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I have got a 03 reg matiz 0.8 wont start no spark no fuel crank it you can smell fuel but no leaks can only read ecu with arlem box un pluged

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: my 94 300zx tt wont start changed ecu cas and ptu

check timing, see if belt may have slipped out of timing, and need pressure tester to test pressure where the fuel goes into the fuel filter. check for vaccuum leaks.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Hyundai Elantra not starting

check fuel pump

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: nissan sentra wont start but cranks

no spark mean a crankshaft sensor damaged

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

saailer
  • 1868 Answers

SOURCE: 98 s10 cranks but wont start. Checked for spark and fuel press,

Yes It does. There are (or should be) toggle switches to reset security alarm. However, the ignition hot lead passes through the security relay contacts. This relay may be the culprit, in that if it does not pull when ignition key is turned; The start relay will not pull disabling fuel pump and spark.


FixYaWIZ...............saailer

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Not starting. No spark. Crank angle sensor?

you my also have a selenoid problem,may sit on passenger side fenderwall.

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

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1 Answer

My 1997 dodge dakota v6 3.9 auto 4x4 wont start replaced the ecu computer it will crank but wont start


Check for spark, and for fuel at the manifold. The ECU will not prevent you from cranking, but it does control fuel and spark.

Jan 10, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a connector comming from the fuse relay center in the bunch of whires that is not connected and is a red wire which i know is a hot wire what do i do? connector is small and black comming out o


confusing, 1990 , CADDY a TOYOTA Escalade?
CHECK ALL FUSES in BOTH FUSE BOXES. first.

all cars have huge options, and one harness.
so vast numbers of connectors are just there. ignore them.
seems... seems in science is no good, we work in absolutes.
or better valid ranges. (as a pilot says, "in the envelope")
ill try to answer both cars, the relic toy and 2000 CAD


we fix cars by diagnosis.
the first is to tell the helper what is wrong.
it dont start. (right?
and you check both fuse boxes, for blown fuses, right?
do you have spark? y/n? on all spark plugs.? y/n
if you have spark does spray in test fuel start engine
even for 3 seconds>? a key test.
yes, then you have low fuel pressure.
no, bad engine. (or you lied about spark , lol)

now fuel pressure.
the ECU can cut fuel and pump if it sees spark go bad
this prevents crash and burn,.like as seen on TV.
connect a scan tool is there DTC 340,355 being thrown cranking 5 seconds. yes, bad crank/cam sensors. or RPM is 0 cranking
bad ckp. senor.

so, rule 2, the ECU, many not, (READ FSM) run pump
until it is cranking
so you check for 12vdc at the pump cranking,
ok i got 12v
i then check fuel pressure with a real gauge.
it see 0psi, bad pump. see 10 psi bad pump or stuck open fuel
40PSI normal there is a range, but ask.
pressure reg. see 65PSI, fuel pressure reg stuck closes or return line blocked.
no guessing ,simple tests tools $80 total.

so does test fuel run engine> do that.
ever do a tune up?
ever check spark plug tips for wet or dry , after a failed crankup?
dry, no fuel. add some.
wet ,flooding.. crank using super secret WOT.


ok a direct quote from the FSM TOY.
  1. Using a jumper wire, short terminals FP and +B of the check connector.<< this is the diagnostic port.
  2. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do NOT start the car.
  3. The fuel pressure should read 38-44 psi (265-304 kPa).
  4. If the pressure is too high, the pressure regulator is probably defective. If it is too low, check for the following:
    1. Fuel hoses and connections for leaks or restrictions.
    2. Defective fuel pump.
    3. Clogged fuel filter.
    4. Defective pressure regulator.
now the direct quote for CAD FSM.
what engine,there are many?
rule 1 , 2000
ever scan the ECU/PCM for error cranking or must we do this the hardway.
hard:
key off
pressure gauge on rule rail
not started engine.
60-66 psi is normal. (books shows scan too activate)

the FSM shows the leak down test too, at this port.
it also says using CAD scan tool command on the fuel pump.
says tool only allows 2 seconds run time,
but you can check it cranking or cranking then key
off see how fast 60psi drops.
there are many pump tests. and the leak down rate
and injector leak down test.
all this requires a fuel pressure gauge
and reading the tests on alldata.com or buy the full FSM from CAD.

Im sure the CAD only has pump power (12v) cranking and running
and running it drops about 10psi and rises at high altitude.
they wouldn't need

PUMP operation rules are complex.
this is all hard coded in the PCM brain this logic.
most cars are,
if sparks good, and not W.O.T cranking and cmp and CKP are
happen run pump and inject.
if not , cut fuel.
some cars cut the pump after 2 seconds running, its hard coded logic. if spark is bad.
many mech dont know this. but the only variace ive ever seen is
some cars do make fuel pressure. just key on, for 3 seconds.
mostly older cars.
my guess you posted in the Toyota section?

Dec 29, 2013 | 1990 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Cold start engine flooding when cold put insids let it warm and it will start


how cold out?, no country or state , told, so can't guess. www is big place.
ever tune it up , this decade? do the 60k mile service points yet?
running old fuel is bad, and even summer fuel just hates cold.

if tuned up,?
try fresh fuel.
try a new ECT , the ECT is the device that tells eCU
its VERY cold outside, (non stated)
then the ECU uses fuel tables and volatility rules to start all cars
in fridge climates. (pure magic)
IN FACT EFI does this in amazing ways..... un like any carb ever made.
what engine, size. I6, V6, or V8?

if engine is good (compression good, times all cyl)
then its weak spark (tune up is 99% factory here)
or bad fueling.
only tests can find the cause, guessing will be hard.
here are some flooding reasons.
1: bad spark parts. or timed wrong.
2: why too high fuel pressure.
3: ECT reading -39F all the time. (its bad)
4: fuel pressure reg, bad, and pressure is 60psi (way too high)
5: injectors leaking, or clogged. (yes, clogged) ask why !
6: in limphome mode.
its a 1995 and may not have obd2 ECU,
so you my have to do the ECU flashing lights test to see if ECU is
happy or unhappy. got stored DTC codes?

Dec 10, 2013 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Carcar dosent start


no starts.
cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.

ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)

5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.

this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp


Example 2.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
or no?
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.






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Nov 29, 2013 | 1996 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

I have a 1992 Honda civic lx with a 1.5 four cylinder, and Ive replaced the ignition switch the fuel pump relay and the fueled pump itself however, the fuel pump still doesn't prime when I turn the key...


no start , crank perfectly
so , got spark?
the ECU has programming (ROM) and in fact kills all fueling with no spark , (even if it thinks there is no spark, even if spark is ok)
all ECU use a way to read back spark quality, (ALL){LAWS}
how honda does it in code, i don't know , see C R O M E forum)
turn the key over means nothing to me.?? sorry, it doent/
try saying what postion? cranking? or just keyon.
now some more EFI rules.
The EFI (some) do not activate the pump relay until cranking.
some do just key on for 3 seconds, read the FSM, its free.
need a link to the free manual? read the ECU logic on that.?
and prime has a special meaning, it means purge air,
its not for fuel. some system send a fast prime pulse. to clear air from the pressure lines, this plus does not inject.
that is how EFI works,

the flow
1: key on, ECU sends prime pulse, (air purge)
2: some ecu, run pump for 3 seconds, and pressure hits 35psi? RTM.
3: all ecu activate pump cranking and running.
4: now check pressure. !" 36 psi FSM stated spec"
5: now crank, if the ECU sees no spark errors, it injects
6: if the ECU sees WOT. it stops injection to clear a flood, cranking.
those rules cover most ECU made.

honda this year has a special feature called,
Fuel Cut-Off Control'
if this messes up, it i can cut fuel
does this help?
even better is this site, (has all the facts..)
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=810101

Oct 07, 2013 | 1992 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Ok guys I have a 97 lhs the fuel pump went bad replaced it car ran great again but now it wont start turns over have replaced the fuel filter and the coil pack and still it wont start im stumped please...


this is not unique to chrysler, at all, its EFI.
all EFI works alike , the shapes change to fool the non tech.

i dont know about you, but in my shop
i check fuel pressure and you found it at zero
then put in a new pump and didnt check pressure.
why would you do that? after all it was zero.
and you do that and its still zero. then find a bad wire /connector
in the fuel pump power feed or the fuel pump relay.
or ? a inertial cut out sw, or rollover switch. (i said generic)
now rule 2: if spark is bad, the ECU cuts fuel,
BY DESIGN. that dont mean spark really is bad, but does mean
the ECU can not SEE spark, or that the Tachmeter line is dead.
All ECU monitor spark 1 way or the other, and if that fails.
there WILL BE NO INJECTION period.
use your scan too to see DTCs while cranking and dead RPM cranking for 5 seconds, release key and look for crank or cam
sensors errors, key key on for 1min to see them pop up.

your are stumped because you are not troubleshooting, only guessing. and will make you broke fast.
here at the simple tests, in the proper order.
1: compression on all cylinders. if all are horrid.
the cam timing is way off. no motor will run like this.
2: spark check for spark. ! at all spark plugs, not just one.
3: make sure the ECU is happy about spark, RPM moves cranking , etc.
if spark tips are dry at this moment test fuel can be used.
does it start now then stall as the the test fuel is consumed.?
4: check for injection.
do the injectors click , do all of then click , cranking>?
if all fail, i can assure you the ECU is CUTTING FUEL!!!
if one dont click , then run a NOID lamp test in this injector
and make sure the coil reads near 10 ohms not infinity.
5b: you can do an injector balance test.
cranking, see that the pressure drops, as you crank.
Ill not cover this , as its a SOP proc, in all EFI books published.
but take to bank, can witness the drop in pressure and know the injector does in fact inject.
that way or by looking at fuel soaked spark tips.

the injectors can fail in many a way, they are fuel cooled.
A:shorted coil, open coil
B: ecu driver dead.
C: injector clogged or leaking (leaking causes flooding)
the injector has inside 10 micron screens. tiny,
d: bad fuel. cant burn or clog s screens.

you are now totally confused (above) or are un-stumped.

if you dont understand EFI at all , then lets go back to 1920.
this works too, on all otto cycle engines
1: compression, good, time number of cyclinders.
at spec. all equal, most 150psi to 200 is typical today.
2: got spark times all cycliners.(oh, yes, timing right)
3: over fueling or under.?

that is it, its and air pump , if it can pump air, it's hopeless.

the 3 steps work , every time. the tests are easy and are documented for 90 years, now.

Oct 02, 2013 | 1997 Chrysler LHS

1 Answer

2002 chrysler van wont start changed battery dry gasdo to cold temp cranks but wont start smell gas


SMELL LIKE FLOODING BUT CHECK AROUND FOR FUEL LEAKS UNDER THE HOOD AROUND ENGINE COMPARTMENT WHERE FUEL LINES ARE AND CHECK UNDER THE VECHICLE FROM FRONT TO THE BACK WHERE FUEL LINES GOES TO FUEL TANK.LOOK FOR GAS DRIPPING.BEST TO SCAN VECHICLE WITH A SCANNER.MANY THINGS WILL KEEP IT FROM CRANKING UP.CHECK IGNITION FUSE MAKE SURE COIL GETTING POWER.IF ALL IS GOOD YOU REPLACED SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES HAVE VECHICLE THAT WAY YOU WONT SPEND A WHOLE LOT OF MONEY BUYING A LOT OF NEW PARTS.

Jan 13, 2011 | Chrysler Town & Country Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2000 volvo v70. no start.


probley a loose connetion on batter or a short in wire or try checking spark pluges and ground wires even the fuse boxs

Jul 01, 2010 | 2000 Volvo V70

1 Answer

Hi we have a 1993 econoline 5ltr will not start


have you changed the spark plugs or cleaned with heat i would change them with new if you can afford it and be 4 putting them in i would crank engine over a few times then take a comparison reading ..if u cant do a reading then i would put several drops of oil in each cylinder put new spark plugs in and try again O when cranking over hold gas pedal all the way down and yes temp sensor can fluid if bad

Mar 10, 2010 | 1994 Ford Econoline

3 Answers

"Cranks, but won't start". Replaced fuel pump, CKP, ICM & nothing


If the engine cranks over normally when you attempt to start you car, but the engine does not start, the problem may be NO FUEL, NO SPARK or NO COMPRESSION. The engine needs adequate fuel pressure, a properly timed spark and normal compression to start.


1) To find why the engine won't start, remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body, push the throttle open and spray a small amount of aerosol starting fluid into the engine. Crank the engine. If it has spark and compression but NO FUEL, it will start and run a few seconds before dying. If it does NOT start, it probably has NO SPARK.

2)Another method to check for spark is to pull a spark plug wire off of a spark plug (if it has plug wires, coil-on-plug ignitions do not) and place the open end of the plug wire near a metal surface on the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for a spark. DO NOT hold the wire while doing this as it can shock you. If you see a spark, the problem is not spark, but most likely NO FUEL or NO COMPRESSION. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the IGNITION CIRCUIT.

3)Proper fuel pressure is critical for fuel injected engines to start and run. You should hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank buzz for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on (no buzz means the pump is not running and the engine is not getting fuel). You can smell the tailpipe for gasoline vapors after cranking the engine. If you smell gas, the problem is likely not fuel but NO SPARK. You can also remove the plastic cap and press the schraeder valve test fitting on the fuel rail to see if there is any fuel pressure to the engine (not a very accurate test because fuel pressure must be at a certain level for the engine to start, for that you need a gauge). Even so, no fuel at the fuel rail would tell you fuel is not getting to the engine..

Aug 27, 2009 | Chevrolet Camaro Cars & Trucks

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