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Took oil filter and noticed a bracket loose abot 3inch wide and 6inch lonk its hanging down .can anyone tell me where the loose end goes? It has one bolt hole

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Could just be a lifting bracket left over from Factory installation? don-ohio

Posted on Jan 04, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Video on how to use this strap wrench


There are several different types of strap wrenches, the picture is what I have. Sorry I don't have a video. I use it to remove oil filter. The loose end goes through the hinge under the back end of strap. Place around oil filter, snug up by pulling loose end then the wide part of the handle bits down on the strap so you can put torque on it. Depending if your tightening or loosening, you flip the handle.
YouTube has videos, don't know if they have a video for using wrench strap? Like I said many different types of wrench straps.
strap wrench-gprzwg4xdxk5o5eqlvog24xe-4-0.jpg

Jun 28, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 97 chevy 5.7 vortec it knocks when cold but goes away when it warms up my truck is running lean which is causing a few other problems and ive done some research and im getting it could be bearings...


all of the problems you mentioned will be there when warm. bearing noise gets worse as the oil thins out and the oil pressure will be lower than normal. Collapsed lifter will indicate with a problem misfiring and will be there all the time. Piston slap will be more evident at lower than required idle rpms. Some knocks can be from loose valve seat inserts but then again that will show up as an occasional misfire and will progressively get worse. Check that the oil filter you are using has a non-return valve built into it to retain oil in the top end when stationary. The knock may be until oil pressure is built up. El cheapo filters mostly do not have the valve. check the viscosity of the oil you are using as you may have to go up a grade.
use a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. Some failing bearings (idler,water pump,alternator etc) will knock for a while until they warm up

Nov 14, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to replace oil pan on a bmw 2004 330ci


Raise engine with special tool 00 0 200 approx. 5 mm.
- Remove suction filter housing. Remove engine splash guard.
- Drain engine oil. On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Disconnect oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Release guide tube for dipstick.

Note: M52TU and M54 only.
- Detach return hose from cyclone oil separator on oil dipstick guide tube.
- Replace O-ring.
- Remove front end reinforcement.
- Detach steeling spindle from steering gear.
- Remove vane pump for power steering unit (lines remain connected).
- Disconnect plug connection to oil level sensor.
- Loosen top and unfasten bottom of left and right engine mounts.

E46 4WD only
- Remove left and right swivel bearings.
- Remove output shafts. Remove front propeller shaft.
- Remove front axle differential.
- Detach brackets for left and right control arms from engine carrier.
- Release retaining brackets for left and right stabilizer bars.
- Unfasten screw connection on front axle support and lower the front axle support.

Note: There is no need to detach the steering gear from the front axle support.

- Unfasten oil sump screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil sump.
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agent to the area around seams.

Installation:
  1. Replace gasket
  2. Install oil sump.
  3. Insert all oil sump screws.
  4. Insert screws in transmission end without preload at this stage.
  5. Tighten down screws in engine end.
  6. Tighten down screws in transmission end.

E60 Removing And Installing, Sealing Or Replacing Oil Sump (M54)

Necessary preliminary tasks. -
- Remove intake filter housing
- Remove guide tube for oil dipstick
- Lowering front axle support
- Drain off engine oil
- Disconnect plug connection to oil level sensor.

On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Detach oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Unfasten oil pan screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil pan.

Installation:
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agen to the area around seams.

Installation:

  1. Replace seal.
  2. Install oil sump.
  3. Insert all screws on transmission end, without preload at this stage.
  1. Tighten down screws on engine end.
  2. Tighten screws on transmission end.

Or take it to a dealer....

Apr 19, 2011 | BMW 330 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

THERE IS WHAT LOOKS LIKE TWO HOSES CONNECTED TO A METAL FILTER LIKE OBJECT HANGING UNDERNEATH THE CAR SPECIFICALLY UNDER THE FRONT END IN THE MIDDLE, I HAD MY BATTERY REPLACED YESTERDAY AND WONDERED IF...


i think that the trany inline filter, this need to be put back up, you will loose your trany fluid if that breaks or something pulls it out, this may have just rusted loose from its bracket, have it rehung.

Jul 13, 2010 | 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue

4 Answers

Oil leak near the oil filter and sending unit.


I am an "x" mechanic and had the same problem with my 94 jeep grand.

This is an adapter block that connects to you engine. The chrysler designer didn't leave enough room to put on an oil filter so the put a 90 deg bracket on to miss the frame.

At the end of this adapter you will see a ,large looking bolt with a star insert. This is called a torx.
I will have to look tonight but my memory is saying it is a 20x torx. The problem is the std torx socket is to long. 2-3" you only have 1-1/2" to get torx and ratchet between frame and adapter. I modified a std torx to be shorter. You insert into a 3/8 ratchet and put a small pipe on ratchet. This give more leverage. This torx bolt is very tight.

It is easer to remove from the bottom of car. Once it is loose you can remove oil filter first before doing or just leave oilf filter on the bracket. be shore to dump out oil before remounting bracket. There are two o'rings between engine and bracket. From the heat crack making the oil filter look like it is leaking. My engine starter was always wet with oil. After I replaced the o'rings it has never leaked again. I also saw oil leaking from my oil switch. I replaced it also. The chrysler dealer had the o'rings apprx $3.00. 1 large and one small for bolt I bought the oil sensor from Salvo's $15.00

Or you need to take to dealer.

Yes you are not crazy!. It is really leaking there.

Wm. Michael L

Mar 11, 2009 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Loose wire near oil filter--what's it go to?


this loose wire can you tell me the color of the wire? a lot of times it goes to the oil pressure sensor, are any of your gauges not working? if they are all working look for a terminal attachment around within that area it could be the pressure switch for the ecm that tells the enigne to shut-off if the oil pressure drops below a certain pound. hope this helps at least. good luck

Feb 26, 2009 | 2002 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

Hi there i having a great deal of trouble getting my oil sump off on my escort ive took all the bolt out but there a bracket that stoppin it from comin down


end of that bracket is another bolt....careful of oil pump drive shaft now as you take the assembly down..good luck

Dec 31, 2008 | Ford Escort Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Oil cooler seal


There are two items that can be leaking oil there. There is a gasket between the oiler cooler flange (the item attached to the engine), and the rubber gasket/seal that goes between the cooler and the flange. (the latter is the one that leaks most often as most oil change shops over tighten the oil filter).
I just replaced the gasket between the cooler and flange recently. I chose to do it quick and dirty: 1. remove oil filter 2. remove oil filter nipple (the portion you screw the filter onto) 2a. you'll need a deep well socket to get the bolt that holds the cooler tight (I believe 27mm)
2b. pull down the cooler, Grab the nipple with a pair of pliers between the flange and cooler and loosen/remove
3. remove old gasket/seal and clean surface 4. put new seal/gasket in place 5. re-seat the nipple back in. use the pliers method, just make sure you don't scar the threads where you NEED them( you don't need all of them). 6. put some gasket sealer (oil friendly) on the gasket and make sure its in place 7. tighten oil cooler onto flange with large nut and socket 8. replace oil filter and add oil as needed.
it is a tight working area, expect some scrapped knuckles, but it isn't too difficult.
good luck

Dec 06, 2008 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

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