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I have a 66 miliamp draw on JB power fuse #7 in the underhood box. Is this excessive?

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Not really , there say 50 milliamps as a rule of thumb . What does fuse #7 power ? Are all the doors shut , did you let the control modules on the vehicle power down ? You would know it if something was on , probably have over 100 milliamps or more .

Posted on Dec 30, 2016


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What can be done about the draining of the battery by the jb power fuse on the 2002 grand Cherokee right hand drive

What ? jb power fuse ? Why don't you say what jb is ? I'm assuming you mean junction box . Were not mind readers ! Regardless you have a parasitic draw on one of the circuits in the junction box , Hook up a amp meter between the negative battery post an negative battery cable . Shouldn't have more then 50 milliamp draw . Pull the fuse's one at a time till the drain goes away . Look at a wiring diagram for that circuit to see what all is on it . isolate an fix . Videos on youtube showing how to trouble shoot ! How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy

Aug 27, 2016 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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What is wrong when I pull JB Power #15 50 amp fuse the drain g

2003 jeep GC, or WJ jeep, it is..?
there are no 50a fuses in any JB,
there are just 4 in the PDC. engine bay.
so, JB is wrong, input to me.
ill assume F15 is correct, and not F3/7/12 in PDC
F15 feeds JB via a pink wire. (pk-wt)
this main F15 feed JB , F5,7,8,9 fuse in cab.

so pull fuse 5 to 9 there and the one that ends the drain
is the load that is leaking, (phantom drains)
easy, huh, just 4 fuse to pull.
Cab box, only. called JB on all jeeps.
jb fuse 5 is radio.
jb fuse 7 is HVAC zone control (heat?) skim mod. & auto head lamp sensor & BCM memory, (yes lots)
jb fuse 8 is (12 courtesy lamps , intrusion module(export) and VICS, vehicle info center(memory)
jb fuse 9, front12vdc power outlets (cig ports modern) Cell Phone arked there?

or login at and see all that, in the wiring pages.

Jan 17, 2015 | 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Underhood fusebox fuse #13 50 amp what is it for

The large MAXI fuses in the engine compartment fuse block are the MAIN fuses. They supply voltage to several other fuses or circuits.

MAXI Fuse #13 in your 1996 Ford Ranger is supposed to be a 30 Amp fuse (not a 50 Amp) according to the power distribution diagrams as well as the fuse block detail diagram. This fuse supplies voltage to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) power relay and to the oxygen sensor heater circuits.

Please note that it is NORMAL for this fuse to cause a draw on the battery during vehicle operation and also after engine shut down. The OBD-2 oxygen sensor heater circuit monitors run after engine shut down and key off. This can take up to 45 minutes to complete. After the O2 heater monitor has run, the PCM will go into sleep mode.

When the PCM goes into sleep mode, the battery draw from this fuse will be reduced greatly. If you are performing "ignition-off-draw" tests trying to figure out why the battery keeps going dead, it is best to use an ammeter that has a 1 or 2 amp scale. You should set-up for the test using a shunt bar. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour for all of the computer systems in the vehicle to go into sleep mode, then open the shunt. Your computer memory, radio pre-sets, clock, etc. will continue to draw without ever shutting completely off. Any draw under 300 Milliamps is considered "acceptable". It is my experience that most vehicles have an ignition-off-draw of somewhere near 150 Milliamps.

The underhood fuse box diagram can be found on page 314 in the 1996 Ford Ranger Owner's Manual.
If you do not have an Owner's Manual, you can get a PDF version HERE (direct link)

May 15, 2012 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

2 Answers

Significant battery draw on my 2007 Honda Odyssey until I remove the fuse labeled "Back Up, ACC". 40A square type fuse. what circuit does this fuse protect?

Fuse #15 "BACK UP/ACC" (40 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box
protects the circuits leading to Fuse #7 "BACKUP" (7.5 Amp) in the Underhood
Fuse/Relay Box and also fuses (#5 "RADIO" (10 Amp), #6 "INTR LIGHT" (7.5 Amp),
#7 "BACK UP" (7.5 Amp), #8 "not used", and #9 "FR ACC SOCKET (10 Amp)
in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box.
To further narrow down the source of your draw, pull each of these fuses one at a time.
No, that was not a "typo" There are 2 fuses marked "BACK UP" and are both 7.5 Amp and one is
in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and the other is in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box. (I checked this 3 times just to make sure.)

Jan 27, 2011 | 2007 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

I have a slow battery drain on a 2006 Jeep Liberty. Pulling either fuse #34 from the dash fuse box or #7 under the hood (labeled JB Power) will eliminate the drain. According to the owner's manual #34...

Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
  1. Electrical items left on.
  2. Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
  3. Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
  4. An internally shorted generator.
  5. Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.

Jul 13, 2010 | 2006 Jeep Liberty

2 Answers

No brake lights,have replaced all bulbs and brake light switch is good what left

you could just have abrake light switch problem located on your brake pedal. i have ran across a bad connection at the fuse box.

1. Check power in and out of the dash fuse box. Power comes in through connector JB-10 and goes out of JB-05 and JB-07, all White/Green wires. The connectors plug into the back of the dash fuse box. If there is power in and no power out, the problem is in the dash fuse box.

Nov 07, 2009 | Mazda 626 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Can you pls tell me where the fuse box is

Fuses are located either in the engine compartment or passenger compartment fuse and relay panels. If a fuse blows, a single component or single circuit will not function properly. Excessive current draw is what causes a fuse to blow. Observing the condition of the fuse will provide insight as to what caused this to occur.


Fig. The underhood fuse box is located adjacent to the battery


Fig. View of the interior fuse box; open the fuse panel cover to gain access to the interior fuse box

Here can find information about Wiring & Electrical Diagram

Hope helped (remember rated this help) good luck.

Oct 20, 2009 | 1997 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Buick century 2003, slow drain overnight, wont start in morning

To know for sure you need to do parasitic draw testing ! Not looking for a magical fix on here . has anyone ran into any issues that may cause drain, like glove box light switch etc,???? In my thrity years of repairing vehicles have seen a lot of thing's cause this problem .Back in the 80's when i first started at chevy dealer saw glove boxes stuff full ,to the point light would stay on . These day's more like a module not powering down when it's suppose to. Hooking up a amp meter between the neg. battery post and neg. cable an checking amp draw. If it's over 80 miliamps you have a draw on the electrical system. Pulling fuse's till the draw goes away . find what all that fues powers and isolate the different circuits till the draw goes away . That's kind of the long way now a days . There is a much easier way ,voltage drop testing accross the fuse's .
The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test

How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy

Jul 31, 2017 | 2002 Buick Century

2 Answers

KIa Sedona Battery Problem

mike , if you have and can use a digital multi meter with amps , disconnect the negitive battery cable , set your multi meter to dc amps , connect it inbtween the battery neg cable and the battery neg post on battery , we are looking for a draw of over 30 miliamps , that is acceptable . keep the car doors closed while doing this test , under the hood find the fuse box and start pulling fuses 1 at a time , note any decrease in draw , lets say you hook up meter and see 300 miliamp draw , not acceptable , pull a fuse and wait for a moment , if no decrease reinstall that fuse and go to the next , if by pulling all fuses you haven't found the problem circuit , the altenator is a good sourse of drain sometimes , disconnect all the wires to the altenator , note any change . remember 30 miliamps is acceptable on a kia. post results when done .

cheers , you found the problem circuit , will you continue diagnostics or call it fixed ?

Jan 06, 2009 | 2004 Kia Sedona

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