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Hi does anyone know how to remove the transmission on a 190e 4 cylinder the whole drive train is out of the vehicle, I have removed all the bolts on the bell housing but I can not get the trans off

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  • Zain Abdulla Dec 10, 2016

    I have taken out all the bolts the gearbox comes away about 5mm but won't come off the fly wheel



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  • Cars & Trucks Expert
  • 236 Answers

YOU also have to take the bolts from the torque converter, remove the starter bolts as well

Posted on Dec 09, 2016


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 77499 Answers


take the trans mount and cross memeber out and let the engine tilt down with a floor Jack, then u can get at the top bolts, u will need a 3 foot extension and a wobbly socket. As far as the cost of the trans work goes could you break it down by parts and labor, also what is the hourly labor rate, here it is $115 per hour. One last not be careful of the connectors to the trans, break them and u will need a new wiring harness, about $450.

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

michigan man
  • 3533 Answers


go by a place that installs transmissions and see if they have a diagram for the car you are working on make sure you have a good floor jack and someone to assist you

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 94 Answers

SOURCE: I am removing a transmission

Make sure to remove your transmission cooling lines that run from tranny to radiator also.

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

  • 94 Answers

SOURCE: Transmission removal

Dont forget the speedometer cable, transmission cooling lines and any other wire connections, some cars like mine will also require moving a supportive cross member. Have a friend help...

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: getting space between trans and block 1993 caravan 3.0

unfortunately the only answer is to take the trans out of your way. you would need plenty of space in order to pry out old freeze plug and hammer in new one, of course with freeze plug installer.

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

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2 Answers

I have pulled trans pan on 1996 sunfire but still dont see shift silinoids.where are they hiding?

Most of the shift solenoids are located under the "side" pan of the transmission, not the underside transmission pan. The side pan is difficult to access and might best be handled by someone who has removed this type of cover before.

Sep 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Manual 2WD Gear box won't come off back of motor,have undone all bell housing bolts including starter motor, any tips?

the MUA box? NOT THE T5R, so why not just say it????

may be the Fly wheel pilot bearing is seized.?

my guess you got to step 12 (12 = 1 below)
  1. Remove the slave cylinder heat protector. Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder. Don't disconnect the hydraulic line.
  2. Remove the slave cylinder dust covers.
  3. Matchmark the driveshafts at the flanges and remove them.
  4. Disconnect the reverse light switch, 4WD indicator switch, 1-2 and 3-4 indicator switch harness connectors.
  5. Disconnect the speed sensor harness connector.
  6. Remove the 2 harness clamps from the transmission case.
  7. Attach a chain hoist to the engine.
  8. Using a transmission jack, raise the transmission slightly. Remove the 2 rear transmission mounting nuts.
  9. Remove the center crossmember (8 bolts).
21 is for 4wd
1 below is 22
  1. Remove the 3 flywheel inspection cover bolts.
  2. Use clutch release bearing remover J-39207 or an equivalent pry tool to release the bearing from the pressure plate. Push the release fork toward the rear of the vehicle. Insert the tool between the release bearing and the pressure plate collar. Move the lever to the rear to pry.
  3. Raise the engine slightly with a chain hoist and remove the bolts and nuts securing the transmission to the engine.
  4. Carefully pull the transmission rearward. Lower the transmission from the vehicle.

I'd never do major work on any drive line with out the FSM at my side.
or a login acount at
or fail big time, for $15 bucks, was it worth it, bet not.

Jul 03, 2014 | 1994 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

How to install a clutch kit on my 1994 mitsubishi mighty max

Disconnect the battery, disconnect the Hydraulic Line from the Slave Cylinder, Remove the Starter (2 bolts, 2 wires. Bolts are 14mm, 1 wire is 12mm, 1 plugs in), Remove the Driveshaft(s) (4 12mm bolts) Remove the 6 bolts from the bellhousing (4 are 14mm, 2 are 10mm)
Remove the bolt from the Transfer Case Mount, 12mm (only if it's a 4WD, if it's 2WD this doesn't apply), remove the 2 bolts that hold the Transmission Mount to the Crossmember (12mm or 14mm, it varies)
Slide the transmission back on the crossmember, away from the engine, I recommend running a ratchet strap across the frame to balance the transmission.
Remove the Pressure Plate from the Flywheel (Six 10mm bolts), Inspect the Pilot Bearing (if it needs replaced, you'll need to remove the Flywheel which is held on with six 18mm bolts, drive out the old bearing and drive in the new one, reinstall the flywheel, using Threadlocker on the bolts, torque the bolts to 100 ft lbs) Install the new clutch disc and Pressure Plate, with the centering tool inserted through the disc into the pilot bearing. Use thread locker on the pressure plate bolts and torque them to 20 ft lbs. Remove the centering/alignment tool after you've bolted it together
Remove old Throw Out bearing from input shaft on the transmission and slide the new one on. Slide the Transmission forward (make sure the input shaft slides into the pilot bearing, don't force the transmission into place or you could damage the clutch disc or break the input shaft) Torque the Bellhousing Bolts to 40 ft lbs (4 14mm bolts), Torque the 2 10mm bolts to 14 ft lbs, Install the Starter (torque bolts to 23 ft lbs), Reconnect Hydraulic Line to Slave Cylinder. Torque Transmission Mount Bolts to 30 ft lbs.
Reinstall Driveshafts, torque bolts on flange/yoke to 40 ft lbs. Fill Clutch Master Cylinder with DOT-3 Brake & Clutch Fluid, Open Bleeder Screw on Slave Cylinder and bleed the air out of the system, close bleeder screw.
Reconnect the wires to the Starter, Reconnect the battery.

Aug 24, 2011 | Mitsubishi Mighty Max Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Take engine out of 1995 cadillac sts

6L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the air cleaner inlet duct.
  3. Matchmark the hood hinge-to-hood and remove the hood.
  4. Drain the coolant from the radiator.
  5. Remove the left and right torque struts. Install the left front strut bolt back into the bracket.
  6. Disconnect the radiator hoses at the water crossover. Remove both cooling fans from the engine.
  7. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt.
  8. Detach the cruise control servo connections and the ISC motor electrical connector.
  9. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body cam. Disconnect the shift cable from the park/neutral switch. Remove the cable bracket at the transaxle.
  10. Remove the park/neutral switch and disconnect the power brake vacuum hose.
  11. At the rear of the right head, disconnect the cylinder head temperature switch.
  12. Remove the bellhousing bolts.
  13. Remove the ignition coils and remove the spark plug wires.
  14. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  15. Remove the oil pan-to-transmission brace. Remove the torque converter splash shield and the four converter-to-flywheel bolts.
  16. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the oil filter adapter.
  17. Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts and detach the electrical connectors. Move compressor out of way.
  18. Detach the electrical connectors from the left side of the engine and move the harness from behind the exhaust manifold.
  19. Remove the two nuts that secure the motor mount to the engine cradle front crossmember.
  20. Remove the exhaust Y-pipe and remove the right front wheel.
  21. Remove the crankcase to transmission bracket at the transmission tail shaft. Disconnect the knock sensor.
  22. Remove the bolt from the transmission to the cylinder head brace at the cylinder head.
  23. Lower the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel inlet and fuel return lines using special tool J37088 or equivalent.
  24. Detach the injector harness connector and the hoses from the coolant reservoir. Remove the reservoir.
  25. Disconnect the cam position sensor. Disconnect the heater hoses from the water pipes at the front of the right cylinder head.
  26. Disconnect the battery cable from the junction block and remove the retainer at the cylinder head.
  27. Disconnect the starter cable from the junction block.
  28. Disconnect the power steering pump pressure and return lines at the pump. Return power steering line retainer from the right front of the crankcase.
  29. Disconnect the rear oxygen sensor.
  30. Remove the three screws securing the wiring harness retainer to right cam cover and position harness out of the way.
  31. Connect an engine-lifting device to the engine using the support hooks at left and right rear of engine. The torque strut bracket at the left front of the engine should be used as a third lifting hook.
  32. Carefully remove the engine from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Lower the engine into the vehicle. Remove the lifting device.
  2. Install the 4 bell housing bolts and tighten to 75 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Install 2 nuts to the motor mount at the front cradle crossmember. Do not fully tighten.
  5. Install bolt to the cylinder head for transmission brace. Do not fully tighten.
  6. Install the transmission to crankcase bracket with the 4 bolts. Do not fully tighten the bolts.
  7. Tighten the motor mount to cradle crossmember bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the transmission brace bolt and transmission to crankcase bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  8. Install the right front wheel and connect the knock sensor.
  9. Install the exhaust Y-pipe.
  10. Install the 4 torque converter to flywheel bolts and tighten to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  11. Install the converter splash shield and install the transmission to oil pan brace. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  12. Position the A/C compressor in place and install the mounting bolts.
  13. Route the electrical harness along the left side of the engine and connect the connectors.
  14. Connect the oil cooler lines to the oil filter adapter.
  15. Lower the vehicle.
  16. Secure the wiring harness to the right cam cover with the 3 screws.
  17. Connect the rear oxygen sensor and connect the cam position sensor.
  18. Connect the power steering hoses to the pump and secure the return line to the crankcase.
  19. Connect the heater hoses to the water pipes.
  20. Connect the starter and battery cables at the junction box. Secure battery cable with retainer.
  21. Connect and install the coolant reservoir.
  22. Install coils and secure with 4 screws.
  23. Install the serpentine drive belt and connect the injector harness to the FIS harness.
  24. Connect the fuel line connectors. Connect the cylinder head temperature switch to the rear of the right head.
  25. Connect the power brake vacuum line.
  26. Install the park/neutral switch and shift cable. Adjust switch if necessary.
  27. Install the cruise servo and connect the ISC motor.
  28. Connect the throttle cable and install both cooling fans.
  29. Connect the radiator hoses to the water crossover.
  30. Install the torque struts and adjust the preload to zero.
  31. Connect the negative battery cable.
  32. Refill the engine with coolant. Install the hood and install the air cleaner.
  33. Start the engine and check for oil, coolant, or transaxle leaks.

May 06, 2011 | Cadillac STS Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 1998 Ford F150 4.2 motor V-6 4x4. When I put it in drive it will not go forward. I looked underneath and my drive shaft is really loose how do I fix it. I think that my drive train is broke...

Sounds like your drive shaft may be the issue. If it is not connected to the rear differential, and you put it in drive, the truck won't move, and when you go into park, it grinds due to the fact that the transmission is still turning. It may have a bad u-joint or broken hub. It should be removed to inspect and repair it. remove the nuts at the rear part of the drive shaft yoke. It should slide out of the transmission after that. Note that u-joints need to be pressed in.

Feb 26, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

Torque specification on a 2003 alero cylinder heads 3.4 liter

3.4L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the lower intake manifold.
  2. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
  3. If removing the right cylinder head, remove the catalytic converter from exhaust manifold.
  4. If removing the left cylinder head, remove the engine oil dipstick and tube.
  5. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods.
  6. Remove and discard the cylinder head bolts.
  7. Remove the cylinder head.
  8. Clean the mating surfaces on the following items:
    • Cylinder head
    • Cylinder block
    • Intake manifold
  9. Clean the cylinder block bolt threads.
NOTE: During disassembly, keep the valve train components together for proper location during assembly.
To Install:
NOTE: Coat the cylinder head bolt threads using thread sealer.
  1. If removed, install the following components:
    • Exhaust manifold
    • Accessory studs
    • Spark plugs
  2. Place the cylinder head gasket in position over the dowel pins. Ensure that the THIS SIDE UP note is showing.
  3. Install the cylinder head. Cylinder head torque sequence ’99-‘00 gmpc_v6_14.gif

    Cylinder head torque sequence ’01-05 gm-03-34-682.gif

  4. Install the new cylinder head bolts.
    • Tighten the cylinder head bolts a first pass to 44 ft lb (60 Nm).
  5. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence an additional 95 degrees.
  6. Install the intake gasket.
  7. Install the pushrods and rocker arms.
  8. Raise and support the vehicle.
  9. Install the catalytic converter and dipstick tube and indicator if removed.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Install the exhaust crossover pipe.
  12. Install the intake manifolds.
  13. Connect negative battery cable.
  14. Fill the cooling system.

Jul 03, 2010 | 2003 Oldsmobile Alero

4 Answers

I have a 2000 all-wheel-drive, the rear drive shaft is broken. I can't find the manual that covers Chrysler all-wheel-drive, it looks like the ABS monitor in it, and something from the transmission...

place a jack under the transmission and raise it a bit unbolt (the transmission mount) "i think thats what u mean its all i know that above the transmission holding it in place. You'll need a rachet wrench for this and a long onbe at that,, if not you can use a piece of pipe,, you'll want the extra power.. Unbolt it and lift it off,, if its still too tight jack the transmission up a bit.That providing your refering to the transmissing mounting rubber Which is all i can think you man its the only thing above the transmission. The ABS is 2 parts ,, its a mastercylinder and a booster. Its mounted on the firewall (its the thing you pour brake fluid in.) Unjack any wire or hoses by unscrewiung them and pluging them with something.. DUCT TAAPE or rescue tape works.. Unbloth both the mastercylinder and booster from the firewall... unmounting the drive shat.. well you'll see where it bolts ,, front and back.. Thats the easir part.. you will heed o happer, pull and tug the shaft until it pops out.. Hope I was helpful.. if you need more help please feel free to ask.

Mar 08, 2010 | Chrysler Town and Country Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need to replace the transmission mount on a '94 1500 4.3L, 4X4. Which is easier, support the transmission and remove the cross member or release the engine mount bolts and raise the drive train? Tks

Supporting the transmission while removing the cross-member is easier. You will have the engine mount holding the whole thing in precise place, while you deal with the crossmember, and the transmission.

Comparing: if you release the engine mount bolts and jack up the drive-train, the whole thing would shift, and you could have trouble when the cross-member fails to go up well enough.

On the other hand, if the cross-member bolts fail to release due to "home-mechanic" syndrome, you have only the first option.

Dec 03, 2009 | 1994 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Blown head gaskit need to remove head and replace with new ong

2.2L (VIN 4) Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Air cleaner outlet duct
    • Engine mount
    • Intake manifold
    • Exhaust manifold
    • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector
    • Power steering pump
    • Radiator inlet pipe
    • Spark plug wires
    • Rocker arm cover

    NOTE Whenever valve train components are removed, keep them in order for installation purposes.

    • Rocker arms and pushrods
    • Lifters
    • Alternator rear brace and the alternator
    • Power steering pump
    • Radiator inlet pipe
    • Ignition coil assembly
    • Accessory bracket
    • Spark plug wires
    • Cylinder head bolts

    WARNING Two sizes of bolts are used; note the location of each.

    • Cylinder head
  5. Inspect the cylinder head and block surface for cracks, nicks, heavy scratches and flatness.
Cylinder head torquing sequence—2.2L (VIN 4) engine

  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Cylinder head with a new gasket and new cylinder head bolts. Torque the long bolts, in sequence to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm) and the short bolts to 43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) plus an additional 90 degree turn on all the bolts.
    • Lifters
    • Pushrods and rocker arms. Torque nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    • Rocker arm cover. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    • Spark plug wires
    • Accessory bracket
    • Ignition coil assembly
    • Radiator inlet pipe
    • Power steering pump. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    • ECT sensor electrical connector
    • Exhaust manifold. Torque the nuts to 118 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
    • Alternator. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    • Intake manifold. Torque the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
    • Engine mount. Torque the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
    • Air cleaner outlet duct
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
  3. Start the vehicle and inspect for leaks.

Oct 08, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier

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