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Why there is no power at the coil tan color wire?

I check for power at the coil key on with a test light i connect the clip to the negative side of battry and the pointed to the tan wire at the coil it show power at the first test but now it show no power on the tan wire at the coil what i need to check to get power at the tan wire again? and then i turn the key off i connect the clip to the positive side of the battry and the pointed to the black wire on the coil it show power why it show power at ground? do it suppose to have power at the wires at the cranksensor with key on?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 93 nissan hardbody park light wiring

ground ur test light and turn on the light test the wires and find the hot one then hook the hot one to the one that goes to the center of the bulb and hook the other to the ground side

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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johnny5846
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SOURCE: need color code for Ford Focus 2003 Passive Anti Theft sys.

GREAT , glad to hear it . J5

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 1976 mgb w/cat converter please

I have the same model year as yours, but that does not really matter. If you go to the back of your Haynes manual, the wiring color codes are spelled out for you specific to your car, It is possible that a new or rebuilt starter can be stuck (clearances on starter gear/and shaft) or that you somehow bolted it in slightly askew and it is stuck or cannot move properly. Spot check the ring gear teeth by looking through the starter hole to see if they are o.k. and that the gear on the starter seems correct.  Also, look around and check and make sure the ground strap is good (motor to body) or any ground for that matter Sometimes, if a motor or starter motor is in a locked rotor condition this will cause a heat rise. It might be a good idea to remove it and energize it with jumper cables from the battery-- (a bench test) to verify actuation. (spin)  Then wipe the grease of the leads (so you can read your color code) and carefully connect them to the terminals as the wiring diagram tells you in the Haynes manual.
MattJJ

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: no spark at any spark plugs.

Test the pickup with test meter.

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1985 4.1 cad coup deville I. replaced the

OK, There should not be a "Tan" wire there. It is probably the "Red" or "Orange" wire that has faded real bad and just looks tan. It goes on the same post as the large black battery cable. It should be a 10 gauge wire. The other end of that wire goes to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator. (in case you want to check and make sure) The smaller black wires should be ground wires, They will attach to the transmission housing. Usually, there is a special bolt with a stud made on the end of it and a nut that secures the wires. As you said, the purple wire goes to the small post on the starter solenoid.

Posted on May 09, 2011

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Changed ignition coil 4 still have misfires


Pull they coil plug. Put a wire or paper clip one one side, connect a test light to it. Start the engine and put the test light to the other pin. It should blink on and off. If it doesn't check the plug. Wires tend to break close to the plug. Take the light and hook it to the negative side of the battery. With the key on. one of the wires should have power to it.

Apr 22, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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All power windows don't work


Dealers-hmmph.
You may have to keep looking for another broken wire. To the driver's master switch, a tan wire looks like the hot wire (feed) for the switch. And a black wire is ground, originating at the master switch and going back into the cabin with the wire harness, and then to a nearby ground source, probably behind the left kick panel. If you pull the master switch off, key on,, check for power on the tan wire terminal of the switch connector. Use a test light or a voltmeter. Now if you have a hot wire on the connector, put one volt meter lead on the hot wire terminal and the negative lead onto the black wire terminal. If ground is good, voltmeter will read battery voltage. If ground is lost, voltmeter will show nothing. Same with test light-check for a hot wire with key on. If yes, put test light lead on hot wire and use probe to touch ground-if ground is good, tester will light up. Alternatively, you could remove the left kick panel and check the security of the ground to frame there.
The only place I know for a wiring diagram would be a repair manual. Haynes manuals are about the best (about $25 at parts stores), short of a factory service manual for big bucks.
If still no luck with windows, and no hot wire with key on, pull the circuit breaker for the windows on the fuse panel under dash. With key on,. one of those terminals for the circuit breaker should show power. Ground a test light and probe both terminals to check for power. If no power there, check under hood fuses or fuse links that feed the fuse box. If CB has power available, well, that's the feed for the tan wire-sounds like either the tan wire or the black ground wire may have a break. If power to switch, check ground wire.
As a last resort, try a new circuit breaker if powered at CB terminal but nothing at driver's switch. If power is to switch on tan wire, and ground is working, consider that you may have gotten a defective master switch-not likely, but known to happen.

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How do I install a Sunpro Super tach 3 in a 1987 Mustang 5.0


The Black wire will connect to body ground, and it should be a good solid ground and if this wire is not grounded well then you might receive a primary voltage shock if you touch anything that is metal or grounded inside of the vehicle when the engine is running.

The Red wire should be connected to power when the key is in the "Run" position only, and a good place to find that source is one of the "IGN" connections at the fuse panel using a covered female spade connector. Use a test light and be certain that the connection only has power when the key is in the "Run" position, and has no power when the key is in the "Off" or "Accessory" position.

The White or Yellow wire should connect to the "LPS" connection at the fuse panel next to the LPS fuse using a covered female spade connector.

The Green wire will connect to the "-" negative side of the ignition coil or to the "Tach" or "Test" lead that runs from the negative side of the ignition coil. To locate the lead run down the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and the lead should break off from that wire and it should have a tag on the wire that will say either "Tach" or "Test" (sometimes it is just an empty black wire connector) and that is if the lead does not come straight off from the wire connector at the ignition coil. If there is no lead you can get a wire tap connector to tap into the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and then use a covered male spade connector to connect the Green wire from the tachometer to the wire tap connector.

Here is a diagram to help assist you and if you can not download the image right click on the image and then select "save picture as..." or "save image as..." and from your image viewer you should be able to read this diagram or print it out, and let me know if you require any further assistance.


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1 Answer

Need to know how to hook up a tachometer with a shift light on it there are four wires


The Black wire will connect to body ground, and it should be a good solid ground and if this wire is not grounded well then you might receive a primary voltage shock if you touch anything that is metal or grounded inside of the vehicle when the engine is running.

The Red wire should be connected to power when the key is in the "Run" position only, and a good place to find that source is one of the "IGN" connections at the fuse panel using a covered female spade connector. Use a test light and be certain that the connection only has power when the key is in the "Run" position, and has no power when the key is in the "Off" or "Accy" position.

The White or Yellow wire should connect to the "LPS" connection at the fuse panel next to the LPS fuse using a covered female spade connector.

The Green wire will connect to the "-" negative side of the ignition coil or the primary side of the ignition coil, and for later model GM HEI equipped vehicles this will be the "Tach" connection next to the main "Bat" connection on the distributor cap if the ignition coil is mounted inside of the distributor cap, or to the "Tach" or "Test" lead that runs from the negative side of the ignition coil if the ignition coil is mounted separate from the distributor. To locate the lead run down the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and the lead should break off from that wire and it should have a tag on the wire that will say either "Tach" or "Test" (sometimes it is just an empty black wire connector) and that is if the lead does not come straight off from the wire connector at the ignition coil. If there is no lead you can get a wire tap connector to tap into the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and then use a covered male spade connector to connect the Green wire from the tachometer to the wire tap connector.

Here is a diagram to help assist you although it might be hard to make it out, and let me know if you require any further assistance.



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Aug 06, 2010 | 1986 Chevrolet C1500

2 Answers

Getting 12V on the ground wire to the coil. Any


the coil has two wires. one side is hot 12 volts the other side is the side that is pulsed to ground to create the magnetic field to induce high voltage.. with the key on not running you should see voltage on both wires... disconnect the plug from coil and recheck you will have power only on one wire that is the hot wire.. hook back the plug now take your test light ground clip and clip it to the positive terminal on battery. then back probe the wire to be pulsed.. have some one crank jeep and you look at test light.. looking for kinda dimm flash... if so that tell you you should have spark if not the bad coil.. if you don't see flash then probable bad pick up/... let me know

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Well let me give you a brief understanding of the electrical ignition system.

The PCM controls the ground circuit for the ignition coil ground circuit. So basically the PCM determines when to open and close the ground circuit for each individual ignition coil, therefore making it give power to the spark plug or not.

The ignition coils get there power from a power distribution center which as an ASD (Automatic Shut Down) Relay located inside of it. So your problem may lay within this.

Also, like you said, you may need to check the crankshaft and camshaft sensors because they give information to the PCM which then calculates the best timing for the system.

To check the crankshaft sensor first check the harness and test to see if the sensor is getting 5.0 volts. To do this you need to connect the positive end of a voltmeter to the orange wire terminal and the negative lead the the black/lt blue wire terminal at the harness connector. Then turn on the ignition and check the voltage. If voltage isn't right check the wiring between the PCM and the sensor.

If you are getting the correct voltage next check the sensor itself. You need to reconnect the harness to the sensor and you need an analog voltmeter. Then you need to backprobe the harness, which is sliding the probes from the meter into the wire side of the harness, if you meter has clips then get a sharp pin and slide into the harness and clip the meter to the pin.

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With the sensor connected, backprobe the gray/black wire terminal of the sensor connector to the positive lead on the analog meter and the negative lead connects to an engine ground. Turn the ignition key On and with a breaker bar and sockey manually turn the crankshaft clockwise. Do one full revolution and keep an eye on the meter, if you get readings of 5.0 volts then the sensor is good if not replace the sensor.

Checking the Camshaft Position Sensor

Again check the harness for the sensor first. The positive lead of an analog voltmeter connects to the orange wire terminal and the negative lead to the black/lt blue wire terminal. Turn ignition on and you should get approx. 5.0 volts. If voltage is incorrect check the wiring.

If wiring the harness is giving adequate power now check the sensor. Its the same idea used to check the crankshaft sensor but this time connect the power lead of the meter to the backprobe connected to the tan/yellow wire terminal and the ground lead to a good ground. Turn ignition On position and manual turn the crankshaft clockwise a full revolution while also checking for the meter to fluctuate between 0.0 and 5.0 volts. If you don't get the proper reading then the sensor is bad.

This should help solve your problem.

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1 Answer

97 saturn sl1 drove in fine, won't start just crank. no spark


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jan 12, 2009 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

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the yellow blue is the + side of coil but to be safe get a test light connect one end to the negative side of battery or a good clean earth on the engine turn ignition. Check which wire has power .The one with power is for the + side of coil . Check test light on battery to make sure it works

Dec 27, 2008 | 2007 Ford F

1 Answer

AFTERMARKET REPLACEMENT FOR AUTO ANTENNA


sounds simple
placement of antenna is important this will determine which wires to use
most antenas are in the trunk of vehicle with a wire clip to connect or disconnect
tools needed
test light
find your wire clip running from old antena this will be where test light will be used one side of clip is full powered the other is key powered find good ground tip the test light on first prong light stays on this is full power other will be key powered

now your looking for the simple color wires ok on the back of your sterio there is an atenna wire which is blue this will power on only when sterio is on the other wire
you use test light to find without key in take your test light and find a permannent powered full on wire hot supply then connect antenna into these 2 things

at top the reason i mentioned this is cause the old power antena you can find the right leads in the trunk area where new antenna going to be placed with the test light you might need a second person to help you testing wires you in the back and them in the front turning the key on when you need it it makes things simpler with 2 people
i hope this helped you in your quest for knowledge

May 31, 2008 | 1990 Toyota Celica

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