I need to know if I have to purge my vehicle after I change my heater hose??
I have a 2005 Saab 95 stationwagon. I had to change my heater hose and add coolant/water because it was really low. My car had run for a lil while to warm up, but when we went to go check it, the air was still blowing ice cold. It deff should've been very warm by that time. I was told I may have to burp, (or purge), it but I don't know how to do it. Can someone help??
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: I need to know if I have to purge my vehicle after I...
When the water/engine is cool, you need to open the system from the highest point possible.
Some cars have a little bleeder screw that you can open a little....others you just have to remove the radiator cap.
once open, start the engine and watch for air to escape.
be ready to close the bleeder screw or reinstall the radiator cap once no air escapes and only water starts flowing out from the opening.
As the water temp rises, so will the water.
Some cars have electronic controlled valves that open and close the waters path to the heater....others have a vacuum line operating the valve.
Make sure any electrical or vacuum connections have been properly reinstalled.
If you had air in the cooling system, you would also have a higher chance at overheating.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This indicates that a part of the EVAP control system is no longer fuctioning correctly. The EVAP system consists of many parts, including (but not limited to) the gas cap, fuel lines, carbon canister, purge valve, and other hoses. The (EVAP) emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle's fuel system. Fuel vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal canister for storage. Later, when the engine is running a purge control valve opens allowing intake vacuum to siphon the fuel vapors into the engine.
EVAP emission canister purge is contolled by a valve which allows engine vacuum to pull stored fuel vapors from fuel tank into the engine to be burned, rather than be vented to atmosphere. A vacuum switch is used to detect when flow exists. If the PCM commands purge and sees that the switch is closed (indicating no detected purge flow) P0441 is set.
Causes: A code P0441 could mean one or more of the following has happened: * Bad vacuum switch * Broken or damaged EVAP line or canister * Open in PCM purge command circuit * Open or short in Voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid * Faulty purge solenoid * Restriction in EVAP solenoid, line or canister * Corrosion or resistance in purge connector * Bad PCM
Possible Solutions: With a P0441 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try: * Common Chrysler fix - Replace Leak Detection Pump / LDP * Repair damaged EVAP lines or canister * Repair open or short in voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid * Repair open in PCM purge command circuit * Replace purge Solenoid * Replace vacuum switch * Repair restriction in Evap line or canister or soleniod * Repair resistance in purge connector * Replace PCM
its a play on words.....when you say flush,you mean pump trans oil in and let it run to clean out any gunk inside the box.SAME AS emptying and refilling with a filter change.(when you flush a cooling system you fix a garden hose to the lower heater hose and remove the rad cap,thats a real flush.......reverse flow.)
Have you had your mass air meter checked or replaced? This is the unit attached to the air intake hose behind your air filter. It senses the air temperature, speed, density, etc... and adjusts the fuel/air ratio to keep the vehicle running at "peak" performance. Also, check your TPS (throttle positioning sensor) it can also cause the problem you speak of. The TPS adjusts your engine speed/idle etc. and also compensates for hot/cold changes etc. This is roughly a $35.00 part and in most cases usually an easy fix.
I assume you know that the only circulation happening unti lthe thermostat opens at its nominal temperature is through the heater core if in use.
If peering into the radiator opening, you will not see more than the most minimal movement until the thermostat opens.
You may have an airlock in the system and it could be in the heater lines so if you have done a coolant change or had the system open, you need to purge the system of air.
If you have no radiator cap like many newer vehicles, this isn't as easy to accomplish.
You will have to pass through several cycles of warmup and cool-down and each time refill the reservoir to the marked level with coolant mix.
During this, you will have to have the heater control set to warm the interior so that the coolant is forced to circulate throughout the whole system.
If you are not getting heat now, it's because you have an air lock in the system. sometimes it can be difficult to burp the system. try turning the heater on high in the defrost position. run your vehicle with the rad cap off and keep the engine running at about 1500 rpm. That should give the waterpump enough momentom to purge the air through the engine. check around the heater hose area and around the thermostat area for any bleeder screws ( sometimes these vehicles will have 2 or 3 for ease of purging the air). hope this helps and if you need any other info please don't hesitate to write.