Question about 2006 BMW 650i
If your talking about the heater fan, there is a resistor by the blower motor. I don't know for sure about your car, but most are under the passenger side dash. Remove the kick panel and you'll see the blower motor. The resistor is right by it. Before I remove it. I pull the blower plug and put power and ground to the blower , Just to make it isn't the problem. 95% of the time it is the resistor.
Posted on Dec 11, 2016
There aren't any. 60A FUSE F9 in the front fuse holder is the power source. Operation is controlled by the digital motor electronics control unit. In the integrated supply module, 10A FUSE F009 is the source of radiator shutter solenoid power and 30A FUSE F005 is the source of characteristic map thermostat power.
Posted on Dec 11, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The future problems? Now that really narrows down the possibilities. The biggest problem is running out of money once the warranty expires. The second biggest problem would be letting the wife or kids drive it.
Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. These are very high maint. cars.
Electric seat motor and cables should go kaput. As will the drivers side electric window. The rear tailights will get water in them and quit. The oxygen sensor will quit leaving a check engine light on. The Bosch electric fuel pump IN the tank will quit as well, leaving you stranded. Get it replaced every 40-60 thou miles.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
I was going to sugest you make the fans run just like you told me above until we can get this ironed out. A better way to wire it or in my case unwire it is to unplug a wire.
On the side of the fan look for the power wire and follow it up along the motor until you see a spot where you can unplug it. remove your wiring job before you do this. Have the emergency brake on and the car in park and start the engine. Then watch out for your shirt tails and anything like fingers that could catch in the fan. Unplug the wire at the conncting point and while the car is running the fan should take off. If not then replug that wire back and see if another wire is available to try it again. If it does then shut off the car and the fan should shut off too. This will make it so you don't have to undo the battery wire everytime you get out of the car.
You may also find that while tracing those wires you might come across one that was inadvertanly knocked loose. Is so look for where it plugs in. I did that once on my Mazda while I was working on something else in the general area. Chnging a thermostat I believe.. A friend spotted it undone and the fan worked perfectly again after i connected it back up and I didn't need to short cut to keep the fan on. If you leave the fan on like we are doing here it will not hurt the engine at all. It may take the car a little bit longer to warm up the heater when in cold weather but the heater will still warm up.. Let me know if you get our quick fix going? In the mean time you should have a diagram on your fuse box cover or underneither the cover. I am not sure what that sensor is called either. In the older models they had what they called an engine sending unit for the temperature gauge but on these new models??? I would just pull one fuse at a time---look at it to see if the wire inside is burnt in two and if so replace it with the same amp fuse. If not replace it to the same place it came out of and go on to the next fuse until you have gone through all of them. It is wise to check them all even if you find the first bad one. Sometimes more have burnt out as well. You might also have a fuse box under the hood. After checking all of them under the dash and you had no luck then look for the other fuse box and check there too. If worst comes to worst after we have complete this annoying hassel here then let me know and we can try something else. You can also type in cooling fan won't work on your model and year and see if they come up with the name of any sensors/sending units and they're location. keep in touch, The Raz and you can just call me Raz LOL
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
I replaced mine yesterday (9/20/10) on my 05 chrysler town and counrty 3.3l.
Same situation - the fan ran on its own without the keys in and when the van was cold - def the fan relay.
This is what you do: First of all - the part sold at Advance auto is not the correct part. Auto Zone has the right part - it is much larger than the one sold at Advance and has the "pin cusion" top. The other one will NOT work at all.
There is no need to take out the head light or remove the bumper fascia - the relay is located on the top portion the of bumber cross bar, directly behind the rubber grill. The grill is easily removed - take out the 5 screws on top and carefully pull out the tabs holding the grill to the front end skin. You will see the relay right there - its huge!
I drilled out the large rivet holding it in place and then disconnected it. I then shifted (rotated) the new part in order to avoid the massive hole that the rivet was in and used a self tapping metal screw to afix the new relay in place. Reconnect the harness and you are good to go.
The total job took less than 15 minutes.
If you still see the engine light on - remove the ground wire on your battery for a few seconds and when you re-attach the battery - the light will be gone. Fixed!
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
SOURCE: where is the exact location
It is located in the fuse box under the hood third one in the row .The cover on the fuse box has a digram on it so you can pinpoit it's location of the relay's and fuses.
Posted on Jun 17, 2011
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