mind the vehicle must be run and warmed to full operating temperature ,until the fans turn on would be an indication but perhaps longer than necessary, and than fail to crank with the key.
    First the car should be up on stands and the starter solenoid's start wire terminal accessible. There are two wires attached to a starter solenoid the smaller one usually afast on or Spade connector simply clipped on, and the positive battery cable is the larger ring terminal held on with a nut. Some newer ones also have the alternator output wire attached with the battery cable here to charge the battery as it was convenient.
    Your aim is to apply 12 volts to the start terminal after the key has failed presumably due to engine heat causing the starter solenoid to bind, one of several potential solenoid problems but the one suspected. If it starts with the ignition on but not fully to start or simply spins with key off than the starter is fine ,but imediatly verify by trying to crank it with the key if the key works , run engine till hot and start over to prove the starter is fine but more importantly that,that there is in fact a problem with ignition switch or wires,fuse or even a starter relay, if present.
    Once more:
    HOT
    DOES NOT WORK
    WORKS MANUALY = STARTER GOOD/ CIRCUIT BAD
    DON'T WORK =VERIFICATIOM
    REPEAT SEVERAL TIMES THAN ASK ME WHAT NEXT

    I expect that the starter will not work manually and you will need to replace it. It may only be the solenoid and it may be available seperstly but you gamble on the motor lasting longer enough to not regret replacing the entire assembly as it is no longer a simple task to remove and replace a starter.
    So applying 12 volts MANUALY is not always easy either and may be near impossible with the engine hot on a front wheel drive compact car. If under $50 andknew it was tperature related and could safely jack up the car,AND SUPPORT IT ON JACK-STANDS before got under it with the tools to change it I would do the starter as a bad starter is ******* battery and could have been the problem all along.
    On the other hand I always take starters apart and try to fix them .
    I have a switch with wires and clips to clip onto the start terminal and the battery or even the hot cable on the solenoid so I can just push a button to crank the engine when it hot or while I'm up top testing other devices or doing compression tests.
    I'm not afraid of sparks ,IF I DO NOT SMELL GASOLINE, and have simply shoved wrenches, screwdrivers and metal things wires, coathangers between the two solenoid wires to spin or start cars on the side of the road or just diagnose before building my switch. Dad had one permanently wired up laying on the floor of an unreliable VW but he was feeding nine kids and starters weren't cheap. I don't know what he would have thought of my keeping a hammer in my car to beat on the starter but I was seldom late for dinner.

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