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no my answer, dont buy that $500 PCM yet.
the Gauge fuse , see bottom left, above. runs lots of things,
the FSM covers this, fully 100%
it runs the Flasher module, the ECM, the integration module (BCM like) that runs interior lighting and many things off the IM.
if the fuse only blows, while blinking , id inspect all 4 corner lamps
id check the wires there and then replace all 4 lamps. if you
dont know how to bench test a lamp. then just replace them.
Gauge , (funny huh) runs the Alternator, if it shorts, boom the Gauge fuse blows. as you can see finding a short is not easy,
you never said how soon it blows. so,,,,, if quicky, id run it
with no alt connected. rear plug IG Plug pulled. do so for no more
that about 15minutes, the battery will drain fast (no head lights please,or fans for heater, no electrical things on, flashers on for sure.)
there are 30 pages, to see all IG1 power feed wires.
i didnt try to find them all.
but that is my point, if you dont have the book or alldata.com login
then all this is pure wild speculation and guessing.
I did this for a living, so ,know the ropes.
once I have this information, i then use my ammeter to find it.
see a area MASTER here, do that.
in your case you know what fuse blows. (stated wrong)
and with that , fact i can attach my ammeter, and the pull
modules to find which one has the active short.
in the case if the blinker module is passing excessive current
I then drop off the lamps loads from the flasher module
if that shows that my short is gone then the lamps are shorted.
i can even measure all 4 lamp wire feed to read this short with my ammeter and my CB.
using this. http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100B.jpg
this the red fuse below is GAUGE. the module on the right is the Flasher module.
If the remote start was not working and you were not blowing the fuse, and is doing so now. that would suggest that could be the problem. But something is definitely giving you a direct ground on your key cycle. I would go through and disconnect the remote start first, then if that does not fix the problem, then its time to disconnect all the accessory on that fuse and one by one check them for a ground or short. I also would like to know how are you starting the car once the fuse blows ?
50amp only clue and you dont have the book, the FSM.
nor access to alldata.com?
if you did youd, not be asking right?
my guess is that fuse is in the mains box under hood..
and is a real fuse and not a circuit breaker found elsewhere....????
old car, and can be anything this old.
sounds like fuse #33 in the main box blew. and feeds the white wire main.
USA car? ABS opted? A/C opted. sure.
top cause, shorted alternator, so take off that big wire from alternator
and see if fuse blows now. (do so with battery neg lug removed
the remove alt big wire and tape it all up, so it can touch metal.
then put back battery Neg lug, and last the fuse.
the whtte feed goes vast places and runs whole sections of
the cab fuse boxes and power windows.
if the Alt is good.
then you must start dropping all white wire loads.
if it still blows, the harness is shorted.
I personally just uses a temporary circuit breaker in place of the
50 amp to find the short and an ampclamp DC ammeter.
login to alldata.com and follow the big white wire.
I would start at the starter, it could have a short but it's only apparent when the engine gets it hot. you can try to pull the fuses to other things and see if the problems stop. this will at least give you an idea of where to look. also check fusible links and look for wire corrossion
I would first refer to the owners manual to make sure that the fuse that is blowing is of the right amps also check the fuses under the hood too. than i would check to see if there is any shorts anywhere and get them fixed. You can also take the car to autozone and have the free diagnostics done on the vehical ok?
hope that htis has helped out some.
best regards mike