Ford excursion cruise control will not always work
2003 model. when i hit the set button, it will not always work. sometimes it flashes on for a second when i hit the button, sometimes it will just work as it should, and sometimes it will not work at all.
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Could be any number of issues? Can you check for applicable trouble codes, relating to cruise control? Some of the national brand autostores will check codes for free.
With intermittent issues, have to do testing when problem is ongoing, or you can't find anything. Do you want to check voltage and ground circuit for your cruise control, meaning, check wire circuits using wiring diagrams?
Intermittent issues can be a pain to track.
TRY THIS Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion. [img src="file:///E:/FORD/ELECTRICAL/Speed%20Control%20Workshop%20Manual_files/SYOusenfileani_caut.gif" border="0"> WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes: * 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
* 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
* 4 Flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
Return ignition switch to the OFF position
I had it replaced by ford dealer free of charge CHECK FACTORY RECALLS USING YOUR VIN if u don't know how send it to me and i will check it for you it is located at the inner side of the driver door frame.
There are two main components of the cruise control system: the controller and the servo.
The controller integrates all the inputs and tells the servo how far to actuate the throttle plates. Normally, there is no way you can service this item, so if you trace a problem to the controller, you'll have to buy a new one. A bad controller probably will require a service manual for specific diagnostics. You'll also need a scan tool to access any computer trouble codes to boot.
The servo does the work of moving the throttle blades to speed up the vehicle. Conventional systems are actuated by manifold vacuum. Check the linkage from the servo to the throttle to ensure it's properly hooked up and not binding or sticky. Inside the servo is a diaphragm that moves to pull on the linkage. Some older systems, used on cars or trucks that don't have throttle-position sensors, may have a rod that moves in and out of a magnetic coil to tell the controller the throttle position. There are also two electrically operated solenoid valves. One valve admits vacuum to the diaphragm chamber to add more throttle. The other bleeds air back into the chamber to reduce throttle. Normally, they will never be open at the same time, so if one is sticky or leaking, cruise control operation will be erratic at best. Check for leakage with a handheld vacuum pump. A leaky valve may benefit from a quick shot of silicone spray.
Diesels and some late models may use a servo that is completely electrical. These usually are mounted on the fender well or firewall, and are connected to the throttle by a second throttle cable. Other than keeping the cable lubricated and properly adjusted, there's not much to fiddle with. As always, check the shop manual for specifics on your vehicle.