How do i use a scan tool to check for RPM when cranking?

use a volt meter ,its that simple

I would suspect the ignition starter switch is defective.

Did you check for battery positive voltage at the pink wire at the ignition module , you have three connectors ,one with 4 an two with two wires , the one with pink an black ,that's power an ground . is there power an ground ? Which crankshaft position sensor did you replace , yours has two ! crank sensor A an crank sensor B . A is an input to the PCM - engine computer , B is an input to the ignition module .Does your check engine light come on when you turn on the key ? an go off when you crank the engine ? You tested for spark at the coil ? Pull two pull wires on same coil an crank over the engine , is there spark jumping from one terminal to the other ?
Engine Cranks But Does Not Run
Inspect for the following conditions:
?€¢
Mass air flow (MAF) is compared to a calculated mass air flow based upon the manifold absolute pressure (MAP), throttle position (TP), and engine RPM readings. A skewed or unresponsive MAP sensor at KEY ON will cause the predicted air flow value to be inaccurate. Compare MAP and TP sensor value to that of a known good vehicle.

?€¢
A faulty engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. Compare the ECT with intake air temperature (IAT) on a completely cool engine with a scan tool. The ECT should be within 3?°C (5?°F) of the IAT. If not, refer to DTC P0128 .

You need a scan tool to check this stuff !
1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls

2

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Observe the DTC information with a scan tool.

Does the scan tool display DTC P0101, P0123, P0230, P0601, P0602, P1626, P1630, or P1631?
--
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
Go to Step 3

3

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Inspect the following fuses for an open:

?€¢
F/P INJR

?€¢
ELEK IGN

?€¢
F/PMP

Did you find an open fuse?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 4

4

1. Attempt to start the engine.
2. Monitor the engine RPM parameter while the engine is cranking with a scan tool.

Does the engine RPM parameter display cranking RPM?
--
Go to Step 5
Go to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis

1. Monitor the Cylinder 1-6 Injector Circuit Status parameter with a scan tool.
2. Crank the engine.

Do all of the Cylinder Injector Circuit Status parameters display OK?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Fuel Injector Circuit Diagnosis

6

Command the fuel pump ON with a scan tool.
Does the fuel pump turn ON?

the coil does not crank the engine , the starter does that, sorry.
(if you ever had to hand or foot crank and engine , youd under stand that. (like motor cycles or boat engines, or per 30s cars.)

in fact will crank all day with no spark parts on car..

x2, the scan tool does tell you why there is NO STARTS, CRANKS OK. The pcm can detect, one missfire in 10 cmp;ckp signals.

• CRANK FOR 5 SECONDS
• release, key
• scan tool has DTC errors?, read the believe them.

no engine stated of 4 or more,

U checked everything but spark,
why, check spark at all cylinders, all most fire or the engine will not run or stall.
That test be first, if not starting (AFTER SCAN TEST)

IF NO spark fuses are next , not last.
lets do no start fails tests. (cranks perfectly 200 to 300 rpm)

1. : check fuses
2. key on, CEL lamp must glow, if not , ECU fuse blown.
3. crank with scan tool , see P03xx DTC errors, see RPM dead.?
4. check for spark? got spark x4 or times number of cylinders?
5. got spark try test fuel now, runs for 3 seconds?
6. yes, runs on test fuel now means lost fueling
7. no, dont run on test fuel, means, 1 to 5 done wrong above or engine compression bad.
8. bad fueling, huge number of tests. check fuel pressure now.

confused, try a shop and watch them, learn.

what engine? 2.3 or 2.5L?
all cylinders flooding??? spark tips on ALL dripping in gas?
check spark at all spark plugs ( ALL not just ONE)
if spark is good.
this engine is chain cam, so it makes huge noise before death.
did it?, nah
ok, so connect any $9 scan tool, and scan it. (barrow /rent.?)

you crank it for 5 seconds, not less.
and as you crank the scan tool RPM shows 250 to300 rpm and fails to start, the RPM on the tool shows you that the crank sensor is working
now release the key and do not turn off
look for DTC errors. got P0340,355? or any other DTC
that decodes to bad CMP or CKP/
yes, BINGO, the scan tool told you why spark is dead, or way off
timing,

the PCM will report Cmp or CKP errors even 1 in 6 pulses.
the PCM runs monitors against these 2 full time. and will see it fail.
and report, it, let it tell why spark is bad.
say spark is good. and still floods.
1: engine compresssion over 150psi? W.O.T?
2: flooding , i pull the fuel pump relay and crank now.
starts and runs for 3 -5 seconds, yes, that is the flood clearing
so i then try test fuel, runs perfect now (no fuel pump) ???
runs for 3 second, each test fuel usage. well good motor, good spark.
what more do you want? sure to run
so you have either insane high fuel pressure. or injectors leaking
can and does happen.
the tests are all in the FSM under injector and pump testing.
i check fuel pressure first. as its a mandatory thing.....
to factory spec. for unsaid engine.
then i do a injector leak down and balance check.
ask if you get this far.....????

i want to buy comma's so bad.
Engine cranks, but it don't start,
with key on,
engine off rpm reeds 575. (im cluesless here)
reads RPM 575 , not running and how pray tell did you
resolve the 5 at the end? what device showed that?
digital tacho or a scan tool? or dash tach? please tell this.


that is a good input , if true. the tacho on many cars is from
the spark primary signal, and if dead the car will not start.
is this a N.American car/ (unstated?)

the first checks (we go from easy to harder, and more tools)
1:got spark?
2: got fueling if spark is good, the ECU cuts fuel if it even suspects bad spark is true.
never look for bad fueling if the ECU reports bad spark.
that takes a scan tool to see what the ECU thinks, and sees.
got a scan tool they only cost $7, here.

If engine compression is at spec. W.O.T.
and spark is good.
then test fuel works all above is good,(mostly), if test fuel works
and it don't start up and stay running, with a fast right foot.
then the fueling system parts are bad.
this works for carb cars or EFI , this part is no different.
old school to new.

see scotty do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

no year or model, really?
ok ill answer for a Generic car (hopeless)
1: no spark and all EFI systems kill fueling at the detection of no spark (stopping the burning fire, and 911 call,etc.....)
i must stop, no year, wow.
if car is 1996, and newer my answer would be....
check all fuses in cab and engine bay for blown.
scan - all newer cars the scan tool is $9 (ask) or fleabay it your self.

spark , no engine option stated, must i guess it all? wow.
but each year, generation has newer spark designs.
totally radically different by GEN.
ok if its a 96"
the scan tools shows zero rpm cranking, and maybe code, 340 or 355, if yes, the Ckp is bad with zero rpm, in fact RPM IS CKP.
CKP means crank position sensor.
some engine, (lots) can die with a CMP dead.
CMP is the Cam angle sensors. (some, not all)
the FSM covers no spark , why not read it.
go to
alldata.com and see it all .
or post car spec, and we can post EXACT answers.
not possible now..

run the fault codes and check for cam/crank position sensor ( broken timing belt) check operation of immobiliser. Check for ING fuse blown

very poss it could be crank sensor ,broken wire ? timing belt? advise installing scan tool that reads live data check eng rpm on scan tool see if shows eng rpm while cranking , poss remove upper timing belt cover make sure is turning and not damaged, poss computer related problem or power to eng systems would have to check for power at fuel injs and check for ground pulse with logic probe or led test light if crank sensor ok also check for spark at plugs with special plug tester and check codes first

The v-8's timing is supposed to be 0 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees and is only adjustable if you have a scanner. A timing light does not work on them.
These engines can be "timed" in the way you are used too.
The distibutor housing holds the cam sensor, The PCM calculates the timing by measuring the crank signal and the cam signal.

What you are seting by turning the distibutor housing is the correlation between the 2 sensors. On the V-6 model, the housing holddown bracket is fixed to the housing so if you return the rotor to the proper position when reinstalling the housing, the engine should be at the correct cam sensor position setting.they did not fix the holddown bracket to the V-8 models, it would have saved a lot of headaches.
To set the correlation between the 2, you will need a scan tool that can read camshaft position offset. With the engine RPM over 1200 adjust the offset too 0 degrees.
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:

With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC.
Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature. IMPORTANT: Cam ****** Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM.
Monitor the Cam ****** Offset.
If the Cam ****** indicates a value of 0°+/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted.
If the Cam ****** does not indicate 0°+/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.

ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt. IMPORTANT: Cam ****** Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM.
Using a scan tool monitor Cam ****** Offset.
Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.

Repeat step 4 until 0°+/-2°, is obtained.
Turn the ignition OFF.
Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.).
Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and recheck Camshaft ****** Offset.
Thank you for using fixya and good luck.