Question about Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hobart 60 quart mixer hub attachment not working.

The hub turns but as soon as an attachment is connected it stops turning.

Posted by on


1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 652 Answers

Level 3 DM

Posted on Dec 23, 2016


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

On dry roads the abs is coming on

bad abs sensor , front wheels . you didn't specify a year , so be prepared to be shocked by the price of the replacement hub assembly . yes , you have to replace the whole hub !

Feb 26, 2014 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

96 blazer made grinding noise in front end now noise stopped 4 wd wont work

What you want to do is engage the system and then kill the engine. This will work with electric hubs if you leave the keyswitch on.

With the front tires off the ground, a locked hub should turn the c-v joint and try to turn the front differential. If the transfer case is locked in 4x4 then the front driveshaft should be locked too. The differential is caught in the middle. It may have spider gears which can break, but if the c-v joint turns something is not connecting inside the front differential.

If the front hubs are Vacuum activated, you should be able to apply Vacuum and do the same test.

Sep 09, 2012 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Roar on the right side

Its probably the left side, not only because you replaced the right side, but because it changes on right turns.
When you go into a right turn, the bearings on the left side are under more pressure and torque.
The front hub bearing goes bad more often than the axle bearing, so I would expect it to be the left front.

Aug 02, 2012 | 2000 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

How do my half shafts connect to my hub

Is this a front wheel drive if so it has splines. Sounds like either you stripped the splines on the shaft or on the hub which is pretty hard to do. Considering it takes a puller to get it off and that nut with the cotter pin pretty much presses it on.

Jun 18, 2012 | 1996 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????

Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.

    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

How to open the bonnett for ford mondeo salon

Anti-clockwise quart of rotation turn the "Ford" blue symbol placed in the middle of radiator grill. Now you will see the bonnet locking hub. Insert and turn on the left direction the ignition key in the locking hub, and the safety mechanism of the bonnet will be unlocked! Now you can open the engine bonnet!

Mar 03, 2010 | 2005 Ford Focus

2 Answers

F250 2004 4x4 not working, vacuum holds on lines to hub, motor works on the shift motor (position sensor also seems to work as lights went off after I manually shifted out of 4x4), not sure if vacuum...

With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum

level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.

The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

You may want to check the center pin of the solenoid wiring connector for power.

Sep 02, 2009 | 2004 Ford F250

2 Answers

Hubs will not enguage when set to auto

the hubs on that truck are a vaccum controled hub, when the swithch is turned to 4x4 the vaccum control solenoid (on the fender) applys vaccum to the hub and locks- you can put a vaccum gauge on the hubs- if a leak is found thre is an o ring and an axle hub seal that needs to be replaced... if no leak is found at the hubs check the vac. lines and solenoid.goodluck

May 20, 2009 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

19 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts


Level 3 Expert

76848 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22246 Answers

Randy Ohler

Level 3 Expert

14585 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides