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Hi, is there anything that diny to remove cealinder head for 1 Az fe engine after in scrwe the hole bolt? Mine is stuck help me

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: bolt torque specs

I have used Haynes service manuals for (hate to admit it) many decades and I recommend you check to see if this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Haynes-Toyota-Automotive-Repair-Manual/dp/1563923513

doesn't cover your engine.

I have found darned few 'holes' in their coverage.

Auto parts stores carry these and I suspect that even though sealed, the sales people will not give you too hard of a time if you explain you want to insure you are getting what you need.

Haynes is not the same as it was 20 years ago before they were acquired by Chilton but the price/utility ratio is still pretty good.
Mostly I'm annoyed by the move to cheaper paper (newsprint)that is fussier, picks up dirt, tears more easily than the better paper of yore.

Posted on Aug 20, 2008

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pippall
  • 1486 Answers

SOURCE: left head gasket repair problem

you have to remove the mount.

Posted on May 31, 2009

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: cylinder head removal on 2005 nissan altima 2.5

CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL

2.5L Engines

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain cooling system and engine oil.
  3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Upper radiator hose and heater hose
    • Right side fuse/relay box and move aside
    • Engine undercover
    • Resonator and air cleaner case
    • Engine top cover
    • All electrical and vacuum lines at the head
    • Fuse hose quick connector at fuel tube side
    • Engine harness and power steering hose bracket
    • Timing chain
    • Drive belt tensioner
    • Camshafts
    • Spark plugs
    • Exhaust manifold
  5. Support the engine from above and below with a suitable jack and hoist.
  6. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Power steering pump and reservoir and wire aside
    • Auxiliary drive belts
    • A/C compressor and wire aside
    • Upper sway bar links
    • Front and rear engine mount through bolts
    • Lower ball joints
    • 2 steering gear housing mounting bolts
    • Front suspension member bolts and front suspension member
  7. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown and remove the cylinder head.
d365038.gif
Removing the front suspension member—Altima

7555308.gif
Cylinder head bolt removal sequence—2.5L engine–Altima and Sentra

1e6ce81.gif
Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence—2.5L engine–Altima and Sentra

To install:
  1. Clean the gasket surfaces.
  2. Using new head gaskets, install the cylinder heads.
    NOTE If possible, replacement of the head bolts is suggested.

  3. If replacement of the head bolts is not possible, perform the following bolt measurement:
    • Measure the diameter of the head bolt 0.43 in. (11mm) from the bottom of the bolt.
    • Measure the diameter of the head bolt 2.17 in. (55mm) from the bottom of the bolt.
    • Whenever the size difference between the 2 measurements exceeds 0.0091 in. (0.23mm) the head bolts must be replaced.
  4. Apply clean engine oil to the bolt threads and seating surfaces and tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence as follows:
    • Step 1: 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm).
    • Step 2: Loosen all the bolts completely.
    • Step 2: 29 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
    • Step 4: Plus 75–80 degrees clockwise.
    • Step 5: Plus 75–80 degrees clockwise.
  5. Install the front suspension member and tighten the bolts to the specifications shown in the illustration.
  6. Install or connect the following:
    • 2 steering gear housing mounting bolts
    • Lower ball joints
    • Front and rear engine mount through bolts
    • Upper sway bar links
    • A/C compressor
    • Auxiliary drive belts
    • Power steering pump and reservoir
    • Exhaust manifold
    • Spark plugs
    • Camshafts
    • Drive belt tensioner
    • Timing chain
    • Engine harness and power steering hose bracket
    • Fuse hose quick connector at fuel tube side
    • All electrical and vacuum lines at the head
    • Engine top cover
    • Resonator and air cleaner case
    • Engine undercover
    • Right side fuse/relay box and move aside
    • Upper radiator hose and heater hose
    • Negative battery cable
  7. Fill the cooling system and engine oil
  8. Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Head bolt torque specs?

I really really really hope you turned the bolts an additional 90 degrees after torquing to 22 Ft-lbs. Otherwise, you may be taking that head off again.

Best of luck,

David

Posted on Mar 15, 2010

  • 613 Answers

SOURCE: after removing all of my coil packs to change my

yes you need to buy a tap and die kit and drill out the bolt so can put new one in probably the rubber on the clamp is melting or the the pack itself is from the clamp

Posted on Sep 24, 2010

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1 Answer

I. Need. Help. With. Cam bolts. And head bolts


Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed
  • Eye protection
  • Gloves
  • Oil and coolant drain
  • Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
  • Shop rags
  • Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
    Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
    Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
    Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

    Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

    Materials Needed
    • Head bolt socket (if needed)
    • Numbered cardboard
    • Rubber hammer
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
      The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
      Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
      Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
      Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
      Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
      The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
      Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
      • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

      Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

      Material Needed
      • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
        This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
        Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
        Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
        Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
        Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
        Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
        • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
        Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

Sep 29, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

REPLACING CYLINDERHEAD-TORQU SPEXS NEEDED


For the 12 Pointed Head Bearing Cap Sub-Assembly Bolts
Start from center bolts and tighten in a clockwise rotation working out
Step 1 all bolts 22 Nm or 16 ft lb
Step 2 all bolts 44 Nm or 32 ft lb
Step 3 all bolts 45 degrees additional clockwise rotation using an angle indicator.
Step 4 all bolts 45 degrees additional clockwise rotation using an angle indicator.

Hexagon Head Bearing Cap Sub-Assembly Bolts
1ZZ-FE Engine 18.5 Nm (14 ft.lb)
2ZZ-GE Engine 18 Nm (13 ft.lb)

Connecting rod:
1. Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of theconnecting rod cap bolts.
2. Install and alternately tighten the 2 connecting rod cap bolts in several passes. Torque: 1ZZ-FE: 20 Nm (204 kgf-cm, 15 ft. lbs.) 2ZZ-GE: 30 Nm (306 kgf-cm, 22 ft. lbs.) If any of the connecting rod cap bolts does not meet the torque specification, replace the connecting rod cap bolts.
3. Retighten the cap bolts by 90 more
4. Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.

Sep 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1996 toyota camry 2.2 5s- too manny timing marks crank shaft,cam shaft and cam shaft gears


Hi there:I dont have this diagram for 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines, but pay attention at this...
To install:
  1. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
  2. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
  3. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly.

Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.

  1. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
  2. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys.

If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.

  1. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
  2. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  3. On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  4. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
  5. On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.

On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.

  1. Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  2. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  3. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1 / 2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.

  4. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
  5. Install the spark plugs.
  6. Install the right mounting insulator with bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. (71 Nm). On the 5S-FE, install the No. 2 engine mount bracket and tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm); install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
  7. Lower the engine.
  8. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, install the alternator and alternator bracket. On 2S-ELC engines, install the power steering reservoir tank.
  9. Install the drive belt and adjust the tension.
  10. Install the cruise control actuator with bracket.
  11. Install the fender apron seal and right engine under cover.
  12. Install the right front wheel.


Hope this helps.

Jun 12, 2012 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need timing marks on 2.2 toyota camry 2000


1. Remove the fan and generator V belt:
tdisline_542.jpg

tdisline_543.jpg 2. TIMING CHAIN (2az-FE Engine):
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Hood Right-side front wheel Engine under covers Right-side fender apron seal Front exhaust pipe Engine moving control rod and bracket Right-side engine mounting stay and bracket Accessory drive belt Engine appearance cover Engine wire Alternator Power steering pump, leave the hoses connected Ignition coils Ventilation hoses Cylinder head cover Turn the crankshaft pulley to set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC compression. Align the groove on the pulley with the timing mark -0- on the front cover. Remove the crankshaft pulley as follows:
1. TMC made: Use Special Tool 09213-54015 to hold the pulley to loosen the bolt. Use Special Tool 09950-50013 to remove the bolt and pulley.

2. TMMK made: Use Special Tool 09960-10010 to hold the pulley to remove the bolt. Use Special Tool 09950-40011 to remove the crankshaft pulley
tdisline_544.jpg Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMC-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
tdisline_545.jpg

Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMMK-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

Remove or disconnect the following:
Crankshaft position sensor Lower oil pan No. 1 chain tensioner Accessory drive belt tensioner

  • Support the engine with a suitable engine lifting device.
  • Remove or disconnect the following:
    Engine mounting insulators Right-side engine mounting bracket Stud bolt for the accessory drive belt tensioner from the block Front cover mounting bolts and nuts Front cover Crankshaft position sensor plate Timing chain tensioner slipper Timing chain vibration damper Timing chain Crankshaft timing sprocket
  • Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise by 90°, and align an adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket with the groove of the oil pump.
    tdisline_546.jpg
  • Fig. Align the adjusting hole of the oil pump drive sprocket with the oil pump groove-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_551.jpg

    Fig. Insert a bar to lock the sprocket in position-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    Put a bar in the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket to temporarily lock the sprocket in position. Remove the nut.

    Remove the bolt, chain tensioner and spring.

    Remove the chain tensioner, oil pump sprocket and No. 2 timing chain.

    To install:
    Set the crankshaft key into the left horizontal position. Turn the cutout of the drive shaft to the top

    tdisline_552.jpg

  • Fig. Align the crankshaft key and drive shaft cutout as shown for installation-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    Align the yellow colored links with the timing marks of the sprocket as shown in the illustration.

  • Insert the sprockets with chain to the crankshaft and oil pump shaft.
  • Temporarily tighten the oil pump driven sprocket with the nut.
  • Insert the damper spring into the adjusting hole, and install the chain tensioner plate with the nut. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  • Align the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket with the groove of the oil pump.
  • Put a bar in the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket to temporarily lock the sprocket in position. Tighten the nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  • Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise by 90°, and align the crankshaft key to the top.
  • Install the timing chain vibration damper. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  • Align the timing marks of the camshaft timing sprockets and bearing caps.
  • Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft and set the set key on the crankshaft upward.
  • Align the gold or orange colored link with the timing mark of the crankshaft timing sprocket.
  • Using Special Tool 09309-37010, tap in the sprocket.
  • Align the gold or yellow colored links with the timing marks of the camshaft timing gear and camshaft timing sprocket. Install the chain.
  • tdisline_553.jpg Fig. Align the marks of the sprockets and bearing caps to set the No. 1 cylinder at TDC-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_554.jpg Fig. Set the crankshaft set key facing upward-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_555.jpg Fig. Align the marked link of the timing chain with crankshaft sprocket timing mark-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_556.jpg Fig. Tap the crankshaft sprocket in with Special Tool 09309-37010-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_557.jpg Fig. Align the marked links of the timing chain with the camshaft sprockets during installation-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

    May 21, 2011 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    What are the timing marks for a 1996 toyota camry, 2.2


    2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines

    When install,
    align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).

    On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
    Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.

    On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley.

    On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.



    Apr 29, 2011 | 1996 Toyota Camry

    1 Answer

    Where's the cranck sensor located?


    Click the boxes with a red x in them to see diagram images. 5VZ-FE Engine
    1. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor harness. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the crankshaft position sensor mounting 86824pa8.gif

    2. Remove the bolt retaining the sensor to the vehicle.
    3. To install, attach the sensor to the vehicle, tighten to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
    2VZ-FE and 3VZ-FE Engines
    1. Remove the engine under cover.
    2. Remove the alternator.
    3. Unbolt the alternator bracket.
    4. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor harness.
    5. Remove the bolts securing the sensor and the sensor. Discard the O-ring.
    6. When installing, apply a light coat of engine oil on the O-ring, install on the sensor tighten the bolts to 74 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
    1FZ-FE Engine
    1. Remove the engine under cover.
    2. Unbolt the sensor protector. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the 1FZ-FE crankshaft position sensor mounting 86824pb3.gif

    3. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor bracket and harness.
    4. Remove the bolt, nuts and sensor.
    5. When installing, attach the sensor and tighten the bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the nuts to 78 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

    Jan 28, 2011 | 1989 Toyota 4Runner

    1 Answer

    Procedure in changing timing belt


    Timing Belt and Sprockets REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines
    1. Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
    2. Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
    3. Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
    4. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
    5. Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
    6. Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
    7. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
    8. Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can not be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
    9. Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley. To install:
    10. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
    11. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
    12. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly. NOTE: Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.
    13. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
    14. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys. NOTE: If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
    15. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
    16. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
    17. On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
    18. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
    19. On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt. NOTE: On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.
    20. Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
    21. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
    22. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
      1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
      2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1⁄2 turn.
      3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
      4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
      5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.
    23. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
    24. Install the spark plugs.
    25. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.

    Aug 04, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Camry

    2 Answers

    What r the torque specifications on installing a head on a 1999 yukon and the tightening sequence


    Check this procedure...
    1. Tighten the first design cylinder head bolts as follows:
      1. M11 bolts 1st pass: in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
      2. M11 bolts 2nd pass: in sequence + 90 degrees.
      3. M11 bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8): + 90 degrees.
      4. M11 bolts (9 and 10): + 50 degrees.
      5. M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.
    2. Tighten the second design cylinder head bolts as follows:
      1. M11 bolts (1-10) 1st pass: in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
      2. M11 bolts (1-10) 2nd pass: in sequence + 90 degrees.
      3. M11 bolts (1-10): + 70 degrees.
      4. M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

    c409909.jpg

    Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines (click for zoom)


    Install the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). The bolts must be tightened once, then be tightened again in sequence in the following order:
    1. Step 1: Short length bolt: (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15, 16), plus 55 degrees.
    2. Step 2: Medium length bolt: (14, 17), plus 65 degrees.
    3. Step 3: Long length bolts: (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10, 13), plus 75 degrees.

    7f05cb7.jpg

    Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-5.0L and 5.7L engines

    Aug 04, 2010 | 1999 GMC Yukon Denali

    2 Answers

    How to replace thermostat


    1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L EFI DOHC 4cyl
    On both diesel and gasoline engines, the thermostat is located in the water inlet housing connected to the lower radiator hose.

    R
    CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
    Gasoline Engines
    (see Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7)
    1. Position a suitable drain pan under the radiator drain **** and drain the cooling system.
    2. On the 1MZ-FE engine, remove the air cleaner cap assembly. Be sure to label all wiring disconnected.
    3. Disconnect the water temperature switch harness from the water inlet housing (except 5S-FE engines).
    4. Remove the oil filter on 5S-FE engines. On the 1MZ-FE engines, remove the heater hose covering the housing.
    5. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water inlet housing.
    6. Remove the two nuts from the water inlet housing and remove the housing from the water pump studs.
    7. Remove the thermostat and rubber O-ring gasket from the water inlet housing.
    To install:
    1. Make sure all the gasket surfaces are clean. Clean the inside of the inlet housing and the radiator hose connection with a rag.
    2. Install the new rubber O-ring gasket onto the thermostat. On 2SE and 3S-FE engines, align the jiggle valve of the thermostat with the protrusion on the water inlet housing. On 5S-FE engines, align the jiggle valve with the upper side of the stud bolt. On 2VZ-FE and 3VZ-FE engines, align the jiggle valve with the stud bolt. Insert the thermostat into the housing.
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    Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the thermostat housing from the engine with the coolant temperature sensor-1MZ-FE engine

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    Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the thermostat from the engine-1MZ-FE engine

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    Fig. Fig. 3: Always discard the old O-ring from the thermostat, if reusing the old component

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    Fig. Fig. 4: Always replace the thermostat with the correct temperature specifications

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    Fig. Fig. 5: The thermostat is placed in between the housing and the cylinder head as shown here-2S-ELC and 3S-FE engines

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    Fig. Fig. 6: Line-up the jiggle valve with the protrusion on the housing-5S-FE engine
    1. Position the water inlet housing with the thermostat over the studs on the water pump and install the two nuts. Tighten the two nuts to 78 inch lbs. (9 Nm) on 4 cyl. engines, 2VZ-FE and 3VZ-FE; 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm) on 1MZ-FE engines.
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    Fig. Fig. 7: Thermostat installation-2VZ-FE and 3VZ-FE engines
    Don't forget to install a new O-ring onto the water inlet pipe. Apply soapy water to the O-ring prior to installation.
    1. Connect the lower radiator hose to the inlet housing and install the hose clamp. On the 3VZ-FE, tighten the bolt holding the water inlet hose to the alternator belt adjusting bar to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). On the 1MZ-FE engine, tighten the bolt retaining the water inlet pipe to the cylinder head to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
    2. Attach the water temperature switch connector.
    3. On the 1MZ-FE engines, install the heater hose removed.
    4. Install the oil filter and check the oil level if removed. Install the air cleaner cap assembly on the 1MZ-FE engines.
    5. Fill the cooling system with a good brand of ethylene glycol based coolant.
    6. Start the engine and inspect for leaks.

    continue...

    Sep 29, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Camry

    2 Answers

    Toyota tarago 2az fe motor


    Rustam.Where is the fuse for radio of 2003 toyota tarago

    Jul 05, 2008 | 2003 Toyota Camry

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