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Re: Replacing a 1999 grand caravans brake lines, (flaring...
Hello one main thing if you are doing your own Flaring make sure you double flare, Its stronger and better and depending on if you are doing all the lines just make sure your reservoir for the brake fluid never runs dry so you don't have to re-bleed the master. also i have found if you are doing all the lines once you are done spray them off with brake clean to get any brake fluid off the lines and spend a couple extra bucks and get some rocker guard and coat the lines to stop them from rusting again
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There are a few things that can cause this,you will have to remove the wheel and brake drum to inspect it . Seized wheel bearing, grease or oil on brake linings,seized cable,if hydraulic seized wheel cylinder pistons. If the linings have oil or grease on them replace them on both sides for even braking.
Well if you never did this before it depends on how mechical you are and what you have for tools . Ican tell you this it will cost you a lot to have someone else do it . But i can tell you what you would need to do it if your brave enough . Its realy not that hard . You need a small tubeing cutter to cut the line clean and sqaure and a flareing tool to do a single flare on the lines you need to cut . Then you can buy splicers that are flared and have fittings on them already . All you have to do it flare the lines on the vehicle but make sure you put the new conecters on the old lines before you flare them because they will attach to the new wipe line you need to buy it may be olny 6 inches long . So locate the leak in the existing line and cut the line out where it apares to be sound put the new connecters on the old lines flare the ends of the old lines put the new line in and tighten and it will never leak at that point again. The flareing tool costs about 20 to 30 dollars it could save you hundreds if you can do it right Good luck
First, you have to make a new line. The steel brake lines are not available for ANY vehicle. The parts store will have sections of brake line that they can sell you. You should remove the old line and take it with yu so you can be sure and get the correct lenght and diameter.
You will then need either a "Bubble" flaring tool or a "Double" flaring tool depending on which type of flare your vehicle uses. You must look at the end of the original line to determine which it is. The steel brake line that you buy from the parts store will have double flares on both ends. To get the correct length howerver, you will most likely have to purchace a tube that is too long or your vehicle then cut one end off. You will then have to flare the end you cut.
NOTE: if your vehicle is equipped with metric bubble flares, there are also adapters that can be purchased that will screw into the bubble flare on your vehicle and adapt the fitting so that a standard double flare can be used on the tubing.
I recommend replacing the entire brake line from fitting to fitting. This can be very difficult to do, but it can be done. You may have to purchase a "roll" of bulk tubing to get a piece long enough to do this.
Some people do not want to go through all of this trouble, so they find a spot in the line that is in fairly good condition and cut the line. If you opt for this method, then you must now make a flare in the end of the line that you just cut off so the pieces can be "spliced" together.
When joining two pieces of line together, it is imperative that you use a flare union, NOT a compression fitting union. Brake lines must hold an extreme pressure (1100 - 1500 Psi.) using compression fittings is NOT SAFE.
Other than that, all I can tell you about HOW to change the line, is that you may have to disassemble several brackets and holders to get the old line out and the new line in depending on which line you are replacing and where it is routed.
Also see this video on YouTube that shows how to make a double flare: Double Flare Video
A brake line should be flared, when replaing a line theres a fitting end on one end and then if connecting to another line that connection must be flared,
Two things, if you get a vibration when you are decelerating( an indication of shaft problems) you may need to replace your 3 motor mounts. But more important, most aftermarket rebuilt shafts are junk. Buy only new or Mopar rebuilt axle shafts. Anything other than Mopar new shafts or Mopar rebuilt shafts(sometimes Mopar rebuilt can be bad too) and you are pretty much guarantying that you will be replacing the shaft again with in 6 months. I own a 1993 Voyager and have replaced a dozen axles. The problem stopped with the OEM parts. Forget about the lifetime warranty offered with auto store axles, unless you enjoy replacing axles.
It's the same as any other car or truck. Simply cut the rubber off & there's a nut,like any other brake line. Loosen the lines as you would for any job. Now you say the lines are rusted,if they're that bad then you'll need to replace them from front to rear. This requires a tubing bender(hand held) & a doulble flare tool & unions. You can forget about that "expensive" part. It's a brake balance controler & never goes bad.
try metric size. a flare wrench is an closed end wrench with a little **** in big enough to to slide over the line and then around the bolt its grabs mor of the bolt than a regular wrench
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