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The driver's side cylinders are number: 1-3-5-7 starting from the front.
The passenger side is numbered: 2-4-6-8.
If you have all the wires off and do not know where any of the go, you have to find top dead center on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder. After that is accomplished you can check timing tab to see if it lines up with the line in the pulley just to make sure. Do not use the timing tab reference to the pulley only because it also will line up top dead center of the #6 also. Make sure there is compression in the #1 cylinder and make sure you line up the mark on the timing tab on the timing cover with the mark on the pulley.
Going CLOCKWISE around the distributor cap and starting where the ignition rotor is pointing, put on the cap and remember which tower the rotor is pointing. That tower is for #1. After all the wires are installed, the timing should be good enough to start the engine, after which the timing should be set with the appropriate tool.
first -for it to record a fault the car has to be run for some time --15 minutes or 50 miles because intermittent faults are not always recorded
as an example consider this
on your phone you have a pin number
now if you press the incorrect numbers 2 times nothing happens and you can start again next day
( in the car it is like you pressing the numbers 2 times = no code)
however press the incorrect number 3 or more times , you need a PUK code to get back in
( in the car pressing the wrong number too many times = to a code now being reported)
carefully record when it stalls ( at lights with the foot on the brake), changing down ratios when slowing down) surging on acceleration--rpm reading is critical or deceleration --road speed and engine rpm correlation
fuel level situation when it occurs ( full , partially full or close to empty)
from you statement, I would suggest that you put a can of quality injector cleaner in the tank on filling for a couple of fills as it indicates an injector/s problem and that will not record a code unless a cylinder misfires for a set period of time
it is easier to do the simple things first then have the codes read by an accredited service shop that has experience on your make of car
code p0441 refers to evaporative emission EVAP system-incorrect flow detected===causes hose connections--intake leak---EVAP canister purge valve Po144 refers to the same fault and causes Po446 refers to EVAP system--vent control-circuit malfunction===causes --wiring---EVAP canister purge valve---ECM In all cases codes the canister purge valve gets a mention and then the ECM. I would take it back and ask that the canister purge valve be changed or even ask for a new canister as there are occasions when filling the tank to the filler hole will induce fuel into the canister causing it to malfunction.
Possible fault according to your input could be dry points or fault connectivity within the cluster. Try to look for dry solder joints on the sensors which give the input, or clean the connectors using dirt cleaners. As the condition improved after reassembly it cannot be a failure but a fault joint in the electronics. I request you take your time to redo the earlier work with more patience, use a lens to detect any loose connection, if possible use a multimeter to test the continutiy.Good Luck.
The part number I mentioned was the local numbers used in the GCC areas. I later understood that I need to get the 'export part number' in order to order the part from USA. Since the part is not going to be available in UAE for the next at least 5-6 weeks, my workshop will find the 'export part number' and then courier it to UAE from USA. Once the part arrives, it would be fixed and the problem will be solved. Many thanks for the follow-up.