I had a problem with my battery going dead. Since I beleive it's the original equipment and now 4 - 5 years old, I replaced it. The battery was not the issue. If I let my car sit for more than a day, there is some sort of electrical leach in the car that drains the battery. From Friday after work until Monday morning, the car needs to be jump started. I bought it at CarMax, have the extended warranty, and even CarMax doesn't know what is causing it. I shut everything off when I get out of the car now - radio, fan, A/C, even the cruise. But it's still dead on monday morning.
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I beleive that it is a loose ground on the dash board cluster it is very dificult to ppinpoint but everything is happening because off a loose wire causing the dash to loose power and thats why it goes dead and the speedomiters and tac go dead. I wouldnt suggest doing it urself i would take it to a mechanic to have it fixed
i beleive you are talking about an emergency release for the gear shift . this is designed so that in the event of a dead battery or another problem you can put the key in the slot and move the gear shift into neutral. it should not reset anything on the car but realize that if your battery is dead then when you charge it or replace it the cars systems may reset themselves due to loss of power.
Have a fuel pressure leak down test run on the fuel pump. This is a symptom of the electric pump pressure check valve being defective, the valve is part of the fuel pump and it is mounted in the fuel tank. Also make sure you are using 87 Octane gasoline, higher octanes can cause stall issues on cold starts.
TO PROTECT THE HANDS FROM BATTERY ACID, A SUITABLE PAIR OF HEAVY DUTY RUBBER GLOVES SHOULD BE WORN WHEN REMOVING OR SERVICING A BATTERY. SAFETY GLASSES ALSO SHOULD BE WORN.
REMOVE METALLIC JEWELRY TO AVOID INJURY BY ACCIDENTAL ARCING OF BATTERY CURRENT
Make sure ignition switch is in OFF position and all accessories are OFF.
Remove the air cleaner housing.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable then the positive cable.
Loosen bolt (4) and retainer (1) that holds the battery down to the tray.
Lift battery out of battery tray and remove from vehicle.
Remove thermal guard (if equipped) from battery.
CAUTION: Vehicles equipped with the turbocharged engine use a unique battery hold down. If the replacement battery is not identical, in size to the original, it may be necessary to use non-corrosive spacers on top of the hold down retainer to properly secure the battery in the battery tray.
When replacing battery, the thermal guard MUST be transferred to the new battery (if equipped).
Install battery in vehicle making sure that the thermal guard (if equipped) is present and battery is properly positioned on battery tray.
Install battery hold down hardware (1), (2), (3) and (4) making sure that it is properly positioned on battery. Torque clamp to 12.5 N.m (110 in. lbs.) .
I'm going to bet you need a new battery. Car batteries don't last forever, and that you got 4 years on the original is pretty good. Take it to a WalMart. They've got a good warranty on car batteries when you buy a good one for about $80.00..
OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer, and my question was, is the radio the original for this car, or was it installed later as a swap or replacement?
On my VW, safe will come up initially, then 1000, then a short time later, it will resume normal operation, after you turn it on the first time.
Do you have the original Owner Manual for the car? If so, the code number and how to enter the code is usually left in there (unless the original owner took it out.). There is a way to get a new code, but let's not go there just yet (after all "you just a girl" ). :~)
Is this the original battery? Have u had it tested? The no crank, clicking noise is classic dead battery symptoms, lights can still work, but not enough power to turn engine over. If it's the original battery, it's at the end of it's life cycle, and should be replaced. U can get the battery tested for free at any parts store.