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I have a Dynex 42E250A12. From online help I think I have a bad Power Supply. I don't have a diagram showing the output voltages. How can I determine if the power supply is what is bad.

I'm pretty good with a meter.

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SOURCE: wiring diagram

Do you still need help with this?

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SOURCE: wiring diagram fort radio dodge caravan

if you have the connector and are trying to determine which is which... use a multimeter to test for voltage. the memory wire will have power to it regardless if the key is on or not.


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SOURCE: need to bypass ignition switch

further diagnosis showed that the ingnition switch was fine it turned out to be a faulty 02 sensor that was making the engine run extremely rich, ruining the spark plugs.

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SOURCE: electric fuel pump wiring harness diagram

Your best bet is to type it in to and got to the repair section. it will tell you there.

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SOURCE: no power supply is reached the aircon compressor.

you first need to check up the pressure of gas inside the pipe test then replace the sensor you do that and the power will come

Posted on May 24, 2010

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Look for a bad engine ground ! Voltage drop the ground circuits for charging system , body grounds etc... Go on you tube an check out videos on basic automotive electrical trouble shooting , voltage drop testing , how to read a wiring diagram , how to use a DVOM -digital volt ohm meter . Go to free wiring diagrams . Also check out how to test PCM/ECM inputs an outputs ECM Inputs and Outputs Diagnosis

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which engine, no engine, no joy. 4.0L inline 6 cyl?

yes, in most cases. most got from 0.5 to 4v.
most ECU learn this as you drive, others the TPS must be calibrated
all this is covered in the FSM>
my online source shows , NO Calibration, proving Autocal ECU.

why not post symptoms, ????
the TPS when bad, have huge lists of symptoms.
and the ECU OBD2 diagnosics on TPS is very poor.
it see the TP go wild and just thinks driver is nuts.
so no errors.just engine goes nuts.
(unless dead open or shorted) (new TBW cars ,totally diffr)
what first happens (pure physics) is the carbon in the POT
wears. and the TP voltage glitches (at your oldest longest used cruise speed, or at near idle (city car, hiway car ?)
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or fails to 0v, a negative glitch (scopes rule) and ENRICH mode
fails. and engine BOGS on the fly. then catches up.
how is that.? (it does far more, ask)

here is the fsm quote for 4L
The Throttle Position Sensor, or TPS is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine fuel delivery volume.
The TPS is a potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM to measure the voltage from the TPS.
As the throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TPS also changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low (approximately .5 volts). As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide-open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts.
By monitoring the output voltage from the TPS, the PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
(comments, by me, id does far more than that.. ask)

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see this steps and fix it. God bless you
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or cranshaft position sensor CKP

A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.


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No feed to fuel pump

Model Year is always good to know, just to help determine age of the vehicle.

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Make sure you have a fully charged battery. Modern electronics require minimum voltage amounts or won't function.

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I have personally seen aftermarket add-on equipment cause everything from engine cylinder misfires to transmission shifting problems to engine stalling and no-starts. I do not recommend using any at all. However, there are usually no problems created by "stand alone" accessories that are powered directly from the battery and do not require splicing into any of the computer circuits.

My professional recommendation on this is that if you think you need a tachometer to operate your vehicle, or you just like the looks of a tachometer bouncing up and down, then you would be money and headaches ahead to buy a vehicle that is equipped with a tachometer from the manufacturer - you may be opening a can of worms that you do not want.

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The I circuit, or ignition circuit is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition key in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation or associated wiring circuits A Circuit
The A circuit, or battery sense circuit, is used to sense the battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine the output. This circuit is also used to supply power to the generator (alternator) field coil. This circuit is connected back to the load distribution point and is a protected circuit. S Circuit
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