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Volvo FL6 overheating. Not using water and water is returning to header tank. Can you tell me common causes

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Clogged radiator

Posted on Dec 09, 2016

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My x585 overheating if I hose down the radiator it cools down but I don't know why it keeps overheating.


if its overheating but staying cool at radiator then its more likely to be a failed thermostat, the thermostat should open up to let more water though to cool engine down, if it becomes faulty it does not open so there is inadequate flow and courses on over heat. and weak part is the header tank, it can also cause rubber pipes to pop or split. and blow the head gasket, so don't drive until thermostat is checked and changed, air in system should be released but the header tank it has a valve fitted to let off steam,

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There is coolant that runs through it so u check the 2 hoses going to it

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No idea here this is not a car question and iam not a plumber but i did have a emersion heater years ago and the cold feed from a header tank in the loft went into the heater and their was two feeds one from the tank and one direct from the mains with a special non return valve in the main line feed --why it didnt just fill from the header tank i have no idea but from that i would say the feed for your heater would be much the same with a header tank in case the inlet supply froze up ? Sorry iam a car mechanic so i have no idea but the return inlet pipe would be my logical choice

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Nissan terrano 2.9 turbo Water in header tank


There is a leaking coolant hose, or a perforation of the Heater Matrix.Often a temporary quick fix is to shut off the incoming Hot Coolant and crimp the return to engine hose with a Long Nose snap lock.
Regards,DT.

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Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors Your cooling system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors, Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s) and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's electronic systems.
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for short-term emergencies!
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and "free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary fan switch".
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3) lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control). Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
Temperature control is critical to both performance and emission control. Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor signals.
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain". Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally (engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving. Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or mileage limits helps as well

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Holden Barina 1996 Car is overheating in minutes, thermostat and heater tap have recently been replaced, coolant level is full, fan fuse is ok what could be the problem?


Hi! Was the thermostat and other items replaced due to this overheating? you say coolant level full? maybe your header tank is full but the system isn't? Try bleeding the system. From cold, start the engine with radiator/header tank cap OFF stay with the vehicle and have some very warm water handy. DON'T look over the filler but watch it as the car gets to operating temperature if the water drops drastically top it up with warm water again stay with the car it may take a long time to level out. If the car is bubbling furiously and doesn't want to settle then possible HEAD GASKET Failure or Water pump.
Does your oil look milky on the dipstick? is there an excessive amount of water coming out of the exhaust? are your hoses swelling with radiator/header tank cap on at operating temp?
Sorry to be the possible bearer of bad tiding if the Gasket has gone, but better to sort it now than cause irreprable damage?

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