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Where is the crank shaft position sensor located on a 2010 Honda CR-V EX 2WD?

I tried looking on google but got mixed answers and none that specifically align with my vehicle. I found a sensor on the back of the engine in the center, and can access it from under the car. I just want to make sure that I am replacing the correct sensor. It has a plate with 2 bolts over it and 1 bolt on the sensor its self.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jschoon77
  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: crank shaft sensor

I have 10 years experience in a Nissan dealership and I know without a shadow of a doubt that the Crankshaft Position Sensor is NOT located next tp the crank pulley... it is rather at the other end of the engine near where the transmission bellhousing bolts to the engine block. It is on the side toward the firewall near the bottom. Even if you can get the vehicle on a lift and get under it, you can't really see it... It's more of a feel thing... There was a campaign (recall) on these engines to replace Crank Position and also Cam Postion sensors. Check with your dealer- the campaign might be open. You will need your VIN number when you call.

Posted on Oct 29, 2008

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DSMprostyle
  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: crankshaft position sensor location

Hello. One way to check if it is working is when you try to start the car does the needle move on you tac? If not then your crank sensor is more then likely the problem. It is located on the backside of the engine under the intake manifold. If is in about the center of the block. There will be a 10mm bolt holding the sensor in. If you decide to change it yourself (not to terrible of a job) unplug the sensor, remove the bolt and spin it back and forth slightly while pulling it out. It may be stoburn and you might have to work at it for a little bit (not a done of room) but it will come. When it's out the sensor will be shaped kind of like an L. I have changed a few of these over time and they can be a little stoburn. To install just reverse the process.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Honda Passport timing alginment 3.2 ltr 6VD1 engine

The crankshaft should have the timing mark on the crank pulley (Notch in the outer edge of the pulley near the keyway) It should align with the timing mark on the oil pump. (With the keway turned to about the 3 O'clock position.)

Align the marks on the camshaft timing pulleys with the corresponding dots on the front plate.

If you are installing a new belt, it should have 2 solid white lines printed on it that you would align with the timing marks on the cams and a dotted white line to align with the timing mark on the crank.

It makes a difference which way you put the belt on. (Which edge faces the front of the engine.) Most, but not all brands of belts have arrows and the word "FRONT" on them to tell you which edge of the belt shoud face the front of the motor. If there is no mark to tell you which edge is front, the letters on the belt must be able to be read correctly as viewed from the front of the vehicle.

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks for bringing me back to reality... I just finished working on it and everything is fine. It really was that simple.... Thanks again."

  • 3640 Answers

SOURCE: looking for location of crankshaft position sensor

The 3.3/3.8L crankshaft sensor is located on the rear of the transmission housing, above the differential housing The bottom of the sensor is positioned next to the drive plate. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the sensor in place and remove the sensor. Install the new crankshaft sensor.
Install crankshaft sensor bolt and tighten. Connect wiring. merry christmas !!

Posted on Dec 25, 2010

tecnovative
  • 360 Answers

SOURCE: where is the crank shaft

The CKP crankshaft position sensor is located behind the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the following procedures to test, and replace the sensor.

To Test
2.7L ENGINE If the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) PO335 and or PO336 is thrown, perform the following test.

  1. Reset the Electronic Control Module (ECM), as outlined under clearing codes later in this section.
  2. Start the engine. Does the code reoccur? If so proceed on to the next step. If not, the problem is intermittent and you should check for loose connections and poor grounds.
  3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  4. Detach the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) 2-prong connector.
  5. Check the resistance between terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If not, replace the sensor. If so, go on to the next step.
  6. Check for ground between both terminals and the body of the vehicle.
  7. Is there continuity? If so, replace the CKP sensor. If not, move on to the next step.
  8. Attach the CKP sensor connector.
  9. Detach the ECM connector "C".
  10. Measure the resistance between B8 and B16. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If so, move on to the next step. If not, repair the open in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor.
  11. Check the continuity between the body ground and the ECM connector terminal B8. Is there continuity? If your answer is YES, repair the short in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor. If not, Honda recommends substituting a known good ECM. If the vehicle stops throwing the above code(s), replace the ECM with a new unit.
3.0L ENGINE If the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) PO335 and or PO336 is thrown, perform the following test.
  1. Reset the Electronic Control Module (ECM), as outlined under clearing codes later in this section.
  2. Start the engine. Does the code reoccur? If so proceed on to the next step. If not, the problem is intermittent and you should check for loose connections and poor grounds.
  3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  4. Detach the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor 2-prong connector.
  5. Check the resistance between terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If not, replace the sensor. If so, go on to the next step.
  6. Check for ground between both terminals and the body of the vehicle.
  7. Is there continuity? If so, replace the CKP sensor. If not, move on to the next step.
  8. Attach the CKP sensor connector.
  9. Detach the ECM connector "C".
  10. Measure the resistance between C8 and C9. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If so, move on to the next step. If not, repair the open in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor.
  11. Check the continuity between the body ground and the ECM connector terminal C8. Is there continuity? If your answer is YES, repair the short in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor. If not, Honda recommends substituting a known good ECM. If the vehicle stops throwing the above code(s), replace the ECM with a new unit.
To Replace Sensor
  1. Remove the negative battery cable.
  2. Detach the CKP sensor electrical connector at the front of the lower timing belt cover.
  3. Remove the accessory drive belts. Refer to Section 1 for specific details on belt removal.
  4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. Refer to Section 3 for specific details.
  5. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  6. Remove the CKP sensor. NOTE: The CKP sensor is part of the Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor on some models and must be replaced as an unit.
  7. Install the CKP sensor in the reverse order of removal.
Belt Removal

CAUTION
Always disable the power to the vehicle by disconnecting the negative battery cable before checking, replacing or adjusting the drive belts. Working with the drive belts requires placing tools, hands and fingers near areas of potential danger. In addition, the cooling fan could engage even with the ignition in the OFF position. V-Belts If a belt must be replaced, the driven unit or idler pulley must be loosened and moved to its extreme loosest position, generally by moving it toward the center of the engine. After removing the old belt, check the pulleys for dirt or built-up material, which could affect belt contact. Carefully install the new belt, remembering that it is new and unused; it may appear to be just a little too small to fit over the pulley flanges. Fit the belt over the largest pulley (usually the crankshaft pulley at the bottom center of the engine) first, then work on the smaller one(s). Gentle pressure in the direction of rotation is helpful. Some belts run around a third, or idler pulley, which acts as an additional pivot in the belt's path. It may be possible to loosen the idler pulley as well as the main component, making the job much easier. Depending on which belt(s) being changed, it may be necessary to loosen or remove other interfering belts to access the being replaced. When buying replacement belts, remember that the fit is critical according to the length of the belt ("diameter") and the width of the belt. The belt shape should match the shape of the pulley exactly. Belts that are not an exact match can cause noise, slippage and premature failure. After the new belt is installed, draw tension on it by moving the driven unit or idler pulley away from the engine and tighten its mounting bolts. This is sometimes a three or four-handed job; and an assistant could be helpful. Make sure that all the bolts that have been loosened are retightened and that any other loosened belts have the correct tension. A new belt can be expected to stretch a bit after installation, so be prepared to readjust the new belt, if needed, within the first two hundred miles of use. Serpentine Belts Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. All the belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked" all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys. NOTE: Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing label or one of the diagrams in this book.
  1. Note the radio presets and disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If necessary, remove the power steering belt.
  3. Use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
  4. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal parts.
  5. Remove the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine. To install:
  6. Begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley the belt was first released from during removal for last.
  7. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. Carefully release the pressure on the tensioner and it to contact with the belt, making sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
  8. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check the installation.
  9. Install and properly tension the power steering belt.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable, enter the radio presets, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
  11. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.

Posted on Feb 13, 2011

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1_17_2012_1_55_30_pm.jpg

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1_17_2012_1_57_19_pm.jpg

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