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Where is the hex bolt located on a 2015 trail runner sle26 that allows the slide to be manually opened.

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What is code P-2015 mean on a 2995 Kia Amanti


  • Faulty Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch
  • Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch harness is open or shorted
  • Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch circuit poor electrical connection

Mar 20, 2017 | Kia Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace 2006 driver side sonata door lock actuator


REMOVE DOOR PANEL, LOWER WINDOW HALFWAY. BEHIND THE DOOR PANEL IS A METAL PLATE THAT IS THE WINDOW REGULATOR. THERE WILL BE TWO OPEN HOLES. AS U ROLL THE WINDOW DOWN LOOK IN THE HOLES FOR 2 10MM BOLTS. REMOVE THE BOLTS AND SECURE THE WINDOW. REMOVE ALL THE 10MM BOLTS AROUND HE REGULATOR.. LOOK BY THE HANDLE ON INSIDE OF THE DOOR IS A SMALL ROUND BLACK PIECE OF PLASTIC. PULL IT OUT THERE WILL BE A 8MM BOLT REMOVE IT AND SLIDE THE LOCK OUT OF THE DOOR. PULL FORWARD AND HANDLE THEN OUT. REMOVED THE WINDOW REGULATOR. REMOVE THE 3 T30 HEX BOLTS ON THE STRIKER. SLIDE THE ACTUATOR OUT AND INSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER.

Mar 09, 2013 | Hyundai Tiburon Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is error code p1004 for a 2007 chrysler 300


P1004-SHORT RUNNER VALVE CONTROL PERFORMANCE

The short runner valve actuator is bolted on the end of the intake manifold.

Hope this helps.

Dec 18, 2010 | Chrysler 300 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you remove the drivers seat in a '98 Jetta? I want to replace it. Thanks


slide the seat right forwards and you will see, inside the runners,the bolts to remove,the runners,with the seat...after the rears slide the seat right back to see the front bolts.replacement is a reversal of removal......

Oct 30, 2010 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

How can I get my Prelude door open? Nither handle works from inside or outside. I need to get the inner panel off the door to fix it but I first need to get the door open. I have a 1992 Prelude SI.


to make life easier take the seat out, then start to take inner door panel off, at least you can get to the linkage,which is hanging off.slide seat forward and undo 2 bolts on floor inside runners,then slide back and undo 2 bolts in front runners.the rest is self tappers and clips(that break easy)

May 12, 2010 | 1998 Honda Prelude

1 Answer

Trying to get diagram to change a timing belt for a 99 mercury mystique


Ford TSB 99-25-4 provides the following corrected information:
To achieve proper timing belt tension on this engine, Ford says the camshaft sprocket bolts should be loosened enough to permit the sprockets to turn freely on the camshafts. Once this has been done, rotate the crankshaft clockwise so cylinder No. 1 is at top dead center. Then, install the camshaft alignment tool in the camshaft slots to hold the cams in place.
  1. Back out the tensioner bolt four full turns and position the tensioner so the locating tab is at approximately the 4 o'clock position. Line up the hex key slot in the tensioner-adjusting washer with the pointer that is located behind the pulley.
  2. Working counterclockwise from the crank sprocket, install the timing belt.
  3. Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover.
  4. Position the hex key slot in the tensioner-adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position.p>
  5. Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm hex key.
  6. Using the hex key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab. (The pointer will move in a clockwise direction during adjustment).
  7. While holding the adjusting washer in position, torque the attaching bolt to 18 lb-ft (25 N.m).
    Note: If the pointer does not remain centered over the index line during final tightening, loosen the bolt and repeat the procedure beginning with step 4.

Sep 18, 2009 | 1999 Mercury Mystique

1 Answer

How do I remove the front seats


if you need to take the front seats out, take them out with the runners on they will have 4 or 6 bolts or torx screws or hex bolts, depending on what make of car you have, i have put seat covers on before, with seats in the car with wires and clips, ps the bolts go through the runners in to the floor of the car hope this helps.

thanks.

Aug 03, 2009 | 1995 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Rear brake pad installation 99 volkswagen passat


If you can't see diagrams(sometimes happens) let me know and I will get them to you

  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. If equipped, disconnect the brake pad wear sensor from the harness.
  3. Counterhold the lower sliding pin using a thin open-end wrench and remove the caliper-to-sliding pin hex bolt.
  4. Pivot the caliper upward or if necessary remove the upper caliper-to-sliding pin hex bolt.
  5. Using a brake caliper retraction tool, select the appropriate sized piston press arbor and install the tool onto the brake caliper. Following the tool manufacturer's recommendations, use the tool to rotate the caliper piston clockwise as it is pressed into the brake caliper housing, until it is fully retracted.
0900c152800c30b8.jpgUse a thin open-end wrench to . . . 0900c152800c30b7.jpg. . . support the caliper sliding pin when removing the caliper mounting bolt 0900c152800c30d7.jpgUse a disc brake caliper piston retracting tool that will rotate the caliper piston as it is pressed into the caliper 0900c152800c30d8.jpgThe rear caliper piston is slotted to allow a retracting tool to rotate the piston when replacing the brake padsTo install:
  1. Clean the brake caliper and all sliding surfaces. With the caliper piston pressed fully back into the caliper housing, check for leaking fluid and damaged dust boots.
  2. If equipped, install a new brake pad wear sensor in the pad if the plastic part has been worn through on the old sensor. New sensors are not required unless the wire inside the plastic part has been exposed.
  3. Lubricate the slider bolts with approved brake grease.
  4. Install the brake pads onto the bracket assembly, and then carefully lower the caliper over the caliper mount. Check and make sure that the pad springs are correctly seated.
  5. Replace all removed caliper-to-sliding pin bolts and torque to:
  6. 1990-97 Passat models: 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
  7. 1998-00 Passat models: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
  8. If equipped, connect the brake wear sensor wire to the harness. Check for a good connection as most problems with the sensor circuit are caused by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by the loop in the dust cover and the connector is held at the clips.
  9. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to:
  10. M12 x 1.5 lug bolts: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
  11. M14 x 1.5 lug bolts: 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)
Feel free to contact if you have any questions

Nov 15, 2008 | 1999 Volkswagen Passat

2 Answers

Kia Door Handle


Remove the door trim inside by loosen 3 bolt with screw driver, then pull out the door trim, after that loosen the hex.bolt (3 hex-bolt) on lock mechanism bracket, after that you can loose bolt (4 hex bolt) on handle cover. Be careful to not drop the bolt, because the gap on sliding door is too narrow. After you removing the handle assembly you can see where is the broken. You can remove the handle from cover by removing pin clips on it. To fixing the broken handle you can just using plastic glue or you can drill a small hole and put some small wire to reinforce the plastic.


Oct 16, 2008 | 2003 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Crossmember mount nuts


This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder.
Tools and Materials Required

Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred
2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum
Breaker bar, 1/2" drive
Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets
Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm
Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc.
2-lb. sledgehammer
3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool
Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal
Torsion bar tensioning tool
Penetrating oil, as required
Chassis grease, as required
High pressure thread lubricant, as required
Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired
Gloves and eye protection
Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack.

Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts.
With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground.
Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants.
Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on.
Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later.
Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set.
Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused.
Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember.
Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt.
Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one.
When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side).
Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart.
Remove the tool.
Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember.
On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember.
Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it.
Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount.
Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach.
With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar.
Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet.
Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled.
Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar.
From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble.
Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember.
Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place.
Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened.
Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt.
Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s).
Completely lower coach.
Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2004 Ford F250

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