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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the 4x4 don't use vacuum. the front is auto lock when the transfer is engauged with the button. if the light don't which when pressed into 4hi or 4low. the motor on the transfer case maybe hung up. they have to be used at least 4 times a year not to go bad. the motor is on the back side of the transfer case. best of luck.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
You can use any vacuum port on the manifold for that. If you want to mess with it a bit, if you have an open port on the carb that is above the throttle plate, you can use that and see if performance is better. Some engines like it and some don't, but it's not like you have to take the engine apart to try it!!
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
The Vacuum line to the 4wd actuator from under the battery try runs along the passenger side frame to the vacuum harness that is connected to the vacuum switch on top of the transfer case, driver's side.
The 4wd vacuum switch on top of the transfer case (driver's side) will have three vacuum line, one to the actuator under the battery try, one to vent out the vacuum, and the vacuum line it self which runs up towards the firewall making it's way to the vacuum canister on the drivers fender by the brake booster.
Hope this helps your and thank you for using fixya. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/general%20automotive/94_vac_overall.gif http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/general%20automotive/94_4wd1.gif
Posted on Apr 18, 2010
Testimonial: "The best explanation I could find for the vacuum system operating the 4wd on my Blazer"
Not sure which design carb you have but here's a rule that works for all carbs. Attach the vacuum advance hose to any port coming from the carb baseplate (bottom). If you don't have a free one, you can use a "T" in another line or if there's a fitting on the manifold you could use that as well. Just make sure that the line has full vacuum at idle. (check with a vacuum gauge or just put your finger over it and feel for vacuum) Since it's pretty old, it would be good to put your finger under the advance mechanism when you attach the line (running) and make sure the small rod that goes into the distributor moves when you do that. if it does not, then the advance diaphragm is bad and you will need to replace it. Use small rubber plugs to block off any unused ports.
As for the fuel line. You should have a threaded inlet on the fuel bowl. The line attaches there. If you need to make a line, you can get one from any parts house, cut it to length and use rubber fuel hose to join it together with the one already on the fuel pump. When running new line, keep it away from exhaust manifolds, belts and pulleys. Best to put an in-line filter in the hose....that will keep the carb clean. If it's a four barrel (doubtful for that engine) you would need a fuel rail that joins both carb inlets to the single line from the pump.
If you have a problem understanding this, just ask and I'll clarify it for you.
Posted on Jul 12, 2011
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