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Navara d22 diesel * brake pedal is slowly creeping to the floor after changing the master cylinder and bled the oil only when the engine is running please advise

Changed master cylinder and bled oil changed rear cylinders and shoes as cylinder's were leaking

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: pedal goes to floor on 92 F250

I would strongly recommend checking your trucks R.A.B.S. (Rear Antilock Brake System) valve . It is located on the left frame rail just under where your left foot would rest . They can leak internally and exhibit the problems you are describing (loss of pedal , with no fluid loss) .
It is highly unlikely that a power booster would cause this , as a failed booster will show itself in these ways . 1) a hissing sound when you apply the brakes (indicates a vacumm leak) 2) rough engine idle/stalling when brakes applied (also indicates a vacumm leak) or 3) No power assist (brake pedal hard to push) .
If you do discover your hydraulic problem is in your RABS valve , don't forget to bleed it ,(there is a bleeder valve on it) and the rear brakes again after you replace it .
Hope this helps
Doug

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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SOURCE: 2005 f150 spongy brakes

possibly new master cylinder is defective

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

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SOURCE: 1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor-

Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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SOURCE: brake pedal keeps creeping down, but there are no leaks.

check your brake booster and also make sure the rear shoes are adjusted up where they belong. If they are not adjusted up the brake pedal will go farther and farther toward the floor and get spongier as they go farther out of adjustment. If you adjust them up and they back down again change your self-adjusters and springs. They are readily available at your local parts store.

Posted on May 10, 2009

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SOURCE: brake pedal goes soft when engin is running on 1998 chevy 1500

If your rubber brake lines are from the factory those hoses can stretch when the brakes are applied. This same thing happened to me. I replaced the master cylinder, with little to no change. So then I changed the brake booster. And if you read the fine print if either the brake booster or the master cylinder go bad it can take the other with it. So if the rubber brake lines don't fix this I would look at replacing both the master cylinder and the brake booster at the same time. But if you would like to trouble shoot this issue a bit more you can clamp off just the rear brakes or just the front brakes or even clamp off 3 of 4 or if it might be a issue before it even hits the brakes them self you can clamp off all 4 of the brakes to see were the problem is. This is to test fewer components at once and to see if the issue is with the cylinders / calipers or hoses. This will help you determine the location of the problem faster and with out throwing parts at your truck and hopping it fixes the issue.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

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Navara d22 brake pedal slowly goes to the floor only when engine is running I have changed master cylinder ,rear shoes,rear cylinders as they were leaking bled oil can you help


nissan vehicle have a problem in the bleeding of the brake and as a result pressure bleed is more effective that the normal method
Take the vehicle to an accredited brake shop and have the brakes pressure bled or have a proper diagnosis done to find the fault

Dec 14, 2016 | Nissan Navara Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn


Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair

Jul 23, 2017 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

After having changed the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders, and bled them the pedal was good. Then the pedal was going to the floor slowly so I had to pump the brakes to get enough stopping power....


It sounds that you have done a pretty good job at this point. Remember that the brake adjustment will dictate the amount of brake pedal. Recheck to make sure the right brake linings were used. Recheck to make sure the brakes on the rear are adjusted up as far as possible. As far as the bleeding, I have had many cars that will not bleed the sytem without the engine running to give it the pressure needed to pass through the master cylinder and lines. Have a WELL ventilated area, car in neutral, wheels chocked, and bleed the brakes with the engine running. Remember to take all safety precautions to avoid injury before attempting this.

Dec 29, 2010 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?


well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
  1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
  2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
  3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
  4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
  5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Brake pedal creeps to floor


there are o rings under the resivior (where the brake fluid goes) where it connects to the master cylinder fluid bleeds from the suplly to the return side if they are bad also check the master cylinders in the back brakes(if drum type) they might be leaking

Oct 29, 2009 | 2005 Peugeot 405

2 Answers

Brake pedal still goes to floor 2000 GMC Jimmy


It's very possible to be the master cylinder, the o-rings on the piston could be worn, letting the fluid seep back through instead of getting full pressure through the lines. Could also be the brake booster.
Try changing the master cylinder first, which is cheaper and easier, and see if there is a difference, you'll need to bleed the brakes again.
To check the booster,
With the engine off, pump the brakes until the pedal is hard, then hold pressure on the brake pedal and listen for air escaping, or the pedal goes slowly to the floor, Do that after the master cylinder has been changed, at least that will be eliminated.

Sep 15, 2009 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...


When you bleed the brakes are you starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder? Also was the master cylinder bench bled? If everything there is okay and you are not getting any air in fluid stream, you could try bleeding the brakes by having some one slowly pump the pedal till it is firm. Then have them let off open first bleeder valve and slowly depress to floor and hold there untol the valve is closed. repeat this at all bleeders. You may want to have car running to do this. Try this and let me know.

Jul 02, 2009 | Chrysler New Yorker Cars & Trucks

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