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What is the torque setting on the nut on the half shaft once you put a new one in ? the driver side.

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I have a 1992 Camry, I torqued it a little over 150 ft/lb then there is a cover on the nut with a cotter pin going through. working fine, you may want to check about your car.

Posted on Jan 01, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

daves944
  • 1050 Answers

SOURCE: new half shaft shutters upon accelerating

Pretty cut and dry, replace the poorly remanufactured shaft. The symptom is classic bad inboard joint.

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

fingaz22
  • 1068 Answers

SOURCE: need torque settings on new upper ball joints

there's no torque setting that you go by because there aftermarket!

the factory ones are riveted in so you won't find it any where.

but when i do them and do them . witch is alot. i go by the feel of my air gun. if you are using just hand tools then i would use a 3/8 ratchet and tighten it as much as you can with that set-up , then get a 1/2 set-up and turn another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

if you need a number for a torque spec then depending on the grade bolt that came with the replacement ball joint. a 10mm bolt thats a 8.8 grade will only do 33 ft. lbs. before it will strech and then break. so no more than that! 8.8 is the most common for automotive grade hardware...

good luck man

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

ministock48
  • 258 Answers

SOURCE: what is the torque spec for a frt wheel bearing

according to autowaresgroup.com the proper torque is 159 foot pounds

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks for the info "

  • 312 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 Impala axle shaft torque spec

118 ft lbs

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

  • 2926 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Millenia S CV axle nut torque?

174-231 ft lbs. I would stay closer to 174.

Posted on Jan 27, 2010

Testimonial: "THanks for the quick response!!!"

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1 Answer

How do I replace a CV joint boot on the drivers side front on my 1991 Chevy cavalier rs? Front wheel drive 4 cylinder?


There are thee ways to do this. The first, easiest, but least reliable way is to use split boot repair kit. This allows you to cut the old boot off, clean the joint as best you can, install new grease, and bolt the split boot into place and clamp it. These boots have a higher-than-average failure rate however. The next ways require jacking up the drivers side of the car, remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. Then remove the hub nut that secures the half-shaft to the wheel bearing. Using a crowbar or other suitable tool, you must pry the inner CV joint out of the transaxle and maneuver the half-shaft out of the vehicle. You must take care not to separate the inner CV joint as it is easily damaged if overextended. You may have to separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm to remove this shaft as it is the shorter of the two and has less space to work for removal. Once you have the half-shaft out, there are two options - repair or replace. Repair requires removal of the joint from the half-shaft assembly, and it can be difficult for someone with no experience. The easier option is to replace the entire half-shaft with a re-manufactured one. The cost is not much more than that for the repair parts, plus you don't have to worry about dirt, grit and debris in the joint damaging it since it is already fully sealed. Replacement is the reverse of removal. You simply insert the shaft thru the wheel bearing opening and into the transaxle. You must "pop" the inner joint into place to latch it, otherwise it will cause damage by leaking and binding. You will feel it lock in when you do it. The last thing that is critical is that the hub nut has a specific torque requirement. Too much or too little torque will cause the wheel bearing to fail very quickly. So use a reliable torque wrench set at the correct setting. There is no "feel" for the correct tightness on this nut.

Oct 12, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace front differential seal on 2007 4.7 toyota tundra


This is not easy....You will need air tools ,spray penetrate,seal remover,hammer,and Jack stands..Seal installation tool,.All proper tools..safety glasses.correct seal replacement.,new lock nut...Set park brake,block rear wheels,raise vehicle front and safely place jack stands under each side of lower control arms..Spray lube front drive shaft mounting hardware and lock nut that holds Yoke on front diff..Let it set to penetrate..put vehicle in neutral..Mark shaft to yoke location and direction perfectly because it has to be installed in perfect timing exactly how it was removed..,Remove drive shaft..Remove lock nut and yoke from front diff...You will have to hold yoke while removing lock nut because it will spin..PROTECT HANDS..( These can be VERY DIFFICULT to remove..Sometimes they have to be heated..You will need a yoke removal tool if it doesn't tap off with hammer...Mark exactly the yoke to spline location before removal..You can take close up photos however Mark it also to be sure...If you re-install it wrong it will vibrate terribly..Once yoke is removed You can remove seal.Make sure the new seal is correct...CAREFULLY..DO NOT DAMAGE SPLINES WHILE REMOVING..Sometimes even the perfect seal remover will damage splines..So cover it to protect spline threads..Clean all areas once seal is removed..Make sure nothing is pitted or damaged...Install new seal with installation tool..Lightly,perfectly tap it flush with diff..You can use old seal to install new seal if you don't have installation tool But only a pro should do that...Once in place Line drive shaft yoke with your marks and tap it on ..Use NEW LOCKNUT AND TORQUE IT TO SPEC..Install drive shaft as marked..torque to spec..Lower truck and check fluid..Complete..

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1 Answer

How to remove a CV joint on 1996 Honda Accord


If you have a bad CV joint, it is usually easier and cheaper to replace the axle half-shaft.

loosen lug nuts
Jack up car
insert jack stand
remove wheel.
pry off wheel hub cover or tap it out by rotating brake disk and tapping outward with a punch (or even a screw driver).
This will expose a large axle nut which will usually have a crimp lock.
Look in the center for a part of the nut bent into a groove in the axle.
tap it out so the nut can turn with a punch and hammer.
The nut is on with a lot of torque. It can be removed by having a friend step on the brakes while you loosen it with a breaker bar and socket, or you can use an air-wrench to spin it off.
loosen thew nut until it extends past the end of the axle threads and tap it with a mallot. (this will result in the axle coming loose and moving freely back and forth in the hub)
remove the nut and the washer(s) taking notice of how they go back on.
Now you have to determine if the axle can be compressed enough to come out of the hub without disassembling any of the suspension. Some can - most can't.
Likely next step is to remove the safety cotter pin, and nut from the outer tie-rod end, then loosen it with a "pickle fork" and hammer or air-tool. (this will let the strut assembly swing out far enough to free the axle. On some cars the lower ball joint may have to be removed (this is usually a plate with three bolt/nuts. to get the axle shaft out of the hub.
At this point you have an axle half-shaft loose from the hub, but still firmly attached to the transmission near the inner CV joint.

Look carefully at the inner CV joint. Is there any sign of transmission oil/fluid around it? If so, plan on replacing the inner CV joint seal before you re-assemble. They are cheap, so it does not hurt to replace it anyway.

You have to get something behind the inner CV joint housing and pop the half shaft out of the transmission. There is a spring-clip around the inner half-shaft splines. When you pop the shaft out, it compresses the spring clip and lets it pop out of the retaining groove it rides in.
I usually try to get something like a piece of steel plumbing pipe against the back of the inner CV housing and them pop it good with a heavy hammer. One or two pops usually gets it to slide out, and then be prepared for a mess as transmission oil runs out the axle hole.

Now you have removed the axle half-shaft. You can go further and remove/replace the CV joints on the axle, but it is seldom worth it. A new half-shaft with both CV joints and new boots already installed is usually about the same price as one CV joint and new boots, and they are a real pain and will take a lot of time and patience to replace.

Reverse for installation.
Pop new shaft into transmission (you can usually do this by hand with a good push.
Re-insert into hub and leave loose.
re-attach any suspension parts, torque to proper setting, and re-install new cotter pins (never reuse the old ones).

Replace the washers over the axle
Install the axle nut.
**** Torque to specification - DO NOT GUESS. ***
Use punch to lock nut into axle groove (new axle should come with new axle nut)
Tap hub cover back on (a very thin coat of grease helps)
re-install wheel and loosely tighten lug nuts.
jack up car - remove jack stand and lower car.
Torque lug nuts (this is also important - improper lug nut torque can lead to a warped disk brake hub or worse)
Install hub cap if so equipped.

Done.


The axle half-shaft is held on one side by a large axle-nut and on the transmission side by a spring-clip that rides in a groove (it just pops in and out).

The whole job can be done in an hour or so if you have the proper tools, but do not attempt this if you don't have a big socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar. A torqu wrench capable of reading up to 200 ft lbs and one that can accurately set the torque on any suspension pieces you need to loosen.

If you don't need to loosen or remove any suspension you need not worry about alignment afterwards, and if you only need to loosen a tie rod end, you should still be fine as long as you don't change any of the "length adjusting" threads.

If you do need to separate a tie-rod end you will need the tool for that (pickle fork and heavy hammer).

If you have to remove or loosen any of the things that keep your wheels aligned you will need an alignment after you finish, but the job can usually be done while avoiding this.

Autozone will loan you most of the tools you need if you don't have them.

If you have never done this, I highly recommend you search You Tube for some videos and watch them first. This really is not hard.

Oct 19, 2014 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

2004 Acura Mdx replace front axel


buy a complete aftermarket Half Shaft drive shaft. comes pre assembled. arrange for a wheel alignment at closest shop to you .first take off center cap of side to be replaced, that gold nut there is tight but with a long breaker bar and your weight it will unscrew, even with that dent in, borrow these tools from auto store loosen 1 turn, loosen wheel lugs jack up car till tires off ground lift by frame so wheels hang, block rear tires get a coat hanger or bailing wire to hang brake caliper. remove wheel place under vehicle under door. remove entire brake caliper,i take off by allen headscrews put shoes in clean place and hang caliper then remove caliper mount with bolts on back . with a ball joint remover (the big one)$25 pop the lower ball joint of the suspension , and with a flat prybar pry the half shaft out of the side of the engine pull it from the large round part right next to the motor not the shaft ,pry some more it will slide out remove entire half shaft remove the large bolt at this time and work it off from both sides, replace oil seal where half shaft goes in at this time is just pulls out and pushes in no tools, now put the new half shaft in maybe both sides not sure how tight this model is, you will need a heavy mallet and a piece of wood to smack that shaft in the last inch, depending on which side mine was on passenger side put the wood against the shaft and smack the wood as to not damage end of shaft , when it goes in, it will, replace all screws and put that gold, new one, nut on as far as you can. fit the bottom ball screw back in its seat and tighten and replace cotter pin remount caliper frame and caliper check all bolts tighten , replace wheel on car and hand tighten lug nuts drop car down thighten wheel and tighten that gold nut tight then tighten some more with that breaker bar and your weight , stand on it a little , not all your weight, make the dent back in that of that gold nut at the keyway so it wont come off.
Rotor replacement can be done at point where half shaft has just been removed form motor. 4 screws on back side of rotor can be accessed and removed . remove entire rotor set and then separate rotor from frame. I recommend real OEM rotors and scratch them before mounting for best results , replace all shoes. you should be done and saved a 1000 dollars your welcome

Nov 07, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to change the driver's side wheel bearing assembly, is there a torque setting on the nut?


yes
  1. Install a new wheel drive shaft nut. Insert a drift or a flat-bladed tool into the caliper and the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
  2. Tighten the axle nut to 159 ft. lbs. (215 Nm).

Jul 24, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

How do I rgerplabe how do I replace a front wheel bearing?


TO REMOVE FRONT WHEEL BEARING.YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS.MAKE SURE SITTING ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.BEFORE RAISING VECHICLE OFF GROUND YOU NEED TO LOOSEN HALF SHAFT AXLE NUT JUST A LITTLE BECAUSE WHEEL IN THE AIR HARD TO LOOSEN AXLE NUT WHEN YOU HAVE HOLD THE WHEEL WHILE LOOSEN THE AXLE NUT WHICH IS TORQUE ON ABOUT 200 FT LBS.USING A SIX POINT AXLE SOCKET SOCKET SIZE COULD BE 34 OR 35 METRIC 1/2 INCH SOCKET.YOU NEED 1/2 INCH BREAKER BAR.ONCE YOU LOOSEN AXLE NUT A LITTLE THEN RAISE VECHICLE THEN REMOVE WHEEL.THEN FINISHING REMOVING AXLE NUT AND WASHER.THEN REMOVE THE CALIPER FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE AND SUPPORT IT ASIDE USING A PIECE OF WIRE.REMOVE BRAKE ROTOR.THEN REMOVE THE 3 HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY BOLTS. USE A SWIVEL SOCKET GOING TO BE HARD TO REACH SPOT WITH A REGULAR SOCKET. REMOVE THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY.REMOVE HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY. PUT EVERY THING BACK VISA VERSA. TORQUE HUB BEARING BOLTS TO 70 FT LBS. TORQUE AXLE NUT 284 FT LBS IF YOUR CAR IS 1998 MODEL AND TORQUE AXLE NUT 100 FT LBS FOR THE 1999 TO 2001 MODELS.THE WHEEL HAS TO BE ON THE GROUND JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP IT FROM TURNING.DONT LET ALL THE CAR WEIGHT DOWN UNTIL YOU HAVE TORQUE WHEEL TO THE RIGHT TORQUE.LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

Torque spec for 2002 daewoo leganza for half shaft nut


THE LEGANZA MODELS TIGHTEN THE HALF SHAFT NUT TO 111 - 155 FT LBS .LOOSEN THE NUT RETIGHTEN TO 37 FT LBS.RETIGHTEN AN ADDITIONAL 60 DEGREES.STAKE THE NUT WITH A PUNCH AND HAMMER.THE NUT WILL NOT BE LOCKED IN PLACE UNTIL THE NUT HAS BEEN STAKED.

May 13, 2010 | 2002 Daewoo Leganza

2 Answers

I cant get the axle out of the front diff what is holding it in 2001 dodge durango


here is a diagram on how to get the front pinion seal out and it does mention how to get the axle loose. please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
  2. Remove both half shafts.
  3. Mark propeller shaft and pinion flange for installation reference.
  4. Remove front propeller shaft.
  5. Rotate pinion gear three to four times, to verify pinion rotates smoothly.
  6. Record pinion flange rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench for installation reference.
  7. Hold flange with Holder 6719 and four bolts and washers.
  8. Remove pinion nut.
  9. Remove flange with Remover C-452.
  10. Remove pinion seal with a pry tool.
    67189-dako-g28.gif Removing the companion flange
    67189-dako-g25.gif Measuring pinion rotating torque
    67189-dako-g27.gif Pinion seal installer
    67189-dako-g26.gif Tightening the pinion nut
To install:
  1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
  2. Install seal with Installer C-3972-A and Handle C-4171.
  3. Install pinion flange onto the pinion with Installer C-3718 and holder.
  4. Hold pinion flange with Holder 6719A.
  5. Install new pinion nut and tighten nut until there is zero bearing end-play.

    CAUTION Do not exceed the minimum tightening torque when installing the companion flange at this point. Damage to the collapsible spacer or bearings may result.
  6. Tighten pinion nut to 271 Nm (200 ft. lbs.).

    CAUTION Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed.
  7. Record pinion flange rotating torque, with a torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal plus an additional 0.56 Nm (5 inch lbs.).
  8. If rotating torque is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 Nm (5 ft. lbs.) increments until rotating torque is achieved.

    CAUTION If maximum tightening torque is reached prior to reaching the required rotating torque, the collapsible spacer may have been damaged. Replace the collapsible spacer.
  9. Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.
  10. Install half shafts.

Apr 16, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

The seal on the front axle on the passenger side is leaking.is it hard to replace myself.


here is a diagram on how to replace the front pinion seal.
please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
  2. Remove both half shafts.
  3. Mark propeller shaft and pinion flange for installation reference.
  4. Remove front propeller shaft.
  5. Rotate pinion gear three to four times, to verify pinion rotates smoothly.
  6. Record pinion flange rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench for installation reference.
  7. Hold flange with Holder 6719 and four bolts and washers.
  8. Remove pinion nut.
  9. Remove flange with Remover C-452.
  10. Remove pinion seal with a pry tool.
    67189-dako-g28.gif Removing the companion flange
    67189-dako-g25.gif Measuring pinion rotating torque
    67189-dako-g27.gif Pinion seal installer
    67189-dako-g26.gif Tightening the pinion nut
To install:
  1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
  2. Install seal with Installer C-3972-A and Handle C-4171.
  3. Install pinion flange onto the pinion with Installer C-3718 and holder.
  4. Hold pinion flange with Holder 6719A.
  5. Install new pinion nut and tighten nut until there is zero bearing end-play.

    CAUTION Do not exceed the minimum tightening torque when installing the companion flange at this point. Damage to the collapsible spacer or bearings may result.
  6. Tighten pinion nut to 271 Nm (200 ft. lbs.).

    CAUTION Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed.
  7. Record pinion flange rotating torque, with a torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal plus an additional 0.56 Nm (5 inch lbs.).
  8. If rotating torque is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 Nm (5 ft. lbs.) increments until rotating torque is achieved.

    CAUTION If maximum tightening torque is reached prior to reaching the required rotating torque, the collapsible spacer may have been damaged. Replace the collapsible spacer.
  9. Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.
  10. Install half shafts.

Apr 12, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

New half shaft shutters upon accelerating


Pretty cut and dry, replace the poorly remanufactured shaft. The symptom is classic bad inboard joint.

Mar 30, 2009 | 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan

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