Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
Remove all four wheels. Put them on axle stands. Locate the caliper bleeding screws, spray them with penetrating oil, and attempt to loosen them. If they snap off or strip, stop at once and summon the aid of a professional. Then, if possible, retighten all bleeder screws with care.
If it's safe to proceed, check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. ?Add fresh fluid if it's lower than the marked "full" point. Use the specific type of fluid recommended in the owner's manual because there are several different kinds and not all of them play?well together. During brake bleeding, the master-cylinder cap should be left unscrewed but still in place atop the reservoir.
: Each brake must be bled in the correct sequence. The general format is to bleed the brake most distant from the master cylinder first, but some cars require a different order. That information is available in the factory manual or from your dealer's service department.
Fit one end of a piece of clear tubing tightly over the bleeder screw and put the other end into a catch container. A ?plastic 20-ounce soda bottle works well here. To discourage air from returning to the system through an open bleeder screw, hang the catch container well above the caliper.
With the car's engine off, have your able assistant pump the brake pedal for several strokes until he or she notices resistance underfoot. The assistant should shout "Pressure!" when a firm pedal is achieved. (You may also use whatever safe-word you and your companion have worked out from earlier encounters.)
While the assistant maintains pressure on the pedal, open the bleeder screw a small amount. Fluid will pass through the clear tube, and the pedal will begin dropping toward the floor.
Before the pedal reaches the floor, the assistant must yell "Floor!" Quickly close the bleeder screw ?when you hear that warning. Look under the hood and recheck the reservoir's fluid level; add brake fluid if necessary.
Repeat steps seven through nine at least five times until the stream of fluid flowing through the clear tubing is free of air bubbles.
Repeat steps seven through ten at the remaining three brake locations in proper sequence.
While the assistant applies full effort to the brake pedal followed by an abrupt release of that effort, observe the motion of the fluid in the master-cylinder reservoir. If there is a substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid returning to the reservoir indicates a properly bled brake system.
Double-check that all bleeder screws are tight before reinstalling the car's wheels. Failure to complete this step will likely result in an unplanned trip to a medieval barber.
Posted on Dec 28, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No brakes after repair??
if you replaced the master cylinder then it is important to get the air out of this first. by slackening one union at a time and keeping the reservoir topped up to the top get someone to push the brake pedal down slowly while you slacken each pipe a small amount tightening the pipe on the down stroke. when you are satisfied there is no air in the master cylinder proceed as follows starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder after a few pumps you shoud get a good jet of fluid coming out of the bleed nipple if you dont then there must be a leak drawing air check all pipe unions in difficult cases you may need a pressure bleeder at no point in the process allow the brake fluid to run low. try this first and let me know
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
SOURCE: Brakes won't bleed on ford
Sounds to me like the proportioning valve might be tripped. Try opening the bleeder screws at all wheels and have an assistant stomp on the brake pedal (all the way to the floor) and hold the pedal down while you close all the bleeder screws. Continue with normal bleeding procedures. Stomping the pedal with all bleeders open equalizes the pressures and resets the proportioning valve, allowing the fluid to flow to all four wheels again.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
i try to help you, firts refill brake fluid container,open purge valve in one wheel front only,wait few minutes when drops fluid, close this valve and open other wheel, same procedure, finally repeat this in each 4 wheels
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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Bleeding The Brake System Bleeding When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air enters the lines causing spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system to ensure all air is purged.
Always begin bleeding the brake system from the furthest wheel cylinder or caliper from the master cylinder; the right rear.
NOTE: The right side of the vehicle is the passenger side. The sides of the vehicle are determined from the driver's perspective. This reference is taken from sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward.
Maintain a full reservoir during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, or from an open container, no matter how clean it is. Always use brake fluid from a new, sealed container. The front and rear reservoir will drain as the front or rear brakes are bled.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
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