2005 lt got a parasitic draw of 1.02 ma pulled all fuses still shows up. is there anywhere else i could look mebay relay's ?

If it dies while the truck is sitting turned off, then you have an active circuit in the truck which should not be on (e.g. glove box or underhood light). To find the cause, an ammeter on one of the battery cables will show you a current drain and you can then pull fuses until the drain stops to find which circuit it is.
If the battery is draining while the truck is running, it is not charging properly. This usually means the battery is shot (even a new one - do a load test) or the alternator regulator is faulty or you have a wiring/grounding problem in the charging circuit.

The acutal brake lights are on constantly or the bake warning lamp in instrument panel?

Double check the ABS fuse and relays are in and proper. A malfunction in ABS will disable stabilitrac,

try a different battery sounds like the battery is no good not holding charge long

1.02 ma is extremely low and may be the current used by the ecm to maintain the CPU memory and to run the clock setting
a current draw that low will not discharge a fully operational battery
consider this --a good 500 cranking amp battery with a discharge of 1ma will last over a year or years before it shows signs of needing a recharge
however if the battery has an problem cell then internal discharge will flatten a battery in hours
have a load test done on the battery

Hooking between the neg. post an neg. cable an pulling fuse's is not a good way to do a parasitic draw test on your vehicle . Pulling fuse's wakes up module's an you will see a draw . You need to do it non-intrusively . Your vehicle has a bunch of control modules an pulling fuse's will wake them up. Try this way .
The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test
Diagnose Battery Drain Parasitic Draw Chevy Trailblazer
Chevrolet Truck Battery Dies Overnight Part

300 ma. draw, should not kill battery over night if battery in decent shape.

You may need to test for a parasitic power drain, for example a horn switch that is stuck closed causing the horn relay switch to stay on continuously even if the wire was unplugged from the horn.

You will need multimeter to test for a parasitic power drain.

1. With the key off, disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Connect the black multimeter test lead to the negative battery post, connect the red test lead to the negative battery cable.
3. With the meter set to the DC milli-amps scale note the current draw displayed. If it is over 20 mA, there is likely something drawing power that shouldn't be.
4. Leaving the meter connected have an assistant pull fuses one at a time (replacing them before pulling the next) until the meter reading drops. The circuit that this fuse powers is where the problem most likely is.

to check for a parasitic battery drain, you will need a multimeter. set it on the 300 mA setting then remove the negative battery cable on the vehicle. put the multimeter's negative lead on the battery post and the positive lead on the vehicle's negative cable. the meter will tell you how many amps are being drawn. usually, there's a temporary spike (a second or two) for the vehicle's security system, relays, etc. after that, you should only see a draw of approximately 30-40 mA, which is the digital clock, memory settings on the radio, etc. if you're seeing a larger draw, you can begin removing main fuses in the fuse box under the hood to see where the draw is coming from. it's also possible that you may have a bad diode in the alternator, which would cause the alternator to draw current away from the battery when the engine is not running.

What you are describing is called a "Parasitic Drain"

In automotive terms, a parasitic drain is an electrical load that draws current from the battery when the ignition is turned off. Some devices, such as the PCM and the radio memory are intended to draw a very small amount continuously. These draws are measured in milliamps (mA).

An abnormal parasitic drain could be something like a glovebox lamp, lighted sunshade mirror, aftermarket accessory, or luggage compartment light that remains on but undetected. Or an electronic component may malfunction and cause a parasitic drain that is larger than normal specification.

The recommendation for maximum parasitic drain is around 30 mA (0.030 amp). A typical drain today actually falls into the 7-12 mA range, even though some vehicles do approach the maximum.

Unfortunately, many mechanics do not know how to properly test for and/or track down a parasitic drain. You need to find a shop that has a technician that is familiar with this type of problem. The best way is to ask them specificly if they know how to diagnose a parasitic drain. If they hesitate, or act like they don't know what you are talking about, move on to the next shop.

check the parasitic draw on the battery. If the draw is greater than 40 ma, something is causing the battery to go flat before it should. Recommend you monitor parasitic draw using a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) and unplug one fuse at a time until you discover which circuit is draining the battery.