a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
so what works and what not.
so far we have cluster issues
does car drive, ok day and night.
and all accessories?
did engine stall driving?
did Head lights dim? on, driving?
my guess is the engine stalled or idled below 300rpm
and the ECU went to Key on self test mode, (they all do that)
watch the RPM guage? see that needle, ?
if it goes below 300 rpm that is engine stall.
This cars cluster is really just a digital display
so if the PCM cant talk to the cluster, the cluster will go nuts.
We use a scan tool to see whats up.
or use the cluster self test covered in the shop manual.
the cluster has 2 fuses that can be cracked/loss or corroded.
the cars battery can go weak.
if the charge/battery light glows, engine RPM good
then the alternator systems is failing
if the volt meter (if opted) in cluster drops below 14v, and engine is still running, the same, alternator system failure
or even a loose belt at the alternator.
if the battery voltage drops too low , all electrics go nuts.
and engine stalls.
what dies first with low battery , is luck of the draw....
so what was battery voltage
and engine RPM at the point of failure.??????????
Since you already know what your physical oil pressure is at idle I
would try to get an accurate spec from Ford. if 10psi is normal the the
problem is likely the switch or cluster. If it is below spec it could be high mileage (normal bearing wear will
lower idle pressure) a weak bypass spring in the pump, or a the wrong
oil filter or oil. If you are not hearing any "lifter clatter" or knocking when u start it, I wouldn't be too concerned about a bad pump or engine damage just yet. Use only 5/30 or 10/30! anything thicker can cause cam damage due to oil starvation. Also going to long between oil changes can lower idle pressure as the oil looses viscosity and thins out. According to factory wiring diagrams 2001 F150 does not have a pressure gauge , it has a warning light, however when I read the test procedure it talks about a gauge. either way, light or gauge, it uses a switch (not a sender) to signal the cluster that oil pressure is either above or below a certain value. again, I'm sorry, i don't know what that value is. The instrument cluster receives ground through an oil pressure switch. When oil pressure is above a certain pressure the switch closes and the instrument cluster then turns out the light or indicates "normal" oil pressure. if the pressure is below a certain value the switch is open (the circuit to the cluster is not grounded) and the light will be on or the gauge will read no pressure. The light or gauge is NOT directly controlled by the switch. If it has a gauge the gauge will show an increase in pressure when engine RPM increases (calculated by the cluster) it is not showing true pressure. if your idle pressure is normal, you can test the by grounding the circuit at the switch, key on, if the light is out or the gauge reads normal the problem is the switch (assuming that physical pressure is above spec). If the idle pressure is slightly below spec you could try an oil stabilizer like Lucas or STP and keep your oil change intervals to 3500 miles. I hope this helps, feel free to contact me for more information
i have a merc c180 somthing similer happens to mine mine stick so it looks like i have no fuel or i am not moving if there not sticking i think there is a relay for the instrument cluster some where could be wrong though
There are bulbs in the instrument cluster and they are probably bad. You will have to take the instrument cluster out of the dash and take each bulb out individually to see which one is bad then replace it/them and reinstall the instrument cluster back in the dash. It sounds a lot harder than it really is.
the Instrument panel cluster on the silverados and sierra and tahoes all have this problem the cluster assemblys go bad for no apparant reason and you will need a new cluster they are 260 and they are non reparable , and a gm dealer will need to program your mileage and engine hours into the new controler (cluster)
some times the needle will jump when key is turned on or the cluster is defective, try to use a strong pen sized magnet to pull the needle back to 0 or remove the cluster and turn it over to see if the needle will fall back to 0, you could remove the lens and move it to 0 with your finger. if all that dont work i would test the cluster and repair it or replace it