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Upon reassembly of a dell 1747 laptop I have 2 separate grey wires with connectors.The shorter one loops around the empty wwan bay. The other runs over to the wlan bay. Where do these connect?

I don't recall where I disconnected these from or if I did as it been a while since I took it apart.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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I would always suggest checking belts, hoses, and fluids before taking any road trip.

Posted on Dec 21, 2016

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Can I bypass ac compressor on a 2004 dodge ram 5.7 hemi?


If you are referring to running the serpentine belt without the compressor, you might be able to, but you may have an awful time doing it!
Understand that cutting the compressor out of the loop may not be possible, unless you take the compressor completely off the engine, because sometimes it is " in the way" of a replacement shorter belt.
A cloth tape measure used by a seamstress or in sewing is a really good way to determine how long the shorter replacement belt needs to be, when you wrap it around the remaining pulleys.
God bless your efforts.

Nov 30, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

94 s10 fuel pump relay clicking no start


The clicking noise at the relay indicates that the relay is bad, or that the wires to the relay and/or connector is bad.

A relay is an electronically activated switch. Inside is a coil. When 12v+ is applied to one end of the coil, and a ground is applied to the other end, the coil gets charged, creating a magnetic field. This magnetic field literally moves a metal lever from position A to position B. One end of the lever is attached to constant battery power. When coil not energized, the lever rests in postion A (which in the case of the fuel pump relay is feeding the battery power to an unused terminal). When the coil is activated, the lever moves to position B (which in this case is a terminal connected to your fuel pump wire). Thus, when the relay is activated, 12v+ is being directed from the battery to the fuel pump.

This fast clicking indicates that the relay coil is not getting a constant voltage or ground supplied to it, thus the lever is moving back and forth between position A and position B, either there is a wiring issue, a connector issue, or an internal issue with the relay.
The relay has 4 wires, black, grey, orange, green with white stripe.
black = ground
orange = battery = 12v+ always
grey = wire out to fuel pump (on some cars this wire is tan with white stripe)
green/white = signal wire from ECM

When key is turned ON, the ECM sends 12v+ out on the green/white wire to the relay for about 2 seconds - this activates the relay coil for 2 seconds, thus running the pump for 2 seconds (priming). When the vehicle is started, the ECM sees a constant ignition signal from the ignition module, and sends a constant 12v+ out on the green/white wire, thus activating the relay coil constantly, and thus running the pump constantly.
When car shut off, no more constant ignition signal, thus ECM stops sending the 12v+ out on the green/white wire.
So, you can kind of test your connector ...
1) remove connector from relay
2) jumper a wire from the slot for the orange wire to the slot for the grey wire - fuel pump should run - wiggle wires to verify at connector
3) probe black wire slot with ohm meter - make sure black wire has constant ground - wiggle wires at connector
test relay ...
1) remove relay from connector
2) rig a ground wire to the tab that had the black wire when in connector
3) apply 12v+ to the tab that had the green/white wire - relay should click once and do this every time you apply the 12v+

That should help you track it down to either a connector problem, a wiring problem, or a relay problem.

Nov 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Installing 2009 Pontiac G8 6 way seats into a '69 Chevelle. There are 4 electrical connecters- I want to be sure and not power up airbags.


This does't make since? You are putting 09 seats in a 69? Air bags don't come in to play. you shouldn't have a problem, beside mounting the seats. Bolt pattern...

Dec 31, 2014 | 2009 Pontiac G8

1 Answer

Air conditoner works when connected to battery grand marqui 1997


If you are jumping the A/C clutch with a separate power supply there are 2 cut off switches in the system. They are used to protect the system and work with either high or low pressure.

You need to pressure test the system, idle engine speed, and bypass the low pressure cutoff to see what the readings are.

Sometimes the low pressure switch will get weak and work too early. It can be changed without losing much Freon. Put a wire loop in the harness connector after removing the harness from the switch and bypass it with the engine running. Do not let the wire loop operate withut the engine running.

There are a variety of Freon mix products to chose from. Something with a sealer and conditioner would probably be good.

As for the pressure, moderation is best. You want the compressor to run the longest for the best cooling. So a charge maintaining a pressure midway between the 2 pressure switches will work best.

If you have applied 12 volts to the system some other way, I can not imagine what was done.

Mar 30, 2013 | 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

2000 chevy tahoe speaker wiring


This will depend on whether it's a Bose system, or not.
Non-Bose AC/Delco radioFront Speakers are:L. (-) Light GrayL. (+) TanR. (-) Lt. GreenR. (+) Dk. Green
Rear:L. (-)YellowL. (+)BrownR. (-)Lt. BlueR. (+)Dk. Blue
Be sure to test the connections, as you will notice that there are 2 Yellow wires, 2 Brown wires and 2 grey wires behind the factory radio.

GM pairs all the speakers into separate 4-pin plugs for front and rear. If the factory harness is intact, I'd suggest just getting wire harness adapter from any of your local car audio shops, you'll also need a GM mini antenna adapter, if you are hooking up a new stereo.

Jun 05, 2012 | Chevrolet Tahoe Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace a knock sensor on a 2006 volkswagen beetle


On a 2006 VW Beetle 2.5L 5 cylinder ( here in USA) have 2 knock sensors.The connector colors are green and grey and mounted staggered near each other at the rear of engine. Both sensor have wire leads running together through the same wiring tubing under exhaust manifold which necessitated removing 2 metal shields just to be able to see them (One around right axle boot ,2 bolts and one below exhaust manifold has 3 bolts. I had to take off another bracket that attaches the knock sensors wire routing tube and remove both knock sensors with it as an assembly to unsnap the tubing insulation and tubing releases on bench just to see what connector color corresponds to the sensor that needs to be replaced. On my 2.5 application the sensor with the green connector had the longer lead and mounted more forward on right side of engine facing firewall, than the more rearward mounted sensor with shorter lead with grey connector.
The knock sensor bolt torque is 20 NM. I need to still verify that the #2 knock sensor is the more rearward one , has the grey connector with shorter lead because this Farf@cknuugen POS stuff isn't always what you assume it to be LOL

Aug 11, 2011 | Volkswagen Beetle Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a p1646 code on my jaguar x type i have changed the broken sensor and ping engine check light *** bk on can u please help its driving me mad


I would have the code checked again if it is still 1646 then you need to check the connector and wiring for this sensor.

Just to confirm that the sensor you changed is the rear (near the engine bay bulkhead) upstream (upper sensor of the two) , in most cases a grey connector.

Jun 14, 2011 | 2003 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

Ground shielding wire for needle lift sensor?


Shielding wires are always only connected at one end. Connecting at both ends substantially reduces the protection offered.

Jun 10, 2009 | 2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

O2 sensor install question


The O2 sensor connectors are a straight-in push and snap-lock design. Are you sure you've got the right connector? On the passenger side, look along the main intake manifold collector, just below it, halfway back, and you'll see two connectors on a bracket. You can also see the O2 sensor down in the exhaust header, so you can follow the wire up to see which connector is the correct one. Best way to separate them is what you're doing - slide the connector off the mounting bracket and then undo it - it just takes some swearing at it and the use of a small flat-blade screwdriver to separate the clip.

The driver's side connector is at the top of the engine, at the back, mounted with an identical connector next to it. Same deal there - remove from the bracket (just slide it sideways), swear at it while prying, and it'll disconnect. Because of the heat in the Z's engine bay, sometimes those connectors will stick, but there are no real tricks to it - they unclip and separate. Yours are sticking due to heat exposure. Just keep at it and you'll get them.

Aug 19, 2008 | 1990 Nissan 300ZX

1 Answer

Actually its a 1985 240 dl


I have had simular problems It took about a year to find.
What I found is as these volvos get old you start to run into electrical problem such as the plastic insulation begins to go stiff & hard. What happens is the wire in hot areas in engine bay develop cracks in the insulations & the copper wire gets contaminated & breaks. The wire looks perfect but under load or movement you run into intermittent faults.
How do you find the fault!!
Well wiggle the wiring loom in the engine bay very carefully while engine is running & look for stiff & damaged wires.
If your very keen its a very big job from the grey multiway connector on the fire wall just above & behind the engine replace all the suspect wires down to the engine. Not recomended unless your confident & you have a copy of the wiring loom.

Jul 01, 2008 | 1984 Volvo 240 Series

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