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I need to purchase the threaded shaft part to the pedal nut holds it on Is it possible to get?

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Find tension pulley release

Undo the nut holding on the pulley until it is loose . Behind the bracket holding the pulley shaft you will find a long threaded bolt that moves the shaft up or down a slot . When finished the job make sure the pulley nut is re-tensioned.

Sep 28, 2013 | Honda Odyssey Cars & Trucks

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Clutch adjustment on 1997 toyoto 4 runner

You do not fool with that shaft. You clutch is hydraulic ans it is s4elf adjusting, if the pedal is hard to push and engage4s at the top of travel the clutch is worn out, PERIOD.

Jan 20, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Just need any helpful advice as I want to change the front shocks on my '03 Tahoe, 4x4, LS. Looks like it should be easy but don't wanna miss something that could later become a problem.

Looks can be deceiving. The top nut can be a real pain in the a*s. I recommend going by your local parts supplier (most of them also sell tools) and purchase a "shock socket". This is a socket you can put on your ratchet and it is made to fit the "flats" on the upper shaft of the shock. You first hold the shaft while you use a wrench on the nut to break it loose, then you can hold the wrench still while you use the ratchet to screw the shaft out of the nut. The nuts are usually self-locking nuts and can be very difficult to turn. GM also has a nasty habit of installing the OEM nuts with thread locker on them in ADDITION to the locking properties of the egg-shaped threads on the nut. I also recommend soaking them with some good penetrating oil like "PB Blaster" or "Sea Foam". Squirt them down and repeat for a couple days in a row before actually trying to get the shocks loose. It wouldn't hurt to soak the bottom bolts as well, however they are usually not nearly as bad as the top nut.

Jun 01, 2011 | Chevrolet Tahoe Cars & Trucks

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Hi, I have never replaced struts. Do i need to take pressure off the spring before removing the unit? Can i rent a spring comp to change the strut after its off? The car is a 05 monte carlo. I have...

Chet, First of all, you don't mention if you are replacing the front or rear struts. I'll try to take you through both of them. The front struts, Jack up one side of the car and remove the wheel. Place a jack stand under the frame and lower the car on to it. Let the axle assembly hang freely. There are usually two lower bolts and two or three bolts holding the top inside the engine compartment. If the brake line is attached to the strut, remove it. Also, it may have the sway bar link attached, remove this from the strut. Take the nuts off the lower strut and as the bolts are usually splined you will have to pound the bolts out. If there is a thread all the way to the end of the bolt put the nut back on so that it is flush with the top of the bolt so as not to damage the threads when they are pounded out. Some bolts wont have the threads so you wont have to worry about thread damage. Use a screw driver to separate the two. Remove the upper nuts, being careful not to let the strut fall down and possibly damage the brakes lines or ABS wires.
Before I continue let me inform you that you can purchase struts that are complete so you dont have to remove the spring and related parts from the strut. These are called "Ready struts" or another name that escapes me at the moment. These can be purchased from most part stores. These are preferred by most people as they have new bearings, new struts as well and new springs which will return the vehicle to the normal ride height, should this be part of the problem.
If you want to replace just the strut. Yes, you can rent the spring compresser that will be needed to complete the job.
Take the spring compresser which usually comes in two pieces and put one on one side of the spring and tighten it by hand until snug. Place the other piece on the opposite side of the spring and again hand tighten it. Tighten one one side of the compresser two turns with a socket and then do this to the other side. Be VERY CAREFUL to make sure the pieces don't shift when doing this. Continue this until you can turn the upper bearing plate by hand. Place a vice grip on the highest part of the strut shaft as possible and tighten as much as possible. Remove the nut holding the upper bearing plate. Remove the upper bearing plate and the boot covering the shaft and finally the spring. Reuse all the rubber bushings for the spring and place the spring over the shaft. Once again, place the vise grip as high as possible on the new strut shaft and replace the upper bushing, boot and bearing plate on the shaft and tighten the bolt holding everything together. Making sure that the spring sits properly slowly remove the spring compresser, again two or three turns at a time, one side at at time. Replace the strut assembly back into the car.
Rear struts, The only difference here is the way the struts are mounted in the car. Upper strut mounts on some vehicles are accessible in the trunk with three nuts holding them in. Others are accessible under the panel behind the rear seats. Others still have to accessed from the wheel well. The bottom mount is usually one bolt. Again the spring removal procedure is the same as the front. Be VERY CAREFUL the compresser doesn't shift when you are using it. If it is the front struts you are doing then a wheel alignment is advised. Good luck with this.

Apr 24, 2011 | Chevrolet Monte Carlo Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to adjust clutch pedal on 86 mustang lx

clutch is supposed to be self adjusting. Here are instructions for replacing the adjuster:


See Figure 1

  1. Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
  2. Remove the steering wheel using a steering wheel puller, Tool T67L-3600-A or equivalent.
  3. Remove the lower dash panel section to the left of the steering column.
  4. Remove the shrouds from the steering column.
  5. Disconnect the brake lamp switch and the master cylinder pushrod from the brake pedal.
  6. Rotate the clutch quadrant forward and unhook the clutch cable from the quadrant. Allow the quadrant to slowly swing rearward.
  7. Remove the bolt holding the brake pedal support bracket lateral brace to the left side of the vehicle.
  8. Disconnect all electrical connectors from the steering column.
  9. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column to the brake pedal support bracket and lower the steering column to the floor.
  10. Remove the 4 booster nuts that hold the brake pedal support bracket to the dash panel.
  11. Remove the bolt that holds the brake pedal support bracket to the underside of the instrument panel, and remove the brake pedal support bracket assembly from the vehicle.
  12. Remove the clutch pedal shaft nut and the clutch pedal, as outlined above.
  13. Slide the self-adjusting mechanism out of the brake pedal support bracket.
  14. Examine the self-adjusting mechanism shaft bushings on either side of the brake pedal support bracket, and replace if worn.

To install:
  1. Lubricate the self-adjusting mechanism shaft with motor oil and install the mechanism into the brake pedal support bracket.
  2. Position the quadrant towards the top of the vehicle. Align the flats on the shaft with the flats in the clutch pedal assembly, and install the retaining nuts. Tighten to 32-50 ft. lbs. (43-67 Nm).
  3. Position the brake pedal support bracket assembly beneath the instrument panel, aligning the four holes with the studs in the dash panel. Install the four nuts loosely.
  4. Install the bolt through the support bracket and into the instrument panel. Tighten to 13-25 ft. lbs. (18-34 Nm).
  5. Tighten the four booster nuts that hold the brake pedal support bracket to the dash panel to 13-25 ft. lbs. (18-34 Nm).
  6. Connect the brake lamp switch and the master cylinder pushrod to the brake pedal.
  7. Attach the clutch cable to the quadrant.
  8. Position the steering column onto the four studs in the support bracket and start the four nuts.
  9. Connect the steering column electrical connectors.
  10. Install the steering column shrouds.
  11. Install the brake pedal support lateral brace.
  12. Tighten the steering column attaching nuts to 20-37 ft. lbs. (27-50 Nm).
  13. Install the lower dash panel section.
  14. Install the steering wheel.
  15. Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal on the battery.
  16. Check the steering column for proper operation.
  17. Depress the clutch pedal several times to adjust the cable.
  18. 714c4a4.gif

Sep 24, 2010 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

How do you remove the rear wiper arm on a 2008 town & country

1. Remove the cap by inserting a flathead screwdriver on the side of the wiper arm to pop it off
2. Remove the nut holding the arm to the motor shaft
3. Now for the hard part, put the flathead screwdriver between the wiper arm and the base of the motor shaft. You should be able to wedge it in there so that you can put slight pressure on the bottom of the wiper arm and the base of the motor. Now wiggle the wiper arm and pull up while you turn the flathead screwdriver to help pop it off. Just keep wiggling and turning the screwdriver to pop the arm off.
4. Once the arm is off it should be obvious why it was so hard to get it off. There are threads on the motor shaft that tap wiper arm when you crank the nut down on the arm. That's why it doesn't just fall off when you take the nut off.
5.. Put the nut on tightly so that it creates the new threads on the new wiper arm.
6. Test it.
7. Put the cap back on.

Jun 04, 2010 | 2008 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

How to get the blinker switch assembly out of a 1966 oldsmobile 98?

1966 Olds 98?
It's been a while, so bear with me. The main objective is to remove the steering wheel, to have access to the turn signal switch.

1.Negative battery cable disconnected

2.I believe you twist the horn button in the middle of the steering wheel, and pull up, to remove. The horn button should have a ring of thick rubber on the bottom, which keeps it in the steering wheel. The chrome piece under the horn button may come off with it, or it stays on the steering wheel. This is the part that is fuzzy to remember.

3.Remove the steering wheel nut, and lock washer.

4.If you do not have a steering wheel puller, go to your nearest auto parts store, and see if one is available to rent. The cost of this puller is relatively low, so you may just want to go ahead, and purchase one. While you're there you need to obtain another tool also. Steering Wheel Lock Plate Tool.

5.After the horn button is removed, and the steering wheel nut, you will see a flat metal area of the steering wheel. On each side of the threaded part of the steering column shaft, there are two small threaded holes, in this flat metal area.

The steering wheel puller, is a bar shaped piece of metal, that has a threaded hole in the middle. There is a threaded shaft that goes into this hole. On each end of the metal bar are slots. Threaded bolts go through these slots, and line up with the two threaded holes in the steering wheel. There is a pointed tip, that rotates on the threaded shaft, of the steering wheel puller. This pointed tip goes in the middle of the steering wheel shaft. (The shaft that you removed the nut from)

Find the two correct threaded bolts in the steering wheel puller kit, that matches the threads in the steering wheel holes. They HAVE to be the correct size, AND the correct thread. (Fine thread, or Coarse thread. They will be SAE thread, and not Metric) If the puller does not come with bolts, or the correct bolts, you'll have to purchase them separately.

Place the puller on top of the steering wheel shaft. Run the threaded shaft of the puller down, until at least 3 to 4 threads of the shaft, are showing on the steering wheel side. Now place a threaded bolt in the slot on the outside part of the bar.

Run the bolt down into the steering wheel threaded hole on one side. Make sure it goes in at least 1/2 inch. Do the same with the threaded bolt for the other side.
Adjust the length of the threaded shaft of the puller, so that the two outside bolts will go in as advised. Adjust the threaded shaft out, or in. Be SURE the two threaded bolts, are threaded down into the steering wheel the same depth, and the bolts are the same length!

Now turn the threaded shaft of the steering wheel puller in, with a ratchet and socket, to remove the steering wheel. (Turn the shaft to the Right)

6.Now remove the steering wheel lock ring. The steering wheel lock ring tool is now used.
There is a cylindrical shaped piece that has threads on the inside of it, and has a hole at the top, that a lock pin slides through, for the above tool. This cylindrical shaped piece is threaded down onto the steering wheel shaft.

The tool has a handle shaped like a screwdriver handle, and a shaft attached to the handle. The shaft goes down into the cylindrical shaped piece. Then the lock pin goes through the cylindrical shaped piece, and also a hole in the shaft of the tool. This lock pin locks the cylindrical shaped piece to the shaft of the tool.

BEFORE the cylindrical shaped piece is pinned to the shaft, you slide a U shaped piece up on the shaft. (Thought it would be better to explain it this way)
The opening of the U, goes down towards the steering wheel. It's U shaped to clear the steering wheel shaft.

As you turn the handle of the tool to the right, it pushes the U shaped piece down. The U shaped piece then depresses the steering wheel lock ring down.
(There is a Thick metal spring under the steering wheel lock ring)

You have to take a metal pick, and a small flat tip screwdriver, and remove the round snap ring. May take a little finesse, and a few tries. Use patience. Now back the steering wheel lock ring tool off. (Turn to the Left) The steering wheel lock ring will come up, so that you can take it off. Remove the spring. Remove the plastic horn contact assembly. Now you can see the screws to remove the turn signal switch.

Sep 28, 2009 | 1972 Oldsmobile 98

1 Answer


The brake light switch is located up under the dash board where the brake pedal lever connects to its pivot point, follow the brake pedal up and under the dash with aflash light or droplight get on your back and look up under the dash near the brake pedal lever you will see a switch that has wire plug going to it remove the plug and and nuts snd bolts holding switch on, this switch may just have a locknut on a threaded shaft loosen locknut and unscrew the switch that screws into its support brack ( NOTE; before removing mark the threaded rod part of switch with a sharpy or magik marker for reference purposes during installation of new switch the new switch must be adjusted to the right depth for the switch to activate at the correct point of pedal application.

Aug 04, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Cant break the nut on the front hub free to expose the wheel bear

no , threads are normal , the torque is like 175-200 ft lbs , if your not using air tools you might put a pipe over your 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet , for more leverage , have somebody hold the brake pedal inside while you break it loose . keep trying . we know you can do it .


Jan 18, 2009 | 2003 Kia Sedona

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