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Vaulsxwagon toran. Intermittent problems with flat battery.2 new ones in less than 1yr. Diagnostic test- something electrical not shutting down draining battery.

We were told car not worth repairing as to old & only dealership would be able to repair it.

Posted by Anonymous on


6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: Broken timing chain

It depends on what engine the car has. The 2.8l V6 30v engine (1998 and newer) has a timing belt that runs the water pump and exhaust cams off the crank pulley, but the intake cams are driven by a timing chain assembly inside the head, with each intake cam driven by its respective exhaust cam. The car likely has valve damage, although if it shut down quickly, there may not be any piston or cylinder damage. The only way to know though, is to autopsy the motor and inspect everything. That alone is going to cost a lot. You'd probably be better off sourcing another engine from an auto recycler such as in NY, or on eBay or Craigslist. I'd bet that you'd pay less to buy and ship that engine than you would to determine the full extent of the damage to your own existing engine.

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

  • 320 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Corvette drains the battery in less than 2 days.

No, corrosion will not cause a battery to drain, even if the corrosion is on the terminals. Several factors can cause battery drain, I would first have the battery tested to see if the battery it self is not bad. If the battery is good, then the most common is a short. All most all new cars have a certain amount of drain,(measured in milivolts) this drain is for clocks and computer memory's, and it would take several days of a vehicle sitting for the battery to be drained. Don't immediately assume you have a problem if you see 2-6 milivolts of drain on a battery with the key out, now if your battery is being drained after being parked over night, you have a problem. The easiest way to pin down the problem short is to disconnect your positive battery cable from the battery, take a 12 volt test light and clamp one end to the positive cable, and hold the probe to the positive post. Now if you have a short the light will come on. Have someone help you by pulling the fuses one at a time. If when a fuse is pulled the light goes out you have isolated the short to that system. If you pulled all the fuses and the light never went out try disconnecting all the wires from the alternator, 9 times outta 10 do this will let you know where your short is. If the system is not critical like power locks some people just leave the fuse out. 

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: electrical problems - something draining battery

First of all, one of the easiest & cheapest ways to find a draw in the system, if you don't have a clamp on style amp-meter, is with a 12volt test light that costs about $5-$10 at parts stores or hardware stores. You remove positive (+) cable from battery, and simply attach test light in between the battery cable & battery + post. Be careful neither end touches metal obviously. Anytime the test light is lit, you have a draw. If light is nice & bright, it's a fairly good draw, when dim, slight draw. When light goes out, no draw. Now start pulling and re-installing fuses. If you pull a fuse and bright light goes out, you've isolated the circuit.. I usually make sure I have notes or whatever is needed to insure I put fuses back where they should be, then I pull radio fuse and leave it out, as it will cause a constant draw for memory, and sometimes any accessory fuses such as lighter, or power socket for 12v chargers etc. With those out of the way, start pulling and watch light, if no change, put it back in. When I run into a real stumper, I make necessary notes if needed as before, and pull them all out, and light should be off. Now I start putting them in 1 at a time, and watch the light, when it comes on, I note that circuit, pull it back out, and do same with the rest. When your done you will have notes on every circuit that is causing a draw on your battery when sitting. Before you start, take your test light, go to all the fuses and touch little tips sticking out at end of fuses on both side to test for power, if only power on one side, that is a circuit that would not cause a draw when sitting & vehicle off. That would only be powered when key on, headlights on for example, so it doesn't come into play here. Leave those in if you want & it doesn't confuse you. Yes a little time consumming, but hey, think of the learning experience, and a simple test light, is something that every car owner should have anyway. Next time your wondering which fuse blew, you have a test light to tell you. As far as the heated seat goes, if there is a short there, and it's causing a lot of draw, pulling fuse should eliminate & confirm that.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Engine light came on. The dealership said it was diagnostic code P0420 and that it would cost @ $1,200.00 to repair. This seem pretty high. What is this diagnostic code about and is the repair rate

Hi, this code represents a Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). and the repair, considering that it will be repaired by the dealership, seems to be in the normal cost range. The labor is what usually inflates the price when dealing with catalytic replacements.

You could probably get a better deal by taking it to a non dealership type of repair shop. This may cut at least 200 dollars of the original dealership quote.

Please rate and god bless:)

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: Intermittent electrical problem - 2004 Nissan Altima

You did say, "Any Input", right?

I had this problem with a 1992 Pontaic Bonneville.

Customer brought it in, and after days of diagnosing it drove me crazy. Turned out to be the wiring harness that goes from the camshaft sensor, and crankshaft sensor to the coil pack, had breaks in the wiring.

Everything checked out with a multimeter. All sensors, and related hardware checked out. Seems this wiring harness is doomed to fail after time goes by, because of the location. It's behind the water pump on this V6, 3.8 Liter transverse engine.

NO, I didn't replace it with a GM part! I made my own, and KNOW it will last now!

Such a JOY to get to! I put myself to sleep at night thinking about how much Fun(?) that was!

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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What is the reason behind an intermittent electrical fault and engine failure

It is a difficult one to answer because it is intermittent and probably will not happen during a fault finding test. Intermittent faults in electrics generally are a result of bad earths ,rusted earths , loose battery terminals and cables into the terminals ,battery posts and terminals not shiny clean, loose connections in the harness, loose fuses holders and fuses harness connecters being dirty at the contact points and an electronic unit that has an internal (ECM) fault that occurs when the road is rough, bumps . For your problem I would be checking that all the connections into the ECM are clean and the connections are tight . Battery terminals and loose wires on the alternator. And one that happens sometimes ,heavy keys hanging from the ignition switch will sway back and forth and momentarily disconnect the run circuit. IT has been known to happen . So I think to be fair to the person doing the diagnostic check it would be akin to looking for a needle in a haystack while wearing brown coloured glasses. When it happens try to be aware of the exact circumstances at the time , how long the car was in operation, weather conditions (hot-cold), What you had working at the time (radio, lights , cigarette lighter, wipers what ever). Anything may seem unimportant at the time but may point to what is happening and so help the mechanic /electriciaan

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Possible electrical problems

check battery terminals and posts are shiny clean and tight. Check earth wire from battery is tight on the engine or block. Check for loose fusible link.. The problem Is the main power lead from the battery has an intermittent connection. If the battery is not off the shelf new but a friends new battery then have it load tested for a faulty bridge or cell

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Honda 2004 CRV seems like it has charging problem. Replaced battery and and Alternator. Fine for 2 months, now having problems starting. Something is draining that battery when it sits in garage. ...

I doubt the actuator, but not positive. I think it would be buzzing or clicking if it were drawing current.
So new battery and alternator. Assuming no problems in the charging system, you may be right about the drain. Here's how to check for the so-called parasitic draw, or unintended drain: Having just gotten home or having run the engine a good time to assure the battery is fully charged (about 30 minutes at least), shut off the car and open the hood. If there is an under hood light, take out the bulb. Now let the car sit for a good half hour, key out of ignition, everything off, to make sure the engine computer has gone to sleep, and all systems are shut down.

Take off the negative battery terminal and hook up a test light or voltmeter between the negative cable end and the negative battery post. If there is a drain, the test light should be bright, or voltmeter will register voltage. There is always a very small electrical draw on the battery from the keep alive memory for clock, radio pre-sets, computer memory, and the security system. But this should only be milliamps (less usually than 100 milliamps-not enough to drain a battery for a long time, less amperage than a glove box light bulb would draw). The test light should not be lit, or if affected by this milliamp draw, would have a very, very dim bulb glow.

If the tester lights up bright, there is an unintended drain. To find it, start pulling fuses one at a time, watching the test light. When a fuse is pulled and the test light goes out, you have found the problem circuit. Check a wiring diagram to see what all is on that circuit to find the problem.
Now if you did not find a drain, then have the charging system checked. Good luck, hope you find it.

Oct 30, 2013 | Honda Odyssey Cars & Trucks

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I have a 02 dodge grand caravan sport with 0351,0352,0700 runs good then shakes and even stalls at times,but not all the time...i have replaced ignition coil,wires,plugs,and catalytic...

po700 code just means you have codes

With battery voltage greater than 8 volts during engine cranking or greater than 13 volts with engine running. Engine RPM less than 3000. No coil in dwell during test.

Peak current is not achieved with battery based dwell plus 1.5 msec of diagnostic offset. It takes less than 3 seconds during cranking or up to 6 seconds while running to set.

- Ignition coil
- Intermittent condition
- ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Ignition coil driver circuit shorted to ground


This symptom is diagnosed using the test P0351-IGNITION COIL #1 PRIMARY CIRCUIT.

With battery voltage greater than 8 volts during engine cranking or greater than 13 volts with engine running. Engine RPM less than 3000. No coil in dwell during test.

Peak current is not achieved with battery based dwell plus 1.5 msec of diagnostic offset. It takes less than 3 seconds during cranking or up to 6 seconds while running to set.

- Ignition coil
- Intermittent condition
- ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Ignition coil driver circuit shorted to ground
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Jun 14, 2011 | 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

Waht ist tha p1516

DTC P1516 - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance


Circuit Description (click over pic for zoom)
The commanded throttle position, based on accelerator pedal position and possibly other limiting factors, is compared to the Actual throttle position. The 2 values should be within a calibrated range of each other. Both the PCM and the TAC module redundantly monitor the Commanded and Actual throttle position. This DTC sets if the TAC module detects the problem.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
1. DTC P1518 is not set.
2. The ignition switch is in the crank or run position.
3. The ignition voltage is greater than 5.23 volts.
4. Not in battery saver mode.
5. The TAC module detects that the commanded and actual throttle positions are not within a calibrated range of each other or the PCM and the TAC cannot determine throttle position or both TP sensors are invalid.
6. All above conditions met for less than 1 second.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
1. The PCM will illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) when this diagnostic runs and fails.
2. The Reduced Engine Power message displays on the drivers information center.
3. The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The PCM stores this information in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records.
4. If no other TAC System DTCs are set, the TAC System will operate in Reduced Engine Power mode. If certain TAC System DTCs are set at the same time, the TAC System either defaults to a more tightly restricted mode of operation if the TAC determines that limited safe operation is possible, or the TAC commands the engine to shut down.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
1. The PCM turns the MIL OFF after three consecutive drive trips that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
2. A last test failed (Current DTC) will clear when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
3. A History DTC clears after forty consecutive warm-up cycles, if this or any other emission related diagnostic does not report any failures.
4. The PCM battery voltage is interrupted.
5. Important
* The clear DTC info function may have to be performed twice in order to clear a Throttle Actuator Control System DTC.
* Clear the MIL/DTC information using a scan tool.

Diagnostic Aids
The following may cause an intermittent:
1. Poor connections. Check for adequate terminal tension. Refer to Troubleshooting Procedures, Checking Terminal Contact (Body and Accessories/Wiring Systems) for proper procedure.
2. Corrosion
3. Mis-routed harness
4. Rubbed through wire insulation
5. Broken wire inside the insulation
6. Inspect the TAC module connectors for signs of water intrusion. When this occurs, multiple DTCs should be set and no circuit or component problems can be located.

1. For an intermittent condition refer to Symptoms .
2. If a repair is completed and the DTC was cleared using a scan tool on the same ignition cycle, the default action will not clear until an ignition cycle has occurred.
3. When the TAC module detects a problem within the TAC System, more than one TAC System related DTC may set. This is due to the many redundant tests run continuously on this system. Locating and repairing one individual problem may correct more than one DTC. Keep this in mind when reviewing captured DTC info.

Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

5. If the TP Indicated Angle does not follow the movement of the throttle blade, and no TP Sensor DTCs are set, there is a mechanical problem with the throttle shaft or the TP Sensor. Replace the throttle body assembly. Re-install the air inlet duct after you complete the repairs.

21. When a problem is detected within the TAC System, more than one TAC System related DTC may set. This is due to the many redundant tests run continuously on this system. It is possible that locating and repairing one individual problem may correct more than one DTC. Keep this in mind when reviewing captured DTC info.







Hope helps.

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1 Answer

1999 toyota battery keeps going down with new alternater this makes 2 alternaters and batteries

The most likely cause if you have changed batteries and replaced the alternator is that you have something that is an electrical drw when the car is shut off.

I assume the battery goes down while the car is sitting?

If it goes down when you are driving, it is likely a different problem.

If you don't have a multimeter to check for current draw when everything is shut off, an easy test to remove the negative battery cable and let it set the time it takes to discharge.

Then hook it back up and see if you have a full battery. If it doesn't go down with the batteryt cable disconnected, you either have a short somewhere or there is something left on (like a glove compartment or trunk light) that is draining the battery.

I assume you checked for the obvious things like brake lights staying on when the car is shut off (brake light switch problem).

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1 Answer

After having two new batteries fitted,something is draining the current one.everything has been tested on a diagnostic machine,no fault found.just recently drivers window stopped working,any ideas?

It's difficult to find intermittent battery drains, but I can tell you from past experience the most likely things are 1. the trunk light staying on sometimes. If you can access the bulb, remove it and see what happens. 2. the hood light, same solution. 3. aftermarket alarms and car starter are often the culprit. Hope this helps. I think the window problem is unrelated. The window motor probably is bad. Sometimes you can get lucky and make it work by banging on the inside of the door near the bottom while holding the switch down. If this works, it's definetely a bad window motor.

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My 2000 lincoln ls battery keeps dying have bought 2 new batteris same peoblem is something draining the power?

Either something is draining the power or your alternator is not recharging your battery. Do you have a DC voltmeter? With the engine running check the voltage accross the battery it should be about 14 volts. If it's down around 12.5 volts with engine running the alternator is not working. If you determine the the alternator is working and the battery goes dead, then there is a draw on the system. It could still be the alternator though, there are diodes in the alternator, a diode acts like a one way gate for electricity. With one bad diode the alternator will still work but, when you shut the car off the alternator drains the battery back down. Something is drawing it down, without testing equipment, you'll have to take it to a shop. Something you could try, after the car has been shut off for while, an hour or more, go feel if the alternator is warm or hot, if so it's drawing the battery down. Disconnect the battery overnight so it doesn't go dead on you.

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1 Answer

Mazda Tribute Intermittent Starting problem

I can think of 2 possibles,it could be a bad battery cable or an intermitent short in the starter solenoid, check or have the battery cables and there connections on both ends first not only are they a cheaper fix but the problem you describe sounds like a current flow issue.Test them with or have them tested with an ohmmeter they should show o ohms resistance,and while not attributed to the problem I do not reccomend using Bosch spark plugs of any variety,the best plugs for any Japanese vehicle are NGK's,this comes from my personal experience with them and other techs that I have worked with.

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