Question about 2002 Audi A4

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What are the pipes called that are under the rocker for the air intake. audi a4 2.0 sport

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Inter cooler plumbing

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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P 2647"A" Rocker Arm Actuator


Your going to need a air pressure regulator or better yet if the ECM found fault price it and replace it
  1. Start the engine, and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
  2. Remove the cylinder head cover.
  3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC).
  4. Move the intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1 cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A should move independently of the secondary rocker arm B.
    1. If the intake secondary rocker arm A moves freely, go to step 5.
    2. If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then check that the pistons in the secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
    3. Repeat step 4 on the remaining intake secondary rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all the secondary rocker arms pass the test, go to step 6.
    4. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4.0 kgf/cm2, 57 psi).
    5. Inspect the valve clearance.
    6. Install a 10 x 1.0 mm adapter to the inspection hole, then connect the air pressure regulator
  5. With the specified air pressure applied, move the intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1 cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A and secondary rocker arm B should move together. If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the pistons in the secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
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Aug 23, 2011 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Do I have to take the timming belt off to do a head gasket on a 1999 chevy malibu v6 3.1L


The 3.1 engine does not have a belt,it is a chain motor.You do not need to remove timing chain to remove head.

Apr 12, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Need head bolt torqe for 3100 and should bolts be dry


The bolts should have thread lock on them when installing, and the torque is done in 2 steps. 33 ft lbs. and then 90 deg. after that on the second pass. 3.1L Engine CAUTION
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. LEFT SIDE (FRONT)
  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container.
  4. Disconnect the top half of the air cleaner assembly, then remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
  5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe heat shield and crossover pipe.
  6. Disconnect the spark plug wires from spark plugs and looms then route the wires out of the way.
  7. Remove the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  8. Remove upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold.
  9. Remove the left side exhaust manifold.
  10. Remove oil level indicator tube. NOTE: When removing the valve train components they must be kept in order for installation in the same locations they were removed from.
  11. Remove rocker arms nut, rocker arms, balls and pushrods.
  12. Unfasten the cylinder head bolts evenly, then remove the cylinder head from the engine compartment. Remove and discard the gasket. To install:
  13. Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. Clean the threads on the cylinder head bolts and block threads.
  14. Place the cylinder head gasket in position over the dowel pins on the cylinder block so the words THIS SIDE UP are showing.
  15. Coat the bolt threads lightly with sealer, then install finger-tight.
  16. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). With all the bolts tightened make a second pass tightening all the bolts an additional 90°.
  17. Install the pushrods, rocker arms, balls and rocker arm nuts in their proper locations. Tighten the rocker arm nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  18. Install the lower intake manifold and upper intake plenum.
  19. Install the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  20. Install the oil level indicator tube. Insert the dipstick.
  21. Connect the spark plug wires to spark plugs and looms.
  22. Install the left side exhaust manifold.
  23. Install the exhaust crossover pipe and heat shield.
  24. Refill the cooling system.
  25. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body air inlet duct.
  26. Connect negative battery cable.
  27. Start vehicle and verify that there are no leaks. Fig. 20: Cylinder head mounting and bolt tightening sequence - 3.1L engine 86883134.gif
RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD (REAR) CAUTION
Fuel Injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove the top half of the air cleaner assembly and remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
  5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe heat shield and crossover pipe.
  6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  7. Detach the Oxygen (O2) sensor connector.
  8. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
  9. Remove the right side exhaust manifold.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Disconnect the spark plug wires from spark plugs and wire looms and route the wires out of the way.
  12. Remove the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  13. Remove upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold. NOTE: When removing the valve train components they must be kept in order for installation in the same locations they were removed from.
  14. Remove rocker arms nut, rocker arms, balls and pushrods.
  15. Unfasten the cylinder head bolts evenly, then remove the cylinder head from the engine compartment. Remove and discard the gasket. To Install:
  16. Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. Clean the threads on the cylinder head bolts and block threads.
  17. Place the cylinder head gasket in position over the dowel pins on the cylinder block so the words THIS SIDE UP showing.
  18. Coat the bolt threads lightly with sealer, then install finger-tight.
  19. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). With all the bolts tightened make a second pass tightening all the bolts an additional 90°.
  20. Install the pushrods loosely retained with the rocker arm assemblies. Make sure all pushrods are in the correct locations. Coat the ends of the pushrods with prelube. The intake rods are marked yellow and are 5 3?4 inch long. The exhaust pushrods are marked green and 6 inches long. balls and rocker arm nuts. Tighten the rocker arm nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  21. Install the lower intake manifold and upper intake plenum.
  22. Install the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  23. Connect the spark plug wires to spark plugs and wire looms.
  24. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  25. Install the exhaust manifold.
  26. Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
  27. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  28. Connect the Oxygen (O2) sensor wiring.
  29. Install the exhaust crossover pipe and heat shield.
  30. Refill the cooling system.
  31. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body air inlet duct.
  32. Connect negative battery cable.
  33. Start vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.
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Feb 04, 2011 | 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

Intakegasket for grandam gt


Exactly what is the wrong? Need the part? Need to know torque adjust or porcedure to take off?

For
1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl check this procedure for Intake Manifold...
(see Figure 14)
The 3.1L engine is equipped with upper and lower intake manifolds. The upper intake manifold is also known as the intake manifold plenum.

CAUTION The fuel system is under pressure and must be properly relieved before disconnecting the fuel lines. Failure to properly relieve the fuel system pressure can lead to personal injury and component damage.
  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove top half of the air cleaner assembly and throttle body duct.
  4. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
  5. Disconnect the EGR pipe from exhaust manifold.
  6. Remove the serpentine belt.
  7. Remove the brake vacuum pipe at the intake plenum.
  8. Disconnect the control cables from the throttle body and intake plenum mounting bracket.
  9. Remove the power steering lines at the alternator bracket.
  10. Remove the alternator.
  11. Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and wire retainers on the intake plenum.
  12. Remove the ignition assembly and the EVAP canister purge solenoid together.
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Fig. 14: View of the intake manifold and related components

  1. Disconnect the upper engine wiring harness connectors at the following components:
    Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Idle Air Control (IAC) Fuel Injectors Coolant temperature sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
  2. Tag and disconnect the vacuum lines from the following components:
    Vacuum modulator Fuel pressure regulator PCV valve
  3. Disconnect the MAP sensor from upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove the upper intake plenum mounting bolts and lift off the plenum.
  5. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and bracket.
  6. Install engine support fixture special tool J 28467-A or an equivalent.
  7. Remove the right side engine mount.
  8. Remove the power steering mounting bolts and support the pump out of the way without disconnecting the power steering lines.
  9. Disconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the outlet housing.
  10. Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump and the cylinder head.
  11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
  12. Remove the thermostat housing.
  13. Remove both rocker arm covers.
  14. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. Make sure the washers on the four center bolts are installed in their original locations.
When removing the valve train components they should be kept in order for installation the original locations.
  1. Remove the rocker arm retaining nuts or bolts and extract the rocker arms and pushrods.
  2. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. Remove and discard the gasket.
  3. Using a suitable scraper, clean gasket material from all mating surfaces. Remove all excess RTV sealant from front and rear ridges of cylinder block
To install:
  1. Place a 0.12 inch (3mm) bead of RTV, on each ridge, where the front and rear of the intake manifold contact the block.
  2. Using a new gasket, place the intake manifold on the engine.
  3. Install the pushrods in their original locations. Coat the pushrods with prelube.
The intake pushrods are marked yellow (5 3 /4 inch long) and the exhaust are green (6 inches long). Make sure the pushrods are properly seated in the valve lifters and rocker arms.
  1. Position the rocker arms in there original locations and tighten to specifications. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section.
  2. Install lower the intake manifold attaching bolts. Apply sealant 12345739 (or equivalent thread locking compound) to the threads of bolts. Tighten the vertical bolts first then the diagonal bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
  3. Install the front rocker arm cover.
  4. Install the thermostat housing.
  5. Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
  6. Fasten the coolant inlet pipe to thermostat housing.
  7. Connect coolant bypass pipe at the water pump and cylinder head.
  8. Install the power steering pump in the mounting bracket.
  9. Loosely install the serpentine belt.
  10. Connect the right side engine mount.
  11. Remove the special engine support tool.
  12. Fasten the fuel lines to fuel rail and bracket.
  13. Install the upper intake manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  14. Install the MAP sensor.
  15. Connect the upper engine wiring harness connectors to the related components removed earlier.
  16. Connect the vacuum lines to the PCV, vacuum modulator and fuel pressure regulator.
  17. Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid and ignition assembly.
  18. Install the alternator assembly.
  19. Connect the power steering line to the alternator bracket.
  20. Install the serpentine belt.
  21. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and intake plenum wire retainer.
  22. Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
  23. Attach the control cables to the throttle body lever and upper intake plenum mounting bracket.
  24. Install air intake assembly and top half of the air cleaner assembly.
  25. Install the brake vacuum pipe.
  26. Fill the cooling system.
  27. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.

For PARTS REPLACEMENT check in THIS LINK: carpartswholesale.com

Hope helps.

Feb 01, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

I want to put a k&n air filter on my 1999 audi a3 1.8t sport, but what are the wires for on the air filter box?


Most likely the intake air temperature sensor.
The on-board computer needs this to monitor the temp of the outside air so as to provide optimum engine performance.
If you insist on installing an exposed air filter, you must retain the IAT sensor and mount it somewhere close to the K&N filter.

May 09, 2010 | Audi A3 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Intake manifold bolts torque and rocker arm torque


Intake Manifold Coolant Pipe Bolt .... 89 in lbs (7.4166 ft. lbs)
Lower Intake Manifold Bolt .............. 115 in. lbs (9.5833 ft. lbs)
Upper Intake Manifold Bolt/Stud ...... 18 ft. lbs
Valve Rocker Arm Bolt ................... 168 in. lbs (14 ft. lbs +30 degress

Feb 06, 2010 | 1999 Buick Century

1 Answer

How to change out valve cover gaskets on a 1989 Lincoln Town Car


This is All you need for this Repair, ALSO Be Sure ALL GASKET SURFACES ARE VERY CLEAN. This Engine Requires MORE than MOST ALL Engines do for this Repair.

REMOVAL

  1. To remove a valve rocker arm cover from the RH cylinder head, disconnect PCV closure tube from oil fill stand pipe at rocker cover.
  2. Remove the Thermactor bypass valve and air supply hoses as necessary to provide clearance.
  3. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A or equivalent. Do not pull on wire. Remove the wires and bracket assembly from the rocker arm cover attaching stud and position the wires out of the way. ALSO MARK THEM AS TO WHERE THEY CAME FROM !!!
  4. Remove upper intake manifold.
  5. Remove attaching bolts and remove the cover.
INSTALLATION

  1. Clean the valve rocker arm cover(s) and the cylinder head gasket surface(s). Position a new service valve rocker cover gasket.
  2. Position the cover(s) on the cylinder head(s). The cover is tightened in two steps. Tighten the bolts to 14-18 N.m (10-13 lb-ft). Two minutes later, tighten the bolts to the same specification.
  3. Install the crankcase ventilation tube in the RH cover.
  4. Install upper intake manifold.
  5. Install the spark plug wires and bracket assembly on the rocker arm cover attaching stud. Connect the spark plug wires. Install the air intake duct assembly.
  6. Install the Thermactor bypass valve and air supply hoses (if required).

Oct 03, 2009 | 1989 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

1999 AUDI A6 SAI continues to short out due to fresh water. Audi mechanics can not find cause


short out ?? fresh water ?? ---the computer for both the car and the autobox are under the front passenger floorwell LHD ,The air con outlet pipe for the condensate from the AC is damaged or blocked hence the water in the electrics .ANOTHER CASE OF SO CALLED DEALER MECHANICS ------ old saying if you only pay peanuts you only employ monkeys

Jun 23, 2009 | 2000 Audi A6

3 Answers

1994 Suzuki Vitara V6 H20A Engine smoking intermittently from exhaust


I have a Mazda which in Australia (here) is called a 323 Astina, overseas a 323f, Familia, etc.
It uses a 2.0L Mazda KF Engine very similar to (in fact co-developed with) the Suzuki H20A engine, except designed to be transverse, variable resonance induction and other different tuning inc. 7000 redline, and probably not as reliable as an H20A.
I've had the engine rebuilt because I want to keep this car for a while and it needed it. Oil slipped past the rings which burned out grooves on one of the exhaust valves on Cyl-6 to the point where that cylinder had no compression...
... but I still get smoke occasionally, as you describe yours except not as often nor on the open road at speed. It happened ever since the first time I changed the oil after the rebuild. The tech who rebuilt it used a grade of oil I couldn't find and, liking synthetics, I used a lighter oil.
About the time you were writing your message, I replaced the rubber intake pipe feeding the throttle body and I noticed the inside of the intake manifold lined liberally with oil. The old pipe had oil only at one end.
The pipe I replaced didn't just go from the air mass sensor on the filter box to the throttle body. There was also a large pipe to an air reservoir (a lengthy pipe sealed at one end so that if you open the throttle quickly, you don't have to wait for more air to be filtered before it enters the engine, supposedly) and a tiny pipe to PCV valve.
It's not a long pipe so it's easy to look inside. The reason I'm boring you with all of that detail is because you'll almost certainly have a different one, but this is still most probably something you'll find feeding your intake manifold a supply of oil. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve runs from one of the rocker covers (not that we have rockers) into a pipe feeding into this intake pipe. It's supposed to **** air in from the intake pipe due to a vacuum created by another pipe connecting from another part of the crankcase to the intake manifold (after the throttle body so it has a lower pressure than the intake pipe) and that might be happening in my engine but oil is, or was before the rebuild, seeping back into the intake pipe.
Being a transverse version of your engine, the PCV valve is on the front bank and the pipe from it to the intake pipe is quite short. The PCV valve is also situated above (if I remember correctly) a cam lobe so at higher revs, the oil gets flicked up into the PCV valve.
... so use an oil which is thicker at high temperature, do a compression test, or as I'm considering, run the pipe from the PCV valve into a canister to catch the oil before feeding the gasses into the intake manifold. That way less of the thinner oil will be burned off and I'll have a better chance at getting away with using it.
I use 15W40 Oil - viscosity of 15 weight (units?) when hot, 40 in Winter (which the W stands for). I should use 20Wxx, perhaps, to burn less oil.
This engine likes thin oil, it just goes on to liking it enough to inhale it. This engine also likes higher revs.
Hope that helps.

Jul 31, 2008 | 1999 Suzuki Vitara

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