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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First test the coils:--
Remove the large wire from the center of the coil by pulling it straight out of the coil. Remove the retaining nuts and all the wires attached to the side terminals on the coil as well.Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case. Note the reading on the meter. This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms on your Ford coil.Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the large wire was removed. Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil. Note the resistance reading on the ohmmeter. Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms for your Ford.Replace the coil with a new one if the readings are outside either of these ranges, as that would indicate a defective coil. If the readings are within range, reinstall the wires and retaining nuts on the side posts, being sure that they go back on in the same position they were in before you removed them.If the coils checked ok, then it can be spark plug itself faulty,
Posted on Sep 23, 2011
The primary side of an ignition coil is not intended to produce a spark and it isn't wise to try. A test lamp or voltmeter can be used to check for battery voltage on the +side and for continuity through the winding. If the winding has continuity and a voltage is present then current will flow if the contact points or the trigger (optical, hall effect or inductive) and amplifier is working correctly. A 1990 model probably uses a trigger and an ignition amplifier
Posted on Dec 30, 2016
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