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On a Polaris 4 wheeler there is a voltage regulator or something between the alternator and battery also on this Polaris. Could it be part of the problem, if it cannot sustain running.

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Posted on Dec 12, 2016

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KUN 26 D4D Hilux...something is draining the battery over 3 or 4 days...Alternater putting in 13.85v but battery goes flat over 4-5 days


13.85 volts is barely sufficient and would indicate an alternator fault if the reading was taken "off-load"..

An alternator is not designed to charge the battery and is incapable of doing so because the terminal voltage of the battery quickly rises to fool the voltage regulator into believing even a discharged battery is fully charged and will quickly reduce the charge rate to a trickle.

The alternator is therefore designed to keep a fully charged battery fully charged by supplying all the current for the vehicle equipment and the output rating is chosen for this purpose.

The voltage regulator should limit the off-load voltage to about 14.5 volts but that is only a small part of the alternator test. A professional would apply a load across the battery equal to the rated output while monitoring the voltage and current. Most healthy alternators exceed specifications.

For a sensible in-service test when an adjustable load isn't available, with a fully-charged battery it is sufficient to start the engine, leaving it to idle and switch on all the vehicle equipment. Fit a voltmeter to the battery and wait while the battery voltage is pulled down by the load - to around 12.5 volts. Raising the engine speed to 2500/3000 rpm should cause the voltmeter to suddenly rise.
13.85 would be just about acceptable "on-load" but in excess of 14.0 volts would be ideal.

Jul 10, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

The battery on my rhino loses volts when driving .battery dies then i have to boost it..something is drawing on the battery when the key is off ?????????


If the battery is not being properly charged while unit is running, it will go dead. You may have a problem with the voltage regulator or magneto causing the no charge issue

Mar 10, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2nd newly rebuilt alternator burning out.


Due to the nature of the battery technology used with vehicles the alternator is mostly incapable of charging the battery. The car alternator is designed to keep a fully charged battery fully charged and to provide all the power for the car equipment.

The alternator charge rate is regulated by a voltage regulator. Because the alternator output is connected to the battery, the alternator and battery voltage will be the same and the voltage regulator monitors that voltage.

The lower the battery voltage the more output the alternator will produce in order to correct the situation but because a lead acid battery has a high internal resistance to accepting a charge the terminal voltage will quickly rise to the alternator regulated voltage and fool the alternator into thinking the battery is fully charged when the output will drop to the order of just a couple of amps.

Switch on the headlights or a similar load that will lower the battery voltage and the alternator will increase it's output again - but only by the amount of current the headlamps or other load is consuming.
It matters not what the alternator rated maximum output is, it is designed to provide only the necessary current and no more.

The only time an alternator should ever need to produce maximum output is when on a dedicated testbed and then only for a short duration to avoid damaging the unit. Testing the current output on a modern vehicle is not recommended except for the regulated voltage testing and a rule-of-thumb output test where all equipment is switched on and the engine speed raised while the battery voltage is monitored.

Most modern alternators use an internal voltage regulator but a few systems use a separate voltage regulator. No alternator rebuild would be complete without a regulator test and probably a new or replacement regulator, which is where the majority of charging system problems are, or the brush gear.
Assuming the wiring is ok, no alternator should suffer any harm if the voltage regulator and auxilliary diodes (if fitted) are in good order though fitting a defective or a discharged battery can cause it to overheat and be damaged.

The alternator usually just about stops producing an output when the battery voltage is in the region of 14.5/14.8 volts.
Your description indicates the voltage regulator is not working correctly - unless 40 amps was being consumed by the car equipment the alternator should not have been producing 40 amps.. I suggest you also have your battery tested

May 12, 2017 | 1988 Acura Legend

2 Answers

I have a 1999 3,8L ford mustang my tester indecates the alt is overcharging,but the batt light is coming on but it goes off! is there anything i can do to besides replace the alt?


Your alternator-mounted voltage regulator has failed. Luckily, your voltage regulator is
replaceable separately from the alternator (most voltage regulators are integral to the alternator,
and cannot be separately serviced).

Note: this works for 3.8L cobra alternators/voltage regulators only - in the 4.6L model, the
voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator.

1999 Ford Mustang Cobra -3.8L engine

3.8L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove 4 Torx® head screws holding the voltage regulator to the alternator rear housing. Remove the regulator, with the brush and terminal holder attached.

Fig. 1. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are mounted on the backside of the alternator

archaeology_70.jpg


Fig. 2. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are secured by 4 Torx® head machine screws


archaeology_71.jpg

Fig. 3. Hold the regulator while removing the screws to prevent the regulator from dropping out and damaging the brushes

archaeology_72.jpg



3. Hold the regulator in one hand and pry off the cap covering the A terminal screw head with a small prybar.

4. Remove 2 Torx® head screws retaining the regulator to the brush holder. Separate the regulator from the brush holder.



Fig. 4. Slide the regulator out-the brushes will move out of the holder

archaeology_73.jpg


Fig. 5. The brush and terminal holder can be separated from the regulator once it is removed from the alternator

archaeology_74.jpg


=========================================================
To install:

1. Install the brush holder on the regulator with 2 retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).

2. Install the cap on the head of the A terminal screw.

3. Depress the brushes into the holder and hold the brushes in position by inserting a standard size paper clip, or equivalent tool, through both the location hole in the regulator and through the holes in the brushes.

Fig. 6. When installing the regulator, press the brushes back into the housing

archaeology_75.jpg


Fig. 7. Use a thin piece of soft material, like this plastic wire tie, to hold the brushes in position while replacing the regulator, or use a paper clip inserted in the hole

archaeology_76.jpg



4. Install the regulator/brush holder assembly and remove the paper clip. Install the attaching screws and tighten to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.3-3.4 Nm).

5. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jul 07, 2011 | 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra

1 Answer

I seem to have a charging of the battery problem. I would get 14 volts to my battery from my alternator and then 6 volts, i changed m alternator and things were going great, no problems. Now it is acting...


Hi,
If you were originally having a wild fluctuation in measurement at the battery the voltage regulator would have been shot. I'm not sure of what the condition was of the original alternator. But I would definitely have changed the voltage regulator. A bad regulator can ruin a battery and all sorts of other things. If you are now getting wild variations in voltage
1st Purchase and install a new voltage regulator. (probably about $20.00 these days.
Then check your new battery by doing the following:
1 Disconnect it from the truck's electrical system.
2 Charge it up using another vehicle and jumpers.
3 After disconnecting the battery from the jumpers, let it sit for a few minutes.
4 Check the voltage. If it is below 12 volts, the battery is shot. Replace it under warranty.
5 When you get the new battery, Install it in the truck and start it up. Then measure the voltages coming into the battery from the alternator and the new voltage regulator.
If all is well, your done.
If not. Pull the alternator and replace that.
Hope this helps,
Good Luck,
Mark

Jan 05, 2011 | 1988 Dodge Ram 50

2 Answers

Battery light comes on when stopped or at idle goes out when driving


sounds like the voltage regulator is malfunctioning.

Nov 13, 2010 | 2006 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Hello, I have a 1995 Buick Riviera w/3.8 ltr supercharged VIN 1. I replaced the old alternator for being noisy-bearing worn. I went to Autozone and got a replacement alternator. the alternator is not...


Use a jumper to connect the positive terminal of the battery to the terminal L input of the alternator. That will give 12V to the exciter circuit of the voltage regulator and turn on the alternator so that it can begin charging. If that makes a difference, there must be something wrong with the input to terminal L.

Oct 04, 2010 | 1997 Buick Riviera

3 Answers

Where is the voltge regulator on a 1989 lincoln town car


VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS LOCATED BEHIND BATTERY.YOU PROBABLY MIGHT HAVE TO REMOVE BATTERY TO REMOVE THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

May 16, 2010 | 1989 Lincoln Town Car

2 Answers

I have a 96 ford explorer I just replaced the battery and the alternator in it. When starrted the battery lite stays on and the alternator does not charge it. Is there a linkable fuse or something I am...


Trace all of the wires that are attached to the alternator. If there is a fusible link or a broken wire you will find it. If the alternator is charging but something else is wrong the alternator will pull a steel wrench toward it. You did not mention the voltage regulator. You will find it when tracing your wires. Look it over carefully. Voltage regulators fail keeping the alternator from working. Parts stores have regulators and they are easy to install.

Mar 21, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Would the voltage regulator prevent my passat from starting?


it shouldn't. the voltage regulator is located either internally on the alternator or on the outside of the alternator. it controls how much voltage is delivered from the alternator to the battery, 12-14 at idle and up to 16 ish when revving. i have never heard of a voltage regulator preventing a vehicle from starting unless the voltage regulator malfunctioned and the car got something like 20Volts. then maybe that would have an effect...
hope that helps...sort of....dead batteries also prevent vehicles from starting.....something to look at i guess

Jul 11, 2009 | 2001 Volkswagen Passat

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