Question about 2003 Ford F-150
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
place truck on ramps or jack stands, rfmove battery cables from battery, go under truck locate starter, remove wires connected to starter, remove bolts from starter, it will fall out if not careful
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
I recently changed them and it was a job when you have to crawl up and inside the engine area. But anyways, I started out by buying the E3 plugs, which don't have to be gapped and they do save a little gas plus increased in a little more power. (not much), These set me back $56. go with a basic motorcraft platinum or bosch platinum. I then removed the top engine cover, removed bolts for fuel rail and easily pulled the injector rail up (you will see to replace the o-rings on the injectors by some people, but if you're careful you don't have to.) This gives you the room you need at the back of the engine to remove the plugs. I started at the front by removing the small bolt holding the coil in place, then removing the the coil/wire with a boot removal tool. ( Again you don't need this tool, but it comes in handy at the back plugs). After removing the coil, I simply remove the plug, Apply anti-seize to the new one and install plug. I then apply Di-Electric grease to the inside of the coil boot to prevent moisture getting in. I then install the coil back down on the plug and tighten down and move on to the next.
1. you will need a swivel for the socket
2. you will need an extension, ( I use a long 8" extension)
3. Anti-Seize Grease
4. Di-Electric Grease
5. If installing a plug to be gapped it is .54
6. After installing, check for fuel leaks at the injectors.
It took me about 1 1/2 hours to replace all plugs and a dealer charges about $375. Good Luck if you need any further help get back to me and I'll help any I can.
Posted on Aug 17, 2010
You most likely have a bad spark plug coil and or plug. First recomendation go to your local parts store and have them put a code reader on it. It should tell you what cylinder is missfiring under load. Once you identify replace the coil. Cost $45-$60. Also replace the plug. After this you should be back in business. This is common with the 5.4L engine. Depending on the cylinder involved the coil can be difficult to get to so take your time. Definently and easy do it yourself repair.
Posted on Sep 24, 2010
go to this website for a detailed outline of the vacuum routing
Posted on Dec 10, 2010
SOURCE: 04 FORD F150 5.4L TRITON,NOISE
there is also a small valve body you are supposed to replace when replaceing the phasers... also there is a ssm for replacing the valve lash adjusters. alot of time the small engine tick you hear can be a cracked exhaust manifold too so checking those really close is heavily advised because the cracks are really hard to see sometimes. i have seen broken push rods on these engines and they can be a pain to pinpoint where the noise is comming from. hope this helps
Posted on Jan 19, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 11, 2016 | 2003 Ford F-150
Nov 29, 2016 | 2003 Ford F-150
Nov 29, 2016 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks
Jan 17, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 25, 2014 | 2003 Ford F150 Regular Cab
Sep 25, 2011 | Cars & Trucks
Aug 29, 2010 | 1995 Ford F150 Styleside Regular Cab
Mar 17, 2017 | 2003 Ford F-150
Jul 15, 2009 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab
34 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: