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Clutch gone on dispatch ,mechanic can't remove cross member as bolts are slipping and can't access top of bolt to secure , how do I get round this??

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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They can be ground off then replaced with new when reinstalling cross member

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1 Answer

How to remove bolts out of 2003 for removal of transmission


If you are talking about the two bolts on top of the bell housing. You will need a three foot extension with a swivel and 15 mm socket. To access the top bolts you need to put your jack with a piece of wood under the transmission pan, jack it up just enough so you can remove the rear cross member then slowly lower your jack supporting the trans. Until you see those top bolts approx. Three inches assuming you have removed all the other bolts on bell housing and the three bolts that attach the flywheel to the pumpkin.

Apr 25, 2014 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

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Cant remove top trans bolts


Most transmission shops have a transmission jack to support trans and they remove the rear cross member and trans mount lowering the trans down causes it to tilt giving you more room to access the upper bolts and with a 3 foot extension it is a lot easier to reach.

Nov 16, 2013 | 1996 Isuzu Trooper

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How do i drop the trans


Remove the Rear Drive Shaft
Remove the Transfer case if 4x4
Disconnect the Shift
Disconnect the Clutch Secondary
Floor Jack under the Transmission
Remove the Cross Member
Remove Bell House Bolts
Pull straight Back
Lower Down
6 Pressure Plate Bolts
Remove 6 Flywheel Bolts

*(Recommend replacing Rear Main Seal)

Resurface Flywheel
Reassemble

Apr 15, 2013 | 1991 Ford F250

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Replacing a clutch in my 1989 honda accord any helpful hints im not a wrench monkey im a girl and could us any helpful advice


I can give you the nutshell version, it takes a lot of umph, You have to pull the tarnny out, that means, disconnect thr drive shaft from the tarnny and let it drop or wire it up so it doesn't get in the way, remove the motor mounts but keep the tranny supported by a lift or a jack. remove the engine bolts, starter, battery cable first, when all bolts are off, cross members gone, linkage removed, clutch line removed, pull the tarnny back, you might need a bar or something to priy it out, pull it back, don't let it fall, keep it on the jack, let the jack down a hair as you go, once it on th eground, floor, pull it out of there, make sure you get the car high enough to work under and get the tranny down and out. Not, pull off the pressure plate, clutch, throwout bearing, remove flywheel, if it is cracked, glazed, rough, shot, have it turned, buy a new clutch, PP and bearing, Make sure you have the right clutch by trying it before you muscle that tranny back in. Bolt on the flywheel, PP, center up the clutch plate with a pin or dowel, bolt on the PP, muscle the tranny up and in, get it tight, bolt it up, hook up the linkage, clutch, drive shaft, anything else you took off, cross members, etc, you should be all set. Hope this helps.

Sep 22, 2010 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need to replace the transmission mount on a '94 1500 4.3L, 4X4. Which is easier, support the transmission and remove the cross member or release the engine mount bolts and raise the drive train? Tks


Supporting the transmission while removing the cross-member is easier. You will have the engine mount holding the whole thing in precise place, while you deal with the crossmember, and the transmission.

Comparing: if you release the engine mount bolts and jack up the drive-train, the whole thing would shift, and you could have trouble when the cross-member fails to go up well enough.

On the other hand, if the cross-member bolts fail to release due to "home-mechanic" syndrome, you have only the first option.

Dec 03, 2009 | 1994 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Knocking coming from under the extended cab from


There called torsion bar mount bushings, and will cost about $34.00 for both of them. Parts Source.

Jack up RH side of truck, crawl under LH side
  • 1 Remove nut from torsion bar mount stud that secures the mount to the cross-member. You'll have to feel for it, you won't be able to see it from below.
  • 2 Remove bottom two bolts. Easy, they're in plain view from below. Now the mount is free.
  • 3 Push up on cross member, remove old mount.
  • 4 Insert new mount - push up on cross member, slip mount in between frame and cross member. Drop hole in cross member over the stud.
  • 5 Loose assemble nut and two bolts. Torque down once other side is done.
Now over to the passenger side
  • 6 Jack up driver side of truck
  • 7 Repeat steps 1 and 2
  • 8 To get the mount out, try pushing up on the cross member, just like the driver side. If it comes out, great. I couldn't get the cross member up high enough on mine. I used a big screwdriver and ripped it out by separating the rubber from the metal plate. It came out in pieces.
  • 9 Install new mount. If you didn't have trouble getting the old one out, you probably won't have a problem getting the new one in. As I said, I did. I couldn't raise the cross member high enough to slip it in. Solution: whack 3/8" off the stud. You'll still have plenty left for the nut.
  • 10 Reinstall nut & bolts, torque down.
  • 11 Remove jack, Torque down drives side.
Good luck. The TRW's are one-piece urethane, (I think) and came with a lifetime guarantee. They'll probably outlast the vehicle.

Nov 15, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

Having trouble getting bolt on top of the transmission off to remove engine. Any suggestions?


3ft extention with swivel from under side.

your wrench may have to be back near the tail housing

or seperate the trans from the
cross(x) member and jack the trans up to make room for top access

or remove the x member to let the trans down til the tough bolts are out then replace
x member. careful not to stress any parts in the engine area.

Aug 07, 2009 | 2004 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

I need to replace the radiator on a 97 jeep laredo 8 cyl. It looks as if it needs to come out from the bottom. Is this correct?


Good Day;
no the rad is straight up and out: the following is removal of the rad

--access to rad drain **** remove the rad grill
--disconnect electric cooling fan electrical connector, if equipped
--if equipped remove two electric cooling fan mounting bolts. Lift cooling fan straight up until alignment tabs at the bottom are clear of the slots in the bracket at the bottom of rad
--remove the two mechanical (non-electrical) fan shroud mounting bolts, lift shroud straight up until alignment tabs at the bottom are clear of slots in the bracket at the bottom of rad. place shroud over the mechanical fan.
--if equipped disconnect and plug automatic transmission fluid cooler lines, quick connect fitting release tool may be needed. if equipped with a remote transmission cooler, remove the line to cooler from bracket at the bottom of rad.
--disconnect rad upper and lower hoses
--mark the position of the hood latch striker on the rad cross member and remove the striker
--remove the two upper rad upper cross member isolator nuts
--remove the four rad upper cross member bolts and remove the cross member.
--if equipped with air conditioning, separate rad from condenser by removing condenser-to-rad mounting brackets.
--lift the rad straight up and out of the eng compartment.
I hope this helps

Cheers

Jul 09, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Remove transmission 93 toyota pick up


You'll have to disconnect the cross member that holds everything in. Jack it (the motor) up first or it will fall out faster than you ever imagined.

Feb 13, 2009 | 1993 Toyota Pickup

4 Answers

CLUNKING NOISE FROM REAR AXLE


Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.

May 15, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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