Question about 2006 Chevrolet Aveo
I'm not sure I understand your problem? Did you replace wires one at a time? I guess I need more info?
Posted on Dec 09, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
For the 2004 Chevrolet Aveo 1.6L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder:
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Posted on Apr 22, 2010
do not have a diagram, but heres the firing order. 1-2-3-4-5-6, 1-3-5 is in back, # 1 is closest to alternator. from left to right, or facing engine from front 2-4-6 is in front. 5-2-3-6-4-1 is coil pack, from left to right (facing from front of engine).
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
There are 2 6 cylinder engines for that year. Both are the same as far as wiring/firing order but gave you both anyway(see below). There have been times that I thought I did the same thing as far as the firing order and have been doing it for 25+ years. Sometime i did and sometimes I didn't. So if you find the wiring is correct and you seem to have a miss, In about 90 percent of the time that this has happened to me I had knock a vacuum hose off so you might want to start there if they are right. It sure sounded like a miss at those times but was vacuum. There are other factors but that's where I would start if this is the case. I hope this helps and good luck.
Posted on May 01, 2011
SOURCE: 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L
Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.
First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)
So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.
Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.
Posted on May 08, 2011
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