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I have a 66 miliamp draw on JB power fuse #7 in the underhood box. Is this excessive?

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Not really , there say 50 milliamps as a rule of thumb . What does fuse #7 power ? Are all the doors shut , did you let the control modules on the vehicle power down ? You would know it if something was on , probably have over 100 milliamps or more .

Posted on Dec 30, 2016

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What can be done about the draining of the battery by the jb power fuse on the 2002 grand Cherokee right hand drive


What ? jb power fuse ? Why don't you say what jb is ? I'm assuming you mean junction box . Were not mind readers ! Regardless you have a parasitic draw on one of the circuits in the junction box , Hook up a amp meter between the negative battery post an negative battery cable . Shouldn't have more then 50 milliamp draw . Pull the fuse's one at a time till the drain goes away . Look at a wiring diagram for that circuit to see what all is on it . isolate an fix . Videos on youtube showing how to trouble shoot ! How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy

Aug 27, 2016 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

What is wrong when I pull JB Power #15 50 amp fuse the drain g


2003 jeep GC, or WJ jeep, it is..?
there are no 50a fuses in any JB,
there are just 4 in the PDC. engine bay.
so, JB is wrong, input to me.
ill assume F15 is correct, and not F3/7/12 in PDC
F15 feeds JB via a pink wire. (pk-wt)
this main F15 feed JB , F5,7,8,9 fuse in cab.

so pull fuse 5 to 9 there and the one that ends the drain
is the load that is leaking, (phantom drains)
easy, huh, just 4 fuse to pull.
Cab box, only. called JB on all jeeps.
jb fuse 5 is radio.
jb fuse 7 is HVAC zone control (heat?) skim mod. & auto head lamp sensor & BCM memory, (yes lots)
jb fuse 8 is (12 courtesy lamps , intrusion module(export) and VICS, vehicle info center(memory)
jb fuse 9, front12vdc power outlets (cig ports modern) Cell Phone arked there?

or login at alldata.com and see all that, in the wiring pages.

Jan 17, 2015 | 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Underhood fusebox fuse #13 50 amp what is it for


The large MAXI fuses in the engine compartment fuse block are the MAIN fuses. They supply voltage to several other fuses or circuits.

MAXI Fuse #13 in your 1996 Ford Ranger is supposed to be a 30 Amp fuse (not a 50 Amp) according to the power distribution diagrams as well as the fuse block detail diagram. This fuse supplies voltage to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) power relay and to the oxygen sensor heater circuits.

Please note that it is NORMAL for this fuse to cause a draw on the battery during vehicle operation and also after engine shut down. The OBD-2 oxygen sensor heater circuit monitors run after engine shut down and key off. This can take up to 45 minutes to complete. After the O2 heater monitor has run, the PCM will go into sleep mode.

When the PCM goes into sleep mode, the battery draw from this fuse will be reduced greatly. If you are performing "ignition-off-draw" tests trying to figure out why the battery keeps going dead, it is best to use an ammeter that has a 1 or 2 amp scale. You should set-up for the test using a shunt bar. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour for all of the computer systems in the vehicle to go into sleep mode, then open the shunt. Your computer memory, radio pre-sets, clock, etc. will continue to draw without ever shutting completely off. Any draw under 300 Milliamps is considered "acceptable". It is my experience that most vehicles have an ignition-off-draw of somewhere near 150 Milliamps.

The underhood fuse box diagram can be found on page 314 in the 1996 Ford Ranger Owner's Manual.
If you do not have an Owner's Manual, you can get a PDF version HERE (direct link)

May 15, 2012 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

I have a draw from my battery how can I find it? I have put a test light in between the neg. post and the cable and the light stays on.I have pull all the fuses one at a time and the light dose not go...


Could be a ground problem; I send you a drain test to check it, you will need a digital volt and ohm meter to perform a battery draw test.

WARNING: Do not attempt this test on a lead-acid battery that has recently been recharged. Explosive gases may cause personal injury. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to the meter, do not crank the engine or operate accessories that draw more than 10A.

NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.

Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 milliamps (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 40 minutes . Current drains can be tested with the following procedure:

NOTE:
Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.
Use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable.

Typically, a drain of approximately one amp can be attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp, or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts may be located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading will fall to an acceptable level. If the drain is still not located after checking all the fuses, it may be due to the generator.

To accurately test the drain on a battery, an in-line digital ammeter must be used. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules.

When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) relearns its fuel trim. The vehicle may need to be driven to relearn the strategy.

Make sure the junction box(es)/fuse panel(s) is accessible without turning on interior or underhood lights. Drive the vehicle at least 5 minutes and over 48 km/h (30 mph) to turn on and activate the vehicle systems.
Allow the vehicle to sit with the key OFF for at least 40 minutes to allow modules to time out/power down.

Connect a fused jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire.

NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between the negative battery post and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, the entire procedure must be repeated. Connect the tester between the negative battery cable and the post. The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.

NOTE:
If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another jack, the jumper wire must be reinstalled to avoid breaking continuity.
Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.
No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.

Remove the jumper wire. If the draw is found to be excessive, remove fuses from the central junction box one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you are finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed and install one fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse, etc.

If the current draw is still excessive, remove the fuses from the battery junction box (BJB) one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you have finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed. After removal of all of the fuses, install one fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse until each circuit has been tested. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located.

Check the wiring schematic in the wiring diagram for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the junction boxes. This could find in the Service Manual or Haynes books. If the current draw is still excessive, disconnect these circuits until the draw is found. Also disconnect the generator electrical connections if the draw can not be located. The generator may be internally shorted, causing the current drain.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

Nov 18, 2011 | 2004 GMC Envoy

2 Answers

Significant battery draw on my 2007 Honda Odyssey until I remove the fuse labeled "Back Up, ACC". 40A square type fuse. what circuit does this fuse protect?


Fuse #15 "BACK UP/ACC" (40 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box
protects the circuits leading to Fuse #7 "BACKUP" (7.5 Amp) in the Underhood
Fuse/Relay Box and also fuses (#5 "RADIO" (10 Amp), #6 "INTR LIGHT" (7.5 Amp),
#7 "BACK UP" (7.5 Amp), #8 "not used", and #9 "FR ACC SOCKET (10 Amp)
in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box.
To further narrow down the source of your draw, pull each of these fuses one at a time.
No, that was not a "typo" There are 2 fuses marked "BACK UP" and are both 7.5 Amp and one is
in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and the other is in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box. (I checked this 3 times just to make sure.)

Jan 27, 2011 | 2007 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

I have a slow battery drain on a 2006 Jeep Liberty. Pulling either fuse #34 from the dash fuse box or #7 under the hood (labeled JB Power) will eliminate the drain. According to the owner's manual #34...


Hi
Welcome
Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
  1. Electrical items left on.
  2. Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
  3. Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
  4. An internally shorted generator.
  5. Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE Module Time Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.

Jul 13, 2010 | 2006 Jeep Liberty

2 Answers

No brake lights,have replaced all bulbs and brake light switch is good what left


you could just have abrake light switch problem located on your brake pedal. i have ran across a bad connection at the fuse box.

1. Check power in and out of the dash fuse box. Power comes in through connector JB-10 and goes out of JB-05 and JB-07, all White/Green wires. The connectors plug into the back of the dash fuse box. If there is power in and no power out, the problem is in the dash fuse box.

Nov 07, 2009 | Mazda 626 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Can you pls tell me where the fuse box is


Fuses are located either in the engine compartment or passenger compartment fuse and relay panels. If a fuse blows, a single component or single circuit will not function properly. Excessive current draw is what causes a fuse to blow. Observing the condition of the fuse will provide insight as to what caused this to occur.

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Fig. The underhood fuse box is located adjacent to the battery

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Fig. View of the interior fuse box; open the fuse panel cover to gain access to the interior fuse box

Here can find information about Wiring & Electrical Diagram

Hope helped (remember rated this help) good luck.


Oct 20, 2009 | 1997 Honda Civic

2 Answers

KIa Sedona Battery Problem


mike , if you have and can use a digital multi meter with amps , disconnect the negitive battery cable , set your multi meter to dc amps , connect it inbtween the battery neg cable and the battery neg post on battery , we are looking for a draw of over 30 miliamps , that is acceptable . keep the car doors closed while doing this test , under the hood find the fuse box and start pulling fuses 1 at a time , note any decrease in draw , lets say you hook up meter and see 300 miliamp draw , not acceptable , pull a fuse and wait for a moment , if no decrease reinstall that fuse and go to the next , if by pulling all fuses you haven't found the problem circuit , the altenator is a good sourse of drain sometimes , disconnect all the wires to the altenator , note any change . remember 30 miliamps is acceptable on a kia. post results when done .


cheers , you found the problem circuit , will you continue diagnostics or call it fixed ?

Jan 06, 2009 | 2004 Kia Sedona

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