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I can't remove the spray head. How can I loosen it? It seems to be stuck.

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I. Need. Help. With. Cam bolts. And head bolts


Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed
  • Eye protection
  • Gloves
  • Oil and coolant drain
  • Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
  • Shop rags
  • Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
    Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
    Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
    Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

    Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

    Materials Needed
    • Head bolt socket (if needed)
    • Numbered cardboard
    • Rubber hammer
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
      The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
      Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
      Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
      Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
      Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
      The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
      Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
      • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

      Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

      Material Needed
      • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
        This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
        Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
        Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
        Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
        Loosen head bolts ΒΌ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
        Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
        • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
        Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

Sep 29, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Starter. Hyundai santa fe v6 2wd 2002. Took out bolt and nut but starter seems stuck in place. Tried a hammer to knock it out of place. Doesnt seem to wanna slide out. No budge or movement. Sprayed wd40...


Check for another mounting bolt Some engines have a bolt from the backside into the starter-some Toyotas and Hondas do. And sometimes a mounting bolt is towards the inside of the starter, possibly hidden from sight by the starter solenoid.

May 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ler03836@rear hatch will not open lock seems to be releasing. almost think that something may be stuck at striker plate?


Had the same problem removed the hatch interior panel, removed a little grim from the working parts, loosened the 10mm bolt securing the lock motor, manually worked all the parts and sprayed a bit of wd-40. Its been about a week and no problems since. I did this because of two problems 1 using the remote the lock wouldn't fully disengage (but could hear it working) and 2 would also encounter problems trying to manually unlock with the key.
02 xterra 4x4 SE

Aug 29, 2011 | 2002 Nissan Xterra

2 Answers

2000 ford explorer 4.0 top starter bolt frozen in bell housing,cannot move,bottom one came out by hand,top one broke loose turned 1/8 turn and now cannot move,tried some heat with a propane torch no...


I would try spraying some WD-40 on the bolt, and try to tighten it, loosen it, tighten and loosen it, don't spare the WD-40. Ford Trucks and some Ford Cars seem to have this problem alot.

May 12, 2010 | 2000 Ford Explorer

3 Answers

Seat belt stuck on 1995 850 volvo


I solved this on my 95 volvo 850 glt as follows:

pull the seatbelt pilar cover off from the door jamb. this runs vertically up the pilar between the front an back door (beside the front seats. Once opened loosen the belt by gently pulling the belt upward toward the roof. You'll have to do this sometimes in small increments. Once the seatbelt is pulled out all the way, spray small amount of lubricant into the joint where at the top of the belt spool. Also use a screw driver to push spool upward while pulling the belt. At first it's only going to release a little but eventually the lubricant will work its way into the seam at the top of the belt spool and loosen up the stuck inertia catch. Until it completely loosens you might have to remove the pilar cover again and work the seatbelt out (also use the screw driver technique described above) in order to use the seatbelt. When parking, I would relatch the seatbelt and pull the slack up around the back of the head rest. After a day or so it worked normally.

Dec 31, 2009 | 1996 Volvo 850

2 Answers

Problems removing rear brakes on a volvo s40 2001


Due to the heat cause when breaking it can be difficult to remove so the best thing to do is leave the spray to penetrate for about ten minutes then go back and carefully apply pressure with a ratchet rather than a spanner.

Apr 28, 2009 | 2001 Volvo S40

1 Answer

I am trying to remove the lug nut stud plate to replace the lug nut studs.


If you have the time let it sit overnight or longer, giving it another spray occasionally. It works best when it's given time to soak in. 2 other ways to remove that have worked for me. Get someone to help for this. While putting pressure (to loosen) on a breaker bar w/ socket, have someone give the top of the socket a good whack with a hammer. Try several times, it may break it free. 2nd way is to put socket and breaker bar on and with a couple of firm hits on the end (handle end) of breaker bar, hit in the tighten direction, then do the loosen direction. This can also break it free. Best way is with an air gun. I can't believe how easy bolts come off that seemed impossible when doing it with just human power.

Apr 18, 2009 | 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix

2 Answers

Belt replacement


there should be an idler pully, one that doesn't drive anything mounted to a flat black bracket that is then bolted to your engine. That pulley has a 14 or 15 mm nut in the middle of the pulley. loosen it, but don't remove it. Behind the pulley on the bracket is a small bolt head. that will loosen the pulley shaft, allowing you to remove the belt. The bolt also may be on the underside, but it's there around that pulley on the bracket. Also be careful the bolt isn't seized, if it snapps you will have a very hard time getting the tension back on the new belt. You may want to spray it first when you find it. You may also need to remove another belt if there's one infront of it, like an a/c belt or alternator belt, loosening the alternator to remove the belt. It's very tight, and it may help to remove the wheel and plastic inner fender sheild, using a pair of needle nose pliers to gently remove the pop snaps.

Dec 14, 2008 | 1990 Acura Integra Hatchback

1 Answer

Motor problems


pull the valve cover and pry the valves dont but do not force. you can use some WD40 and spray and try to get it loose
and if it doesnt come loose your that much closer to removing the head

Aug 26, 2008 | 1988 Ford Escort EXP

1 Answer

Threads to spark plug stuck in head "95 acura integra ls motor"


Spray a good penetrating oil at the base of the plug. I use PB Blaster. Slowly try working the plug loose. I like to start the engine and let run for a minute so the head gets hot and spray the lubricant and while the head is still warm, try to remove the stuck plug. By getting the head warm, it allows the aluminum to expand a little.

Jul 13, 2008 | 1995 Acura Integra Coupe

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