Question about Ford F-150

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1996 ford f150. Replaced the washer pump but still no fluid. I hear a click behind the glove box when I push the button. Is there a relay or something?

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  • Ford Master
  • 11,452 Answers

Did you check for B+ voltage at the pump motor ? Do you know how to test before just replacing parts .There is a wiper control module .
Don't worry about a relay , your vehicle has relay's for a lot of thing's. Take the connector off the washer pump ,hook a volt meter or a test light is there B+ voltage an test the black with white stripe wire ! When someone else pushes the washer switch , button .what ever it has !

Posted on Dec 07, 2016

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Mike258
  • 1498 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 honda civic wont start

Hi Meadors,

The clicking sound you heard most likely the starter solenoid engaging the starter. Only in this case it's failing to engage the starter. This is a classic symptom of a low battery. Here's why.

In a perfect world, when you turn the key to start:

  1. the solenoid is fed 12VDC which engages an electromagnetic coil inside it.
  2. A spring loaded steel piston inside this coil reacts to the magnetic field. It is pulled against the spring. By itself this sounds like a loud decisive CLICK.
  3. The movement of the piston simultaneously pushes the starter gear into the flywheel and sends power to the starter via heavy duty contacts. The starter draws a lot of power.
  4. The starter spins, turns the engine, the engine starts, life is good.
  5. When the key is released, the solenoid disengages, the spring pushes the piston back, the starter gear disengages from the flywheel.
In our world, when you turn the key to start:
  1. The solenoid which draws it's share of power engages as before. Click.
  2. As the starter tries to spin, the power available is insufficient. It draws all remaining power, there isn't enough left to keep the solenoid active and it turns off.
  3. Since the starter isn't drawing power anymore, the solenoid re-engages and the cycle starts over. Click.
  4. The cycle repeats. Click. A series of rapid clicks. Same page?
While a dead battery is the prime suspect, there can be other causes. Things to do:

  • Check belts, specifically on the alternator.
  • Terminal connections clean and tight.
  • In the 'Let's not over look the obvious' department: Battery voltage?
  • Get a jump. Try a jump start.
  • If a jump gets you going, it is either the battery not holding a charge or the alternator not providing one.
Even new batteries can be bad off the shelf. Especially if they have been on that shelf for a while. They may show the voltage but not the amps. This is called a 'Surface Charge'.

If you don't have a voltmeter, what you need to do now is visit an auto parts store (not a shop). Most (in the hope of making a sale) will provide free testing of batteries and charging systems.

What you need is called a "Load Test" on the battery. It simulates the load of an engine being started. This will confirm the battery is good or bad.

Then with the car running, they need to check the voltage to the battery (they will know this). If it's not above +13VDC, the alternator is bad or not connected correctly.

And if it doesn't start, what better place to be?

Let me know what they and you find out by commenting.
Best regards
Mike

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

SOURCE: 98 Chevy S10 4wd drive will not engage when button is pushed

your problem sounds like either the transfer case control module located where you hear the clicking sound, or the actuator on the transfer case itself.

try unplugging the transfer case control module and then plug it back in, try engaging 4wd again (make sure your in neutral, coasting at 1-2 mph might help as well) if it still doesn't work check the actuator itself to see if the actuator is trying to engage. if the actuator is trying to engage but doesn't, take the actuator out and check it for wear or damage. if the actuator seems fine and it responds to the buttons when pressed i'd go after the transfer case control module as the culprit. ran into that a few times on those s-10's. 3 out of 4 that i've seen were fixed with a new tccm. 1 of the 4 needed an actuator, check your local junk yard for a working tccm or actuator.

hope this helps!

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

csmock132
  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: PROBLEM WITH MY HEATER/AIR CONDITIONING BLOWING

Remove the glove box, you will see the relays, sounds like a bad ground.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

fkuk
  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 FORD WINDSTAR 3.8 NO POWER TO FUEL PUMP TRIED

check fuses

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanx that was it. Did not think relay would work with bad fuse."

sscullys
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Ford F150 Electric Fuel Pump will npt pump

Did you check the fuel inertia switch in the passenger side kick panel ?

The fuel pump is powered :
the fuse to the fuel pump relay.
The fuel pump relay to the fuel inertia switch
The fuel inertia switch to the fuel pump itself.

At the fuel inertia switch in the kick panel, power from the relay is the Dark Green w/ Yellow stripe wire and the pink w/ black stripe wire is the power. from the fuel inertia switch to the fuel pump.

If you jumper the fuel pump relay, you should hear it run. If not pull the fuel pump relay, and check the pins in the relay socket, pin 30 should be the power from the fuse.

50b0c31.jpg

If you have power at pin #30, jumper the relay socket as shown with the red line above, and check the dark green w/ yellow stripe wire at the fuel inertia switch for power.
Press the button on the top of the fuel inertia switch, and check for power leaving the fuel inertia switch on the pink w/ black stripe wire.

This is tests good, check for power at the fuel pump, same pink w/ black stripe wire.
Fuel inertia switch info is in the owners manual, If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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