Question about Volkswagen Cars & Trucks
We were told car not worth repairing as to old & only dealership would be able to repair it.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Broken timing chain
It depends on what engine the car has. The 2.8l V6 30v engine (1998 and newer) has a timing belt that runs the water pump and exhaust cams off the crank pulley, but the intake cams are driven by a timing chain assembly inside the head, with each intake cam driven by its respective exhaust cam. The car likely has valve damage, although if it shut down quickly, there may not be any piston or cylinder damage. The only way to know though, is to autopsy the motor and inspect everything. That alone is going to cost a lot. You'd probably be better off sourcing another engine from an auto recycler such as www.shokan.com in NY, or on eBay or Craigslist. I'd bet that you'd pay less to buy and ship that engine than you would to determine the full extent of the damage to your own existing engine.
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
No, corrosion will not cause a battery to drain, even if the corrosion is on the terminals. Several factors can cause battery drain, I would first have the battery tested to see if the battery it self is not bad. If the battery is good, then the most common is a short. All most all new cars have a certain amount of drain,(measured in milivolts) this drain is for clocks and computer memory's, and it would take several days of a vehicle sitting for the battery to be drained. Don't immediately assume you have a problem if you see 2-6 milivolts of drain on a battery with the key out, now if your battery is being drained after being parked over night, you have a problem. The easiest way to pin down the problem short is to disconnect your positive battery cable from the battery, take a 12 volt test light and clamp one end to the positive cable, and hold the probe to the positive post. Now if you have a short the light will come on. Have someone help you by pulling the fuses one at a time. If when a fuse is pulled the light goes out you have isolated the short to that system. If you pulled all the fuses and the light never went out try disconnecting all the wires from the alternator, 9 times outta 10 do this will let you know where your short is. If the system is not critical like power locks some people just leave the fuse out.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
First of all, one of the easiest & cheapest ways to find a draw in the system, if you don't have a clamp on style amp-meter, is with a 12volt test light that costs about $5-$10 at parts stores or hardware stores. You remove positive (+) cable from battery, and simply attach test light in between the battery cable & battery + post. Be careful neither end touches metal obviously. Anytime the test light is lit, you have a draw. If light is nice & bright, it's a fairly good draw, when dim, slight draw. When light goes out, no draw. Now start pulling and re-installing fuses. If you pull a fuse and bright light goes out, you've isolated the circuit.. I usually make sure I have notes or whatever is needed to insure I put fuses back where they should be, then I pull radio fuse and leave it out, as it will cause a constant draw for memory, and sometimes any accessory fuses such as lighter, or power socket for 12v chargers etc. With those out of the way, start pulling and watch light, if no change, put it back in. When I run into a real stumper, I make necessary notes if needed as before, and pull them all out, and light should be off. Now I start putting them in 1 at a time, and watch the light, when it comes on, I note that circuit, pull it back out, and do same with the rest. When your done you will have notes on every circuit that is causing a draw on your battery when sitting. Before you start, take your test light, go to all the fuses and touch little tips sticking out at end of fuses on both side to test for power, if only power on one side, that is a circuit that would not cause a draw when sitting & vehicle off. That would only be powered when key on, headlights on for example, so it doesn't come into play here. Leave those in if you want & it doesn't confuse you. Yes a little time consumming, but hey, think of the learning experience, and a simple test light, is something that every car owner should have anyway. Next time your wondering which fuse blew, you have a test light to tell you. As far as the heated seat goes, if there is a short there, and it's causing a lot of draw, pulling fuse should eliminate & confirm that.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
SOURCE: Engine light came on. The dealership said it was diagnostic code P0420 and that it would cost @ $1,200.00 to repair. This seem pretty high. What is this diagnostic code about and is the repair rate
Hi, this code represents a Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
(Bank 1). and the repair, considering that it will be repaired by the dealership, seems to be in the normal cost range. The labor is what usually inflates the price when dealing with catalytic replacements.
You could probably get a better deal by taking it to a non dealership type of repair shop. This may cut at least 200 dollars of the original dealership quote.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
You did say, "Any Input", right?
I had this problem with a 1992 Pontaic Bonneville.
Customer brought it in, and after days of diagnosing it drove me crazy. Turned out to be the wiring harness that goes from the camshaft sensor, and crankshaft sensor to the coil pack, had breaks in the wiring.
Everything checked out with a multimeter. All sensors, and related hardware checked out. Seems this wiring harness is doomed to fail after time goes by, because of the location. It's behind the water pump on this V6, 3.8 Liter transverse engine.
NO, I didn't replace it with a GM part! I made my own, and KNOW it will last now!
Such a JOY to get to! I put myself to sleep at night thinking about how much Fun(?) that was!
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
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