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Swivel centering spring separated from vacuum head. How to reinstall?

Square sprung plunger with roller wheel which runs on the rotator cam surface.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: back cam will not rotate

oops sounds like you had the cam in the wrong place and bent a valve or two unless u mixed the cam caps and have them in the wrong spot that will bind the cam and lock it down by the way that is a dodge engine same as a neon

Posted on May 06, 2009

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1 Answer

Adjust rocker arms on 1990 2.9 ford


this is from the AutoZone web site.

2.9L Engine
No periodic valve lash adjustments are necessary on this engine. The engine utilizes a hydraulic valvetrain to automatically maintain proper valve lash. However, some earlier models have an adjusting screw on the rocker arm, which is used when assembling the engine to properly preload the lifter. If the engine has been disassembled, and the valve train parts were not kept in order, or there is an audible sound from the rocker arms while the engine is running, perform the adjusment procedure below.
The following procedure should be performed on a cold engine.
  1. On the cylinder to be adjusted, position the cams so that the tappets are in the base circle area.
  2. Loosen the adjusting screws until a distinct lash between the roller arm pad and the valve tip can be noticed.

The plunger of the hydraulic tappet should now be fully extended under the load of the internal spring.
  1. Carefully screw in the adjustment screws until the roller arms slightly touch the valves.
  2. To achieve the normal working position of the plunger, screw in the adjusting screw 1 1 / 2 turns, equivalent to 2mm.


  3. here is the site address. scroll down the page & you will see your engine size - 2.9
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Feb 06, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed te head on my Mitsubishi colt 2800 TDI, when I put the head back all timing marks were aligned properly, ie crankshaft and camshaft, I did not check ful pump timing, will this be aligned cor


Was the pump timing Mark linger up as well ? Usually if you align the crank , cam , and fuel pump you don't ususlly have a drama, since you didn't check the pump I would say it would have sprung back on the cam and springs inside the pump and would be out a few teeth, you will need to recheck the timing, you may also need to re time the pump as well, I'm assuming it a VE pump! If you don't check you will probably won't start or will run very rough, hope this helps

Mar 29, 2014 | 1997 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I have an 85 corvette with the problem of acceleration. It idles really good but it won't accelerate. It only pops and cracks. I put a hydrolic roller cam. Please help if anyone knows my problem.


It's possible that when you installed the roller cam, you didn't properly align the cam rotation with the crankshaft (off by one gear tooth); or when you reinstalled the distributor, the same error may have occurred. Check your ignition timing on No. 1 cylinder at Top Dead Center to see if the rotor is roughly aligned with No. 1 plug wire on distributor cap.

Sep 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I would like to know the intake and exhaust specs to adjust a solid roller set up on a 383 stroke with 202 heads.


You need to contact the cam manufacturer to get those numbers. If you need to get it fired up you could set the intakes at .016 and exhausts at .018 to begin with but without knowing what cam, that's only a ball park number. Numbers also depend on if you are running iron or aluminum heads as the expansion rates are different. After setting the lash, rotate the engine by hand and check the valve springs for any sign of binding. Also check to make sure the push rods have adequate clearance and aren't rubbing on the through holes in the heads.

Jul 17, 2011 | Chevrolet Camaro Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Steering wheel changes


Here is the simple steps to change the old steering wheel and install the new one.

Remove the Original Steering Wheel

1.Read instructions that come with the steering wheel, and gather the following tools: screwdriver, pliers and a puller.
2.Point wheels straight ahead.
3.Disconnect battery or pull horn fuse before removing the old wheel. This prevents the horn from shorting out or blowing during installation.
4.Remove the horn mechanism by doing one or more of the following steps: Press down on the horn cap or ring and turn; remove the emblem cap from its snapped-in position by grabbing it and pulling it toward you or prying it loose; or if the horn ring is secured by screws that are concealed in the rear side of the wheel spokes, use a screwdriver to remove the screws and the ring.
5.Remove horn wire or spring-loaded metal plunger from plastic housing by either pulling straight out on the metal plunger or, on most models, by twisting the plastic sleeve to the left and then pulling out. Cut the wire off the plastic sleeve and keep the sleeve for later use.
6.Remove the shaft-nut retainer clip, if it is present, and keep for later use. Remove the shaft nut, which holds the wheel to the shaft.
7.Mark the shaft at the twelve o'clock position so that you will know where to position the top of the new wheel.
8.Insert a conventional puller into the two tapped holes which appear in the hub of the old wheel and pull off the steering shaft.
9.Remove the original wheel.

Installing the New Steering Wheel

1.Place the small tubular metal sleeve down over the steering shaft.
2.Position hub on splined shaft, making certain that the shaft is properly positioned using the mark you made in step 7. You may have to rotate the plastic horn contact tube slightly to align it with the appropriate hole through the hub.
3.Insert plastic sleeve and spring from step 5 without wire into plastic horn housing. If the plastic sleeve extends above the top bolt surface of the custom hub, cut down the sleeve so that it is 1/8-inch below the top of the hub. Remove sleeve.
4.Insert through the plastic sleeve the wire lead that was supplied in the wheel kit. One end will not pass through the sleeve. This bell-shaped end will go into the horn contact housing. Insert the sleeve and wire into the housing and lock into position.
5.Route wire around the hub from the ten o'clock position to about the two o'clock position to properly align wheel. Position post cover and wheel on hub. Make certain that the wire lead passes through the appropriate holes in the two o'clock position. Using the three shoulder bolts provided, fasten the hub, post cover and wheel together, but do not tighten.
6.Check wheel for proper positioning. If correct, reinstall the shaft nut from step 6 and tighten. Reinstall shaft-nut retainer clip. If the retainer does not fit into the groove on the shaft, tighten the nut until it will fit as originally located.
7.Remove shoulder bolts and reinstall them through the retainer ring with the fiber side toward you. Tighten the shoulder bolts with caution - excess torque will result in damage to the hub. The shaft nut, if correctly tightened, will firmly hold the hub and wheel assembly on the shaft.
8.Connect wire lead to the connector on the retainer ring. Position spring on center nut. Align the dimples of the horn cap with reliefs in fiber material and push into the dimples past the fiber. Turn cap left or right until tight.
9.Reconnect battery or replace fuse.

Sep 09, 2010 | 1991 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How to replace a broken timing belt


Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.

Aug 31, 2010 | Daewoo Nubira Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace a Jaguar X Type fron wheel bearing


Jaguar 2000-06

Wheel Bearings
Removal & Installation
  1. Remove the brake disc.
  2. Remove and discard the retaining clip. Detach the ABS sensor.
  3. Remove and discard the O-ring seal.
  4. Remove the wheel hub and bearing retaining bolts.
  5. Remove the wheel hub and bearing.
  6. Prior to applying sealer, clean the ABS sensor sealing surface and the ABS sensor aperture sealing surface.
  7. Install a new O-ring seal.
  8. Apply a 2.5mm bead of Loctite Ultra Blue 587 Silicone (RTV) sealer to the ABS sensor sealing surface.
  9. Install a new ABS sensor retaining clip.
  10. Install the hub/bearing assembly. Tighten to 90 Nm.

  1. Remove wheel knuckle.
NOTE When removing the wheel hub from the wheel knuckle the bearing will be destroyed and the bearing inner ring will remain on the wheel hub.
d752c5a.jpg

Fig. Using special tools, remove the wheel hub-X-Type
  1. Using special tools, remove the wheel hub.
  2. Using a suitable tool, remove the bearing inner ring.
  3. Using special tools, remove the wheel bearing.
  4. 2125147.jpg

    Fig. Using a suitable tool, remove the bearing inner ring-X-Type

    ee51ce7.jpg

    Fig. Using special tools, remove the wheel bearing-X-Type

To install:

b506586.jpg

Fig. Insert special tool 204-312 in to 204-309-X-Type
  1. Insert special tool 204-312 in to 204-309.
  2. Support the wheel knuckle on special tools.
NOTE Make sure wheel bearing is correctly orientated with the colored side facing inboard.
  1. Align the bearing over special tool.
  2. Using special tools, press bearing into wheel knuckle.
  3. Change special tool 204-312 to 204-313.
  4. Align the bearing and wheel knuckle over special tool.
  5. Slide wheel hub over the guide and align to the bearing.
  6. Using special tools install the wheel hub.
  7. Install the wheel knuckle.

  8. 5a457fa.jpg

    Fig. Using special tools, press bearing into wheel knuckle-X-Type

    b9fcc3f.jpg

    Fig. Change special tool 204-312 to 204-313-X-Type

    be319f2.jpg

    Fig. Align the bearing and wheel knuckle over special tool-X-Type

    8a9e0dc.jpg

    Fig. Slide wheel hub over the guide and align to the bearing-X-Type
  1. Raise front of vehicle and support on stands.
  2. Remove appropriate road wheel.
  3. Using wire or string, secure brake caliper to road spring to take weight off brake hose.
  4. Raise vehicle sufficient to provide access for special tool 204-111.
  5. Install special tool 204-111 in road spring.
  6. Slacken tool adjuster to suit spring length.
  7. Install adaptor and thrust collar.
  8. Position stem of tool in center of spring passing dowel through slot in suspension turret.
  9. 24ce878.jpg

    Fig. Install special tool 204-111 in road spring-XJ Range and XK Range

    1d0063e.jpg

    Fig. Position stem of tool in center of spring passing dowel through slot in suspension turret-XJ Range and XK Range

NOTE When turning tool adjuster, ensure that tool stem does not rotate and disturb position of dowel in suspension turret.
  1. Engage dowel of special tool 204-111 in suspension turret and rotate to position across slot.
  2. Lower vehicle onto stands.
  3. Rotate tool adjuster to tension spring.
  4. Remove wheel speed sensor securing screw and withdraw sensor from vertical link.
  5. Remove nut securing tie rod outer ball joint to steering arm.
  6. Release ball joint from vertical link.
  7. Install special tool 211-098 on tie rod outer ball joint.
  8. Tighten tool bolt to release taper pin from vertical link.
  9. Remove special tool from ball joint and position tie rod for access.
  10. Remove nut securing upper control arm ball joint to vertical link.

  11. 3af9a83.jpg

    Fig. Install special tool 211-098 on tie rod outer ball joint-XJ Range and XK Range

continue...

Aug 03, 2010 | 2002 Jaguar X-Type

2 Answers

Need instructions on how to change the lifters in my 1998 Chevy S10 2.2L


Please don't forget to rate!!!!

2.2L Engine When installing new lifters, a pre-lube should always be applied to the lifter body. It is also a good idea to prime hydraulic lifters by submerging them in clean engine oil and depressing the plunger using an old pushrod. This allows the internal components of the hydraulic lifter to coat with oil before initial operation in the engine. All lifters should be replaced when a new camshaft is installed.
If any valve train components (lifters, pushrods, rocker arms) are to be reused, they must be tagged or arranged during removal to assure installation in their original locations.
  1. Remove the rocker arm cover.
  2. Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine.
  3. Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets, then remove the brackets.
  4. Remove the hydraulic roller lifters from the bores.
  5. Inspect the lifter and lifter bore for wear and scuffing. Examine the roller for freedom of movement and/or flat spots on the roller surface.

a3ab0ce.gif
Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets ...


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... then remove the anti-rotation brackets


79533e9.gif
The lifters are located in bores in the engine block


a298166.gif
Use a lifter removal tool to remove the lifters from the bore

To install:
If installing a new lifter, coat the lifter body with a suitable camshaft pre-lube
  1. Install each hydraulic lifter to its bore being careful to align the flat sides (top) of the lifters with the flat sides of the anti-rotation brackets. When properly installed the flat sides of each lifter are aligned parallel to the anti-rotation bracket. The roller at the bottom of the lifter is parallel to the camshaft lobe.
Make sure to properly align and install each lifter as improper installation of the lifters or brackets could result in engine damage.
  1. Install the anti-rotation bracket retaining bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
  2. Install the cylinder head.
  3. Install the rocker arm cover.

d477687.gif
Removing the hydraulic roller lifter from the 2.2L engine

Feb 06, 2010 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Remove/replace shock absorber assembly 900s 1995 saab


  1. Slightly loosen hub center nut when all four wheels are on ground.
  2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove five wheel bolts and wheel.
  3. Remove hub center nut, then the wheel sensor,
  4. Press back brake piston using slip-joint pliers,
  5. Remove caliper from steering swivel member, then suspend in wheel housing with cable tie.
  6. Remove brake disc and back plate, then slightly loosen tie rod end nut.
  7. Press out tie rod end nut using puller tool or equivalent.
  8. Remove nut and tie rod end bolt, then the anti-roll bar to swinging arm nut.
  9. Remove outer ball joint nut.
  10. Press ball joint out of steering swivel member using puller tool or equivalent, installed on spring link.
  11. Remove nut and discard. This self-locking nut must not be reused.
  12. Remove three upper mounting nuts for MacPherson strut, then the strut.
  13. Clamp MacPherson strut in vice.
  14. Compress spring using spring compressor or equivalents.
  15. Hold piston rod and remove nut using MacPherson strut socket tool 89 96 662, or equivalent. This is a self-locking nut and must not be reused.
  16. Remove mounting and top spring seat, then the coil spring, gaiter and compression stop.
  17. Unscrew damper using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent, then remove damper from strut.
  18. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
    1. Screw damper in place using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent.
    2. Lower end of coil spring should abut against stop in bottom of spring cup.
    3. Position MacPherson strut on vehicle and install three retaining nuts on top mounting. Tighten nuts alternately, according to specifications.
    4. Always use new hub center nut with self-locking threads.

Jun 04, 2009 | 1995 Saab 900

2 Answers

I cant get my 95 honda civic on timings the motor is 16v 1.5 l woundering if you could help


put the number one cylinder at top dead center and line up the timing marks on the cam gear and put the belt on

Apr 11, 2009 | 1995 Honda Civic

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