Question about Ford F-150
Did you check for B+ voltage at the pump motor ? Do you know how to test before just replacing parts .There is a wiper control module .
Don't worry about a relay , your vehicle has relay's for a lot of thing's. Take the connector off the washer pump ,hook a volt meter or a test light is there B+ voltage an test the black with white stripe wire ! When someone else pushes the washer switch , button .what ever it has !
Posted on Dec 07, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1996 honda civic wont start
The clicking sound you heard most likely the starter solenoid engaging the starter. Only in this case it's failing to engage the starter. This is a classic symptom of a low battery. Here's why.
In a perfect world, when you turn the key to start:
If you don't have a voltmeter, what you need to do now is visit an auto parts store (not a shop). Most (in the hope of making a sale) will provide free testing of batteries and charging systems.
What you need is called a "Load Test" on the battery. It simulates the load of an engine being started. This will confirm the battery is good or bad.
Then with the car running, they need to check the voltage to the battery (they will know this). If it's not above +13VDC, the alternator is bad or not connected correctly.
And if it doesn't start, what better place to be?
Let me know what they and you find out by commenting.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
your problem sounds like either the transfer case control module located where you hear the clicking sound, or the actuator on the transfer case itself.
try unplugging the transfer case control module and then plug it back in, try engaging 4wd again (make sure your in neutral, coasting at 1-2 mph might help as well) if it still doesn't work check the actuator itself to see if the actuator is trying to engage. if the actuator is trying to engage but doesn't, take the actuator out and check it for wear or damage. if the actuator seems fine and it responds to the buttons when pressed i'd go after the transfer case control module as the culprit. ran into that a few times on those s-10's. 3 out of 4 that i've seen were fixed with a new tccm. 1 of the 4 needed an actuator, check your local junk yard for a working tccm or actuator.
hope this helps!
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
Did you check the fuel inertia switch in the passenger side kick panel ?
The fuel pump is powered :
the fuse to the fuel pump relay.
The fuel pump relay to the fuel inertia switch
The fuel inertia switch to the fuel pump itself.
At the fuel inertia switch in the kick panel, power from the relay is the Dark Green w/ Yellow stripe wire and the pink w/ black stripe wire is the power. from the fuel inertia switch to the fuel pump.
If you jumper the fuel pump relay, you should hear it run. If not pull the fuel pump relay, and check the pins in the relay socket, pin 30 should be the power from the fuse.
If you have power at pin #30, jumper the relay socket as shown with the red line above, and check the dark green w/ yellow stripe wire at the fuel inertia switch for power.
Press the button on the top of the fuel inertia switch, and check for power leaving the fuel inertia switch on the pink w/ black stripe wire.
This is tests good, check for power at the fuel pump, same pink w/ black stripe wire.
Fuel inertia switch info is in the owners manual, If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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