Question about 1994 Chevrolet G20

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Front left brake keeps locking up

I have a 94 G20 van, The anti-lock brake light is on and the front left brake keeps locking up, I can open the bleeder valve and let the pressure off but if i hit the brakes hard it will lock again

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I suspect that you have a bad caliper which is sticking. look there first, and always replace both if on the front, since murphy's law usually applies. thats where 60% of your stopping power comes from. the anti lock system won't normally cause the problem you describe, but a bad caliper will. make sure the rotors are ok as well.

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

  • HuBarlow Mar 21, 2011

    You may want to replace your rubber brake lines. Often they decay from the inside and cause a blockage that ACTS like the caliper is hanging. It may just be that the rubber line is not allowing the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder. I have begun to replace any rubber lines that I know or suspect to be over 10 years old because I have had this problem on several vehicles with older lines.

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1992 mazda b2600I rt front brake caliper locked wont releise unless bleeder valve opened


When you open the bleeder and fluid comes out with pressure and the brake releases, sounds like your brake hose is your problem.

Dec 21, 2016 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Proportioning valve 1988 f350


The reason is, you have a rear anti lock brake system. The anti lock valve is located on the frame just underneath the brake master. It is called a RABS valve. Almost impossible to bleed. But it can be done. A dealer has a tool that plugs into the RABS valve which activates the valve constantly moving the valve back and forth. This will then push all fluid and air out of your open bleeder screws in the rear.
I did'nt go to the dealer. i was too stubborn. My solution was to lift the rear of the truck and place on jack stands. Pinch off the rubber brake hoses on the 2 front brakes with a C-clamp or non marring vise grips, this will keep all fluid from going to front brakes. Next adjust the rear brake shoes by tightening the adjuster on the rear brake drums. Tighten the brakes on the rear until the brakes start to drag and the tires no longer spin freely by hand. Attach a bleeder hose to the bleeder screw on the RABS valve, place open end of hose into a jar or canister of brake fluid, so as not to draw in any air. Open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear tires spin. (I got up to 25mph on my speedometer) Step on the brake while it is in gear and the tires are spinning. This will activate the RABS valve and cause the air in the RABS valve to bleed. Do this several times. Put vehicle in park, shut off engine, and close the bleeder on the RABS valve. Attach bleeder hose to right rear of the truck, place open end of hose in a canister or jar of brake fluid so no air gets in and open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear wheels spin freely. As the wheels spin, you press your foot on the brake pedal, this will activate the RABS valve, and effectively bleed the brakes. Do this a dozen or so times, tighten the bleeder screw and do the other side. Remove clamps from front brake hoses and you will be go to go. All this may seem a bit extreme, but it is the only effective way to bleed a Rear Anti Lock Brake System on an early Ford. All the steps I laid out are necessary. You cannot skip one. The reason why the rear has to be in the air, is that there is a sensor mounted to the rear differential that senses wheel spin(or axle spin), this goes directly to the RABS valve and tells it that the tires are moving at a certain speed, and to activate the Rear Anti Lock Brakes when the brake pedal is depressed. It will not activate if it does not sense movement. The reason for pinching off the front brake lines, is that there are needle valves in the master cylinder and they will send too much fluid to the front calipers, and stifle or hinder the amount of fluid needed to go to the rabs valve and ultimately the rear wheel cylinders. It seems like a lot, and it is, but I did it and it works. Good luck

Mar 29, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The left rear wheel is locked up


This can be caused by a defective anti lock brake system ABS for short, this year has active ABS, this means the system can apply hydraulic pressure to the brakes with the driver never touching the brake pedal, if the valve that controls this pressure to the wheel leaks or sticks the brakes will lock up. To confirm this release pressure at the wheel by opening the brake caliper bleeder valve at the top of the brake caliper with the engine off. If the wheel spins free after the pressure is released you will need the ABS checked and quite possibly a new ABS hydraulic control unit. This type of failure is very rare but it does happen

Jan 16, 2012 | 2003 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I'm a mid-age woman w/a 94 DeVille that I want to change the brake fluid myself. How do I do that? Thank you!


BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING Diagonal Split System MASTER CYLINDER
  1. Refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  2. Push the plunger several times to force fluid into the piston.
  3. Continue pumping the plunger until the fluid is free of the air bubbles.
  4. Plug the outlet ports and install the master cylinder.
COMPLETE SYSTEM
  1. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Check the level often during the procedure.
  2. Starting with the right rear wheel, remove the protective cap from the bleeder, if equipped, and place where it will not be lost. Clean the bleed screw. When bleeding the brakes, keep face away from the brake area. Spewing fluid may cause facial and/or visual damage. Do not allow brake fluid to spill on the vehicle's finish; it will remove the paint.
  3. If the system is empty, the most efficient way to get fluid down to the wheel is to loosen the bleeder about 1?2 - 3?4 turn, place a finger firmly over the bleeder and have a helper pump the brakes slowly until fluid comes out the bleeder. Once fluid is at the bleeder, close it before the pedal is released inside the vehicle. NOTE: If the pedal is pumped rapidly, the fluid will churn and create small air bubbles, which are difficult to remove from the system. These air bubbles will eventually congregate resulting in a spongy pedal.
  4. Once fluid has been pumped to the caliper or wheel cylinder, open the bleed screw again, have the helper press the brake pedal to the floor, lock the bleeder and have the helper slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the procedure (including the 15 second wait) until no more air comes out of the bleeder upon application of the brake pedal. Remember to close the bleeder before the pedal is released inside the vehicle each time the bleeder is opened. If not, air will be induced into the system.
  5. If a helper is not available, connect a small hose to the bleeder, place the end in a container of brake fluid and proceed to pump the pedal from inside the vehicle until no more air comes out the bleeder. The hose will prevent air from entering the system.
  6. Repeat the procedure on remaining wheel cylinders in order:
    1. Step 1: Left front
    2. Step 2: Left rear
    3. Step 3: Right front
  7. Hydraulic brake systems must be totally flushed if the fluid becomes contaminated with water, dirt or other corrosive chemicals. To flush, bleed the entire system until all fluid has been replaced with the correct type of new fluid.
  8. Install the bleeder cap(s) on the bleeder to keep dirt out. Always road test the vehicle after brake work of any kind is done.
Teves® Anti-lock Brake System FRONT BRAKES
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF throughout this procedure.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Remove the reservoir cap. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  4. Using the bleeder adapter tool, install it onto the fluid reservoir.
  5. Attach a diaphragm type pressure bleeder to the adapter and charge the bleeder to 20 psi.
  6. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to either front wheel caliper and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  7. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and purge the caliper until bubble free fluid flows from the hose.
  8. Tighten the bleeder screw and remove the bleeder equipment.
  9. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the pump to charge the accumulator.
  10. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
REAR BRAKES
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  4. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the system to charge. NOTE: The pump will turn OFF when the system is charged.
  5. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to a rear wheel bleeder valve and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  6. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and slightly depress the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds or until air is removed from the brake system. Close the bleeder valve. NOTE: It is a good idea to check the fluid level several times during the bleeding operation. Remember, depressurize the system before checking the reservoir fluid.
  7. Repeat the bleeding procedure for the other rear wheel.
  8. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
Bosch® III Anti-lock Brake System
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
  4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
  8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
Bosch® 2U Anti-lock Brake System
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
  4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
  8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
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Sep 02, 2010 | 1994 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Took my 93' Toyota, has 193,000 miles replaced the


THE MASTER CYLINDER NEED TO BE BLED FIRST.BEFORE PUTTING ON THE CAR.TO MANUAL BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.YOU NEED 2 PEOPLE TO DO A BETTER JOB.YOU FIRST BLEED THE LEFT REAR RIGHT REAR LEFT FRONT AND RIGHT FRONT. WHEN YOU BLEED THE BRAKES.HAVE THE HELPER PUMP BRAKES 3 PUMPS.AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL IN.YOU NEED A CLEAR BLEEDER HOSE IN A CLEAR BOTTLE HALF WITH CLEAN BRAKE FLUID. WITH BLEEDER HOSE ON BLEEDER SCREW AND OTHER END BLEEDER HOSE IN BOTTLE OF BRAKE FLUID.WHILE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL HOLD IT IN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW 1/4 TURN ALLOWING AIR BUBBLES LEAVE THE BRAKE SYSTEM.CLOSE THE BLEEDER SCREW BEFORE BRAKE PEDAL RELEASE.HAVE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 3 TIMES. WITH PEDAL HELD DOWN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW GETTING AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.WHEN YOU SEE SOLID FLUID COMING OUT OF BLEEDER HOSE THE AIR IS OUT THE BRAKE SYSTEM.DONT DRIVE CAR ON HIGHWAY IF YOU STILL CANT GET SOLID BRAKES. HAVE CAR TOWED IN TO BE PRESSURE BLEED.

Jun 19, 2010 | 1993 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Right front wheel locks up on 93 3/4 ton van has new master cylinder,new caliper and new hose could this be a faulty proportioning valve?


It could be but I would suspect that the left side caliper is seized and not working. This would case the proportioning valve to send the extra pressure to the right wheel, locking it up Hope this helps.

Mar 05, 2010 | 1993 Chevrolet G20

1 Answer

On my 2002 cavalier, replaced front pads. compressed calipers without opening bleeder ( my mistake!). Now I have no pressure on left rear and front right wheels. It has anti-lock brakes. Thanks


You are not suppose to open the bleeders when replacing the brake pads.After pad removal you compress the pistons into the calipers and install new pads after cleaning and lubing the slides.Then just pump the pedal til it comes back up.Usually takes about 3 or 4 pumps.Make sure you didn`t break a brake line.If there were any problems with the anti lock brakes the light would come on.Hope this helps.Let me know.Good luck.

Jan 18, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

1989 G20 Van right front brake is locking up when applied. Calipers replaced. Did not fix problem.


The piston is binding in the wheel brake cylinder, perhaps a bit of rust in the cylinder.
Inspect it, replace wheel brake piston and maybe the cylinder if you can't make it "smooth".

Sep 21, 2009 | 2000 GMC New Sierra 1500

3 Answers

My abs light stays on 1995 chevy G20 van and have to replace front brakes every 6 months but rear brakes show no wear and are atleast 3 yrs old. On slick pavement right front brake sometimes locks when...


I'd be checking the sensor (ABS) at that wheel, (right front) and adjusting rear brakes to proper clearance, as well as inspect them for proper operation with wheels off.

Jul 22, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet G20

1 Answer

Left front caliper keeps locking up all brake parts have been replaced including anti-lock brake module and computer


sounds like the flex line is crushed inside alowing the caliper to apply but not release.
The best way to tell is to pump up the brake pedal and get the caliper to lock up. Open the bleeder screw. If the wheel suddenly become easy to turn, the flex line is wrecked. If it is still hard to turn, there is a problem with your caliper.

Sep 16, 2008 | Nissan Quest Cars & Trucks

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