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How replace cv axle on passener side - Cars & Trucks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

2tone2
  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: what is the procedure to

You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.



Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
Removal Procedure

  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
  2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
  3. Place shop towels underneath the outer joint to protect from any sharp edges.

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  5. Insert a drift (1) into the caliper and the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
  6. Remove the drive axle nut (2) and the washer.
  7. Remove the lower ball join from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. If you remove the right axle, turn the wheel to the left. If you remove the left axle, turn the wheel to the right.
  8. Disconnect the wheel speed speed sensor harness. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in Antilock Brake System.
  9. Disconnect the stabilizer link from the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.

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  11. Use the J 28733-B in order to disengage the axle from the hub and the bearing.
  12. Separate the hub and the bearing assembly from the drive axle. Move the strut and the knuckle assembly rearward.

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  14. Remove the inner joint from the transaxle using J 33008 attached to J 29794 and J 2619-01 for the intermediate shaft, if equipped.
Installation Procedure Notice: Prior to installation of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during installation.
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.

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  1. Install the drive axle (2) into the transaxle (1). Place a non-ferrous drift into the groove on the joint housing and then tap until the drift is seated. Be careful not to damage the axle seal or dislodge the seal garter spring when you install the axle.

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    Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.
  3. Install the drive axle (1) into the hub and bearing assembly (2).
  4. Install the stabilizer link. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.
  5. Connect the wheel speed sensor harness. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in Antilock Brake System.
  6. Install the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.

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    Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
  8. Install the washer and the new drive axle nut (2).
  9. Insert a drift (1) into the caliper and the rotor in order to prevent the rotor from turning.
    Tighten
    Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).
  10. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
  11. Lower the vehicle

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: 94 Geo Prizm CV or driveaxle?

on this type of vehichle, you have two axles in the front; one going to each side. Chances are that the boot at the axle joint was torn and that is why you are having problem. In teh past people used to replace the boot, this day and age its actually cheaper to replace the axle. So you would need to replace that side of the axle (the half shaft).

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: 97 toyota celica outer cv boot replacement passenger side

have you undone the main hub bolt, if yes, there could be two different items holding the cv joint on, one is a small circlip in the joint end, or the other is just like an expanding metal ring again only small. what i had to do to change my one was take the driveshaft out (easier to see whats there) then gently (rubber hammer) hit the CV joint it should then fall off to allow you to change the CV joint. I spent over an hour trying to get the metal ring off, then after taking driveshaft off it was changed and back on in ten mins. Or you can go to a motor factors or similar and get a boot puller, my opinion hammer works better lol

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • 239 Answers

SOURCE: need help removing right side cv axle on 94 toyota

Assuming you have the spindle off - you need a pry bar between the inner mount and the transaxle. Give it a bit of a snap as it is held in with a lock ring around the spline. Note the gap - when replacing it - pop it in fairly well till you feel the snap ring lock back into position. If you are replacing it - inspect the new one - the lock ring should already be installed.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

Suzman
  • 642 Answers

SOURCE: cv axle 4x4 diferencial

Make sure 2- wheel drive is selected.
Jack up the vehicle front and support on axle stands. Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper. It bolts onto the hub carrier(aka knuckle) with 2 bolts from the vehicle side of the carrier so you cant see them without sticking your head into the wheel arch. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hub and hang it with a piece of wire inside the wheel arch. Dont let it hang on the pipe it is connected to. The caliper may be difficult to remove if the rotor has a ridge on its outer edge due to wear.
Remove ABS speed sensor(2 bolts to remove) behind the hub
Next comes the hub assembly. :

  • Shift on the fly:Remove 6 bolts on the cap then the cap itself. Next the snap ring/circlip and the shim behind it.(On the piece of shaft now visible) and then you can pull off the hub flange. Remove the screw on the lock washer and then the washer itself. Remove the hub nut.The hub assembly(with rotor) will now pull off the shaft. Remove inner bearing and oil seal.
  • Manual hub: Select transmission 2H and "Free" on the hub. and run the vehicle about 100 m/300 ft.Remove 6 bolts on the cap then the cap itself. Next the snap ring/circlip and the shim behind it. Remove body assembly.
Remove the bottom ball joint on the hub carrier.(Ball joint removal tool may be needed to free the ball joint. Dont go hammering it. That will damage the thread) Swing the carrier upwards and you should have just enough free space to pull the shaft from the hub carrier. If not remove the top balljoint as well. Remove the clamp/SS strip from the inner CV rubber boot. Pull the boot back on the shaft. Remove the circlip from inside the DOJ case. The shaft can now be pulled from the DOJ case.
Remember to preload the wheel bearing on reassembly. Tighten the hubnut to 29 N.m. then loosen fully. Tighten again by hand. Connect a spring scale to the wheel stud. Pulling on the scale in the direction of rotation should give a reading of 2-2.5 kg/4.4-5.5 lb(new bearing) or 1.2-1.8kg/2.6-4 lb(used bearing) when the rotor starts to move. If it does not, tighten the hub nut a littl and measure again. Repeat till the correct measurement is achieved. See diagram.

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Posted on Jul 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Cv axle grease


You have to replace the worn axle assy on that side
No way to grease it- unless you remove the axle &
dissassemble it & wash it clean first
Surely a load grinding noise tells you the problem is
well beyond any greasing.
You can only remove the axle,wash it out & grease it,
if the boot rips & you get it apart in a day or so,otherwise
road grit will destroy the axle before you know you have
an open joint from a boot issue
On a 1998-- I would do both sides & be done with the axles

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1999 ford taurus cv axle- i'm replacing my passager side cv axle and i've got to prying the inner spindle loose, but i just can't seem to get it loose. any help?? is there a puller of some sort i can get...


These cv axles on that side are always a pain. I don't know of any to buy. I have made a few, but it is just as easy to use a pry bar. They always pop out sooner or later. Just keep trying. Sorry

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The front left wheel makes a terrible grinding popping sound when I turn the wheel to the left. It also seems to be driving a little "weird", kind of "mushy" and loose. There is a boot...


That a CV joint you're describing. That boot protects bearing from dirt getting in and grease from getting out. You don't have to hit anything, they split with age, deteriorate and sometimes actually twist on shaft and gives the appearance like you smacked something. Replace or have someone replace CV joint and boot on that wheel and you should be good to go.

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check your axles, for an open cv boot, this clicking is on straigth or turning, if turming to your rigth you hear noise to be louder on your left then your left axle is bad, do the same to your left and if noise exists then your rigth axle is bad.good luck

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I cannot see it, but I am guessing that you need to replace your axle seal. To do this,you have to pull your CV shaft out. Remove the tire, remove the caliper from the top of the rotor. Using a hammer on the back, remove the rotor. Take off the spindle (axle) nut, separate the axle (CV shaft) from the hub. Replace seal. It should pop right out. Good luck!

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Hi, your axles on the metro are actually called half shafts, any larger name parts house can order them for you. Call them with the Make, Year, and Model and they will take care of you. you will need to tell them,drivers side or passengers side. Hope this helps!

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94 Geo Prizm CV or driveaxle?


on this type of vehichle, you have two axles in the front; one going to each side. Chances are that the boot at the axle joint was torn and that is why you are having problem. In teh past people used to replace the boot, this day and age its actually cheaper to replace the axle. So you would need to replace that side of the axle (the half shaft).

Nov 19, 2008 | 1994 Geo Prizm

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