Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Dec 22, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there is a large nut that holds that hub on. Remove the cotter pin and the cap from the bolt... remove the bolt and the hub comes off.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
From Experience trying to clean the threads up usually results in just stripping the stud the rest of the way. Depending on how the car is set up (i.e. rear disc or rear drum brakes) replaceing the lug studs is fairly straight forward. All you need to do is remove the tire, remove either the brake drum or disc, and determine if you have room for removal and reinsertion of a new stud. If not determine what has to be removed to give you that room. Then comes the fun part. Take about a 2-3lb. hammer and knock the old one out. Yes, they just knock out. Then to instal the new one just set it in the hub where the old one came out, place a few washers that will fit over the knurled part at the base on the stud and the new lug nut and tighten it down til the back side if flat against the hub. Then just reinstall previously removed parts and you are done.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
They should be replaceable w/o pulling the axle. Imagine a common nail; you have the shank of the nail with its point and the flat head on the other end. Your lug stud looks a little like that except the part that comes through the axle flange. It is a little larger than the threaded part and has "lateral lines" machined into it to grip inside the flange. Otherwise it would spin either way when you tried to tighten or remove it. To get the broken ones out, use a high quality flat end punch and a hammer to drive them backwards (toward the center of your differential) and eventually out of the flange. Look for the area that will give you the most room so they will not hit aything while they are backe out of the flange. The new studs can be installed in the reverse manner. When you get them just barely started through the flange, use your fingers to twist them back and forth to "feel" for the grooves where the old stud was seated. Once you get it barely started in the grooves, grease the threads, slip an old 1/2 inch drive socket over the new stud (make sure it doesn't fit tight) slip on a thick flat washer or 2--3 thin ones, turn your lug nut around backwards so the tapered end faces out and begin to tighten it. Go slow, make sure the new stud pulls through the flange evenly. Take the nut, washers and socket off every now and then and look at your progress. When the back side of the stud is seated on the back of the flange, you're finished. Now, always grease the studs. ALL OF THEM, EVERY WHEEL. The monkeys that put on tires these days use impact wrenches and if you just have to let them do it, grease will help you loosen the nut if you have to and it will help prevent future failures. A DRY stud and nut causes a twisting motion to take place in the body of the stud when its tightened. This leads to premature metal fatigue.
Posted on May 03, 2009
You just have to hammer it out. and rotate the hub so you can get it out. then put the new 1 on and tighten a lug on it till it's locked in
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
I'll try to help you. If you are having trouble with 3 out of 5 studs on one wheel you may want to go to an autoparts store or Salvage yard to look at the whole hub. Usually a press is used to remove the bolts so you would be taking off the hub anyway. When you pay for 3 bolts and labor you may be better off in a Salvage yard or parts place for a different hub. The rear hub on front wheel drive cars is like a trailer axle. Much simpler to remove mounting bolts and press in new bolt. But if rear has differential(rear wheel drive) it has an axle shaft. Would be easier to grind and drill out broken stud on car. You can draw new bolt into place by placing bolt through a socket and use the wheel nut to draw the bolt into the hub.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
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