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the tachometer works from the pulse generated for the spark in the ECM or in the ignition control module
the meter is extremely unreliable at cranking speed so at best the needle may flicker at anything under 150 rpms cranking speed
no spark can be from
cam/crank position sensor problems
broken timing belt / chain
ignition control module
run the fault codes to get an idea of the area of failure
The first step is to determine if it's a spark, fuel, or compression problem. Here's a quick way to find out which of the three is missing. Remove a plug wire, insert a Phillips screwdriver or spare plug piece of bare wire into the plug wire boot and place the end near the engine block (do not hold the plug wire while cranking the engine unless you want a shocking experience). If there's a spark when the engine is cranked, it has ignition. The problem is either fuel or compression. If the engine has an overhead cam with a timing belt, loosen the cover over the timing belt and check the belt. If the belt is okay, the problem is no fuel. Listen for the electric fuel pump in the fuel tank to make a buzzing noise when the ignition is turned on (you may have to open the gas cap to hear it). You won't hear anything if the pump has died. Diagnostics can now be focused on the fuel pump circuit to determine if the pump, relay or wiring is causing the no start. If the relay has voltage but the pump isn't running, you'll probably have to drop the fuel tank to check the wiring connector at the pump. If the problem is no spark, anything in the ignition circuit that creates the spark may be at fault. Use your AutoTap Express DIY to look for an RPM signal from the Crankshaft Position sensor while cranking the engine. A bad Crankshaft Position sensor is a common cause of no starts. The signal from this sensor goes to the PCM or ignition module that switches the ignition coil(s) on and off. If you have an RPM signal, a bad ignition module or PCM may not be switching the coil(s) on and off. Using a voltmeter, check for voltage at the coils with the key on and while cranking the engine. The voltage should be switching on and off. In ignition systems with a single coil and distributor, a bad coil or a cracked distributor cap or rotor can prevent the spark plugs from firing. On multi-coil, distributorless ignition systems and coil-on-plug systems; one coil failure may cause an engine to misfire, but it won't prevent it from starting. What's causing the no-start? All engines require three things to start and run: spark, fuel and compression. If any one of these isn't there, you aren't going anywhere
? 5:13 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSWN1M8Hoqo
May 19, 2010 - Uploaded by FrankHurtAuto
Simulation of no start with no spark diagnosing, ... I do get power but no flash on the light when cranking engine. Read more Show less. Reply
Engine Won't Start No Spark - Auto Diagnosis Repair Helpaa1car.com/library/no_spark.htmEngine won't start problem caused by no spark. ... If you have a scan tool, plug it into the vehicle diagnostic connector and look for an rpm signal when cranking ...Spark Related No Start Problems on Car - Auto Repair
check all fuses first, every time, something fails EFI.
the scan tool will tell you why 90 % of time.
connect scan tool
crank for 5 seconds, see scan tool show 300 RPM? about.
good, no RPM is bad sensor (Cmp or ckp)
release key , do not turn off yet
see DTCs stored, now, bingo, its telling you what is bad. OMG.
p0340/ 355? and the like? are bad CMP, bad CKP, or others get em
post em or look them up in the FSM. or at alldata.com
the ECU creates spark
there are the 2 sensors that tell the ECU when to spark (inputs)
and the ECU DRIVER the ignition IGNOTOR, that runs the ignition coil.
1 coil or 6 coils. depends on year.
4.0L I6 Jeep engines.
did you check for spark directly at the 1 coil car or at all 6 coils for 6 cop coil cars?
cops are coil over park plug, i think your car is 1 coil, had a 99 jeep.
and this old six still had one, coil, so does this one coil make spark
to a test spark plug, Y/N
if yes, the dizzy cap is bad or wired wrong. to plugs.
I no spark here, do the DTC scans above.!!!!!
post back results.
all cars must crank first, if no crank it can never start unless its a M/T car (stick) and you push start it. it cranks robustly, i will ASSUME. since you said spark is dead, on all 4 spark plugs??? or just one. no power?, spark has 2 powers. the primary side, and the high voltage (danger) side. i guess you meant no HV spark but on how many?
with all electrical failures, the first step is, check all fuses. open the glove box ,extract the oper guide and read the page called fuses. shows them all, in cab and engine bay. are they good.? Use and ohmmeter, to test fuses. fuse that look bad are, fuse that look good, can be bad,
if all spark is dead on all 4 spark plugs, the CKP sensor my be dead, 2.0L engine? I4, has 4 spark plugs. (with COPS) Check list: 1: all fuses good. 2: dash lamps work and head lights, engine cranks FAST. (normal) 3: key on, (noat cranked) CEL lamp comes on, does it? if not, the ECU is dead. (or fuse blown to PCM )
dumb questions, using a strobe light does not prove out spark ! can i assume the spark test is with real test spark plug ? not other ways? (say so) use a real spark plug to test spark. with proper gap set and shell of spark plug grounded. in the USA, (not stated ) the 2L has 4 COP coils we must check spark at each end of each COP tip (boot end). if JUST (say)#1 is bad, that is TYPE A failure (a bad cop?) if all 4 are dead? that is TYPE B failure. bad CKP, or bad CMP in english , bad cranks sensor or bad cam (I) sensor.
the FSM is online, and the tests are there, a real FSM is the best doing DIY work with out the book is near impossible, and 10x that , after 2004 or so (insane complexity began) some cars have immobilizers. or alarms that cut spark. i cant see your car or its options.... i can only presume you read the operators guide, and watched the dash lamps as it instructs you. keep in mind all web help is blind. and in this complex world , makes for bad advice (even mine)
must be 90s week? no starts, but cranks fully and full crank speed, which is near 300 rpm, called robust cranking but notarts. its flooded. (compression not above150PSI) means the timing belt has slipped. and will never run right again, ever do the 60k tuneup yet. if not , why not? flooding.? so many way to flood. 1: spark plug tips x4 all wet with fuel. use the cracking (wide open throttle like the op.guide shows) this cuts all fuel, (EFI) 2: no spark, check spark x4 and if all 4 are dead, try the coil. if the coil is dead, no spark there, then the dizzy is toast. 90 cars are a stand alone dizzy, meaning ECU is not doing this. 3: Flooding can be caused by other things. see em all here. over 28 ways ! but there are only really 3 ways. 1: bad engine (60k tuneup skipped.) 2: bad spark 3: bad fueling.
it is one of those, there are 2 exceptions. 1: EGR main stuck open. (this kills fueling to start and low rpm) 2: CAT melted (this kills an engine, it cant pump air. ) http://www.fixkick.com/flooding.html
all fuses good, using ohm meter tests in hand. or better 12v on both ends of fuse key on? K12a, 16valves, DOHC, chain cam motor.) well you are on track, no spark, that be real. huh> the immo (slang for UK immobilizer) for other readers. so not TDC codes, but that is not all there is, you can attach a scan tool and see if you have CMP/CKP sigs, and RPM cranking. crank for 5 seconds to see if these critical to spark parts are in fact working. single distrib? (the 2 forms of k12a ) a= real japan engine not china. new cap, new rotor, , no china rotors that mount backwards allowed.? do you have schematic of your engine EFI? you really need that, or finding problems can be very hard. in usa we have 3 major sources here , all on line, to get that fast. do you? have that in UK? do you have a suz, dealer? with shop man? we have mitchells,alldata, and chiltons all on line for this. we also have the for free in public libs here... diagnosis. (ill assume its flooding) prevents fire and ring damage. 1: i cut the fuel pump by pulling FP relay. 2: then check spark,,if spark is bad to all 4 spark plugs, that's right 4. then check spark directly at the COIL, some cars have hidden coil.and can be checked, ask. if spark is bad at coil, HV terminal. then check for Ignitor drive pulses. if good then coils is bad. (good input, bad output, bad coil) if the ignitor is dead, check its input, if input bad , ECU is not sending inputs. this can happen for only few reasons. in no order. 1: bad ecu 2: no cmp or ckp signals. 3: lost power to ECU, fuses, IF car has dash tachometer, is it dead, cranking , no 300 rpm cranking? scan too. RPM dead. cranking. no CMP /CKP errors cranking from ECU DTC, ERRORS ON SAME.? That is how i do this, and never fail. better is: 1: compression good? 2: spark good and timed 3: good fueling? you fail #2 (lets work that)
Usually if no rpm signal, the vehicle won't start. Engine cranking, did you check for spark at the spark plugs? The fuel pressure you listed may have been the initial prime. It sounds like no injector pulse. The rpm signal comes from crank sensor. If your missing rpm signal, may thought is the crank sensor.
Were there any applicable trouble codes?
There may be no injector pulse if the computor does not see a RPM signal. There will be no spark if the ignition module does not see a dist pulse from the dist pickup.......a RPM signal. Because you do not have both ......I would suggest to check/change the dist pick up. Follow the wires from the ignition module inside the dist to the pickup which is also inside the dist. If it is just a bad dist pickup....keep all your old parts as good spares. Also...is the dist turning? to provide a RPM signal? You will have to remove the dist to change the pick-up.....mark your timing locations......"rotor position" and "dist body location"before removal. A quick test before installing the "repaired dist" .....plug it in the the truck wiring and turn on the key....DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE OR YOU WILL LOSE YOUR DIST ROTOR CORRECT POSITION......as you spin the dist by hand .....the injectors should spray.