Question about Cars & Trucks
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: what is the procedure to
You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.
Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.
Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
SOURCE: 94 Geo Prizm CV or driveaxle?
on this type of vehichle, you have two axles in the front; one going to each side. Chances are that the boot at the axle joint was torn and that is why you are having problem. In teh past people used to replace the boot, this day and age its actually cheaper to replace the axle. So you would need to replace that side of the axle (the half shaft).
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
have you undone the main hub bolt, if yes, there could be two different items holding the cv joint on, one is a small circlip in the joint end, or the other is just like an expanding metal ring again only small. what i had to do to change my one was take the driveshaft out (easier to see whats there) then gently (rubber hammer) hit the CV joint it should then fall off to allow you to change the CV joint. I spent over an hour trying to get the metal ring off, then after taking driveshaft off it was changed and back on in ten mins. Or you can go to a motor factors or similar and get a boot puller, my opinion hammer works better lol
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
Assuming you have the spindle off - you need a pry bar between the inner mount and the transaxle. Give it a bit of a snap as it is held in with a lock ring around the spline. Note the gap - when replacing it - pop it in fairly well till you feel the snap ring lock back into position. If you are replacing it - inspect the new one - the lock ring should already be installed.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
SOURCE: cv axle 4x4 diferencial
Make sure 2- wheel drive is selected.
Jack up the vehicle front and support on axle stands. Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper. It bolts onto the hub carrier(aka knuckle) with 2 bolts from the vehicle side of the carrier so you cant see them without sticking your head into the wheel arch. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hub and hang it with a piece of wire inside the wheel arch. Dont let it hang on the pipe it is connected to. The caliper may be difficult to remove if the rotor has a ridge on its outer edge due to wear.
Remove ABS speed sensor(2 bolts to remove) behind the hub
Next comes the hub assembly. :
Remember to preload the wheel bearing on reassembly. Tighten the hubnut to 29 N.m. then loosen fully. Tighten again by hand. Connect a spring scale to the wheel stud. Pulling on the scale in the direction of rotation should give a reading of 2-2.5 kg/4.4-5.5 lb(new bearing) or 1.2-1.8kg/2.6-4 lb(used bearing) when the rotor starts to move. If it does not, tighten the hub nut a littl and measure again. Repeat till the correct measurement is achieved. See diagram.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 20, 2013 | 1998 Mercury Mountaineer
Apr 21, 2011 | 1999 Ford Taurus
Mar 11, 2011 | 2008 Toyota Tundra
Feb 27, 2011 | 2003 Dodge Caravan
Aug 13, 2010 | Mazda Protege Cars & Trucks
Aug 05, 2009 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks
May 06, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Metro
Nov 19, 2008 | 1994 Geo Prizm
16 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!