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Have there been any driveability or performance issues with the vehicle, have there been any recent repairs or tune-up work performed, if so was the check engine light reset and were the codes recorded on previous repair orders.
Do not rely on scan tool data alone. In most applications, the customer will have the check engine light reset prior to repair. If the original cause of converter failure is intermittent, only the catalyst failure code may show up
You may want to do some more research on this one. The code means the cold start-warm up cycle did not produce the expected emission reading. The computer controls idle speed and spark timing to warm up the engine as quickly as possible. Could be a list of things such as the air filter, thermostat, intake leaks, and so on.
Hi there: The E1 error code means the CD is upside down, dirty, or the wrong data format (CD-DA)
If you have tried several other disks and are having the same error message you can try to clean the optics with compressed air in a can like dust-off. If that does not resolve the problem you will have to contact an authorized service center for repair.
P1135 is Air/Fuel sensor Heater Circuit these are because cylinders 1,3,and 5 are not firing which also causes
code P0125 .These cylinders are not making heat. the P0300 is because
1,3,and 5 dont miss constantly but they do frequently hence 301,303,and
305. P codes are for Powertrain. I would give the vehicle a good tuneup and make sure you are firing on all cylinders. Possibly need new O2 sensors
if those codes don't go away(1130 & 1135) The definitions you DO
have are correct. The P0125 "closed loop fuel control" thing is
referring about your vehicle no longer being in "warm up" mode. In warm
up mode you vehicle does not rely on sensors, it just follows default
values for a specific length of time to warm up the engine, then it will
adjust everything according to the sensors's inputs to the computer on
WELL IS YOU COOLANT LEVEL RIGHT AND IF SO WHEN TRUCK IS WARMING UP CHECK THE RAD HOSE'S AND SEE IF THE LOWER ONE IS GETING WARM ARE NOT OR IF THE TOP IS COLD BUT I WOULD START WITH THERMOSTAT IT'S SOUNDE LIKE IT IS COUSE FLOW ISUSSE HOPE THIS HELPS BUT IF BOTH HOSE ARE HOT AND YOU TOUCHE HEATER HOSE ONE HOT THE OTHER IS NOT THEN IT COULD BE HEATER CORE ISUSES
The secondary air bag warning is an audible fault format that consists of five sets of five tone bursts, with each set of five tone bursts separated by a five second quiet period. One tone burst cycle will consist of one second ON and one second OFF. This series of five activations is repeated every 30 minutes.
This will tone if the air bag indicator is inoperative.
Suggest to have the dealer or someone with a scan tool that will communicate with the restraint system retrieve codes.