Question about 1994 Pontiac Grand Am
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Get a Chilton's book on the car. It will take you thru the whole job, and give you the torque specs for putting it back together. You will need a torque wrench, foot pounds, and a good socket set.
Posted on May 04, 2009
White smoke out of the exhaust is one indication that the head gasket is blown. Another is to start the car and check the oil on the dipstick. If it's frothy or looks like a milkshake, this is another indication of a blown head gasket. The milky appearance indicates that coolant is in your engine, caused by a bad head gasket. If none of these symptoms occur, then the problem lies elsewhere. Hope this answers your question and feel free to post back with any other concerns or questions. Thank you.
Posted on May 23, 2009
looks like there is special sequence to reassemble and tightening, a quick note replace any bolts that have two punch marks.tighten as follows: x x x x x 10 4 2 6 8 x x x x x 7 5 1 3 9 torque all down to 15 ft lbs torque to 30 ft lbs plus 90 degrees. Good luck!
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
Are sure? If so you will have to remove the head to repair it. Don't drive it or you could destroy other parts of the vehicle as coolant will leak into your oil and get into let's say your crank shaft bearings. Pull out the dipstick and check the color of your oil to see if it is milky in color. If it is then this is a sure sign of a BHG (blown head gasket) and will have to be repaired. If your oil is fine get back to me for more troubleshooting.
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
I don't remember ever seeing a Jeep that did not have an electric fan as a supplement to the mechanical one. The electric one should come on when the A/C is engaged. Jeep radiators are far smaller than they should be due to ground clearance issues. The only way to make them work is to enhance air flow through them by using electric fans. (or adding an extra row of cooling cores such as in the special tow package). When the vehicle is moving there is enough air flow created by that to eliminate the need for fans altogether, but you have to stop sometime!
Your a/c compressor adds to engine loading (why it pulls rpm down) When at idle with a/c on, the engine "thinks" it's going up-hill and produces more heat. The heat needs to be scrubbed from the system or it can and will overheat.
Make sure that the clutch fan is engaging. It spins free when cold but should lock up after it gets hot. Add an electric fan to the system...check with several scrapyards and see of any Jeeps like yours have one and take it.(some electric fans are on the drivers side and some are directly in front of the mechanical one) If equipped, there is wiring for it in the car. If necessary you can add one either inside or outside the radiator and operate it by way of a switch and relay or just a switch. (there are aftermarket ones that are "slim line) and are designed to fit between the radiator and the front grille) You could also add an external transmission cooler...in doing that, it will take some of the heat load off the radiator. Also make sure that the new radiator has the same number of core rows as the old one did....some shops mistakenly put ones with less cores in when replacing due to cost. In a system with a marginal design this can become critical. (most radiators come with one two three and even four rows)
Once the problem has been solved, don't forget to put the 195 t stat back in or the engine controls won't work properly.
Posted on May 18, 2010
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Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
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