Question about 1994 Pontiac Grand Am
Honestly it could be dozens of things.
Your best bet is to have a qualified mechanic check it out.
With any luck, it is something as simple as a harness connector not plugged back in, but on the flip side, it could be engine/head damage from the blown gasket.
Posted on Dec 28, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Are you sure it needs a head gasket? These are common for just having leaking intake gaskets and that is alot easier and cheaper to fix.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
Sounds like the classic hot starter problem.However have the battery and altenator checked for appropriate level of charging
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
SOURCE: bent valves
the timing chain is not correctly installed. you never just crank it over. After you install it, turn it by hand without the spark plugs in..... 2 revolutions and check the timing marks are where they should be. if you feel anything hit or it stops turning back off and figure out why, do not force it. it should turn easy.
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
Sorry to inform you of the bad news but the white smoke is engine coolant burning off and the rough running condition is also associated with coolant leaking into the combustion chambers.This will be a head gasket repair, basically a head job where you will need to machine the heads down and install new gaskets from the heads up.Get back to me if you have any more questions, thanks and I hope I could help!!!
Posted on Apr 11, 2010
well, you can do a compression test, but that is tough to diagnose as you have valve seats that could not be sealing,and piston rings also. The best i can do is this, 1) are you loosing coolant ? 2) Is there coolant in the oil (oil over full mark, oil a light brown milky look ? 3) pull the spark plugs and keep track what cylinder they came from, are any plugs real clean compared to the rest? regular plugs should be a light brown paper bag in color,if they are darker it is because of carbon deposits etc... But a cylinder that has a coolant leak will burn like a steam cleaner which results in a plug that looks brand new out of the box compared to the rest. Just because your tail pipe spits water out of it, it does not mean a bad headgasket. that is just condensation of cold getting hot air blown on it just like when you first turn defrosters on and your window fogs up for a minute.
Posted on Jan 14, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 28, 2016 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am
Aug 12, 2011 | 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
Apr 08, 2011 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
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