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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Battery goes flat overnight
disconect the neg batt cable and jump it with a test light , the light should light up and then dim, if it doesn't you have a circuit staying on start by removing fuses one at a time, then the alternator wire last, good luck
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
No, the regulator really has nothing to do with anything that could discharge the battery when the ignition is off. The only way that's possible is if one of the diodes in the regulator was shorted, and if that was the case, the battery would never get charged.
And yes, it's bolted right onto the alternator.
Finding the cause of a current leak like that is a PITA. I usually start by hooking up an ammeter inline with the battery (ignition turned OFF!) and pulling fuses out of the fuse block one by one. When the amperage draw drops significantly, I know I found the fuse that operates the circuit that's draining my battery.
If none of the fuses do it, then there's something else connected before the fuse box that's doing it. Usually that means a poorly installed stereo, subwoofer amp, or alarm system.
If you can't find it that way, then you have to get a copy of the electrical diagram and eliminate one circuit at a time until you find the bad one. It's not terribly hard, but it is time consuming and you have to be proficient at reading schematics.
If that sounds too hard, an automotive electrical specialist shop is your best bet. Take it to the specialist, not the joe blow mechanic shop down the street. You'll pay more per hour than a general mechanic shop, but they'll fix it, correctly, in half the number of hours. I can tell you from experience in the field that many many excellent mechanics are still intimidated by electrical problems.
Posted on Dec 31, 2010
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FIRST THING, START THE TRUCK, PLACE A VOLTMETER ON THE BATTERY. VOLTAGE SHOULD READ BETWEEN 13.90 & 14.80. IF THAT IS OK, THERE MUST BE A BATTERY DRAIN. TO CHECK FOR A BATTERY DRAIN, TURN OFF ALL SWITCHES, CLOSE GLOVE COMPARTMENT, MAKE SURE THE LIGHT IN THERE IS GOING OUT. OPEN THE HOOD, CLOSE ALL OF THE DOORS, MAKE SURE ALL OF THE COURTESY LIGHTS ARE GOING OUT.DISCONNECT THE NEG. BATTERY CABLE. CONNECT ONE END OF A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT TO THE NEG. POST OF THE BATTERY. FASTEN THE OTHER END TO A METAL PART OF THE MOTOR. IF THE LIGHT COMES ON THERE IS A BATTERY DRAIN. NO LIGHT, NO DRAIN. IF THE LIGHT IS ON, YOU NEED TO UNPLUG THE FUSIBLE LINKS FROM THE POSITIVE CABLE ONE AT A TIME TO ISOLATE THE DRAIN. ALSO, DISCONNECT THE ALTERNATOR, & SEE IF THE TEST LIGHT GOES OUT.BAD ALTERNATORS CAN CHARGE THE BATTERY WHEN RUNNING, & DRAIN THE BATTERY WHEN STOPPED.
Posted on Jan 28, 2011
the voltage regulator is normally built in to the alternator, so i would have expected this to have cured the problem.
it appears to me that something else is causing the regulator to continually blow and this in turn is overcharging the battery, causing it to fail.
the only thing i can think of to check is the earth leads going from the battery to the engine and the body of the car. make sure they are tight and fixed to clean rust free metal.
i would then get the system checked by a specialist auto electrician as it will save you money in the long run
Posted on Feb 25, 2011
probably is the regulator.....it is located inside of alternator.best bet replace entire altternator and be done with it.
Posted on Feb 26, 2011
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