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I have a 1994 Holden vsCommodore,the problem i have is three days ago it started making a rattling noise coming from the front of the engine.This morning it won't start,cranks no start.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 04 Endeavor rattling noise

I had the same problem! I crawled underneath the car and discovered that a heat shield on the exhaust header pipe was corroded and rattling against the exhaust pipe. (Before the muffler)
I removed the portion and clamps and solved the problem. Give it a try.

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

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SOURCE: Acura Legend Sedan 3.2 lts 1994

replace de ignition module first.. if still wont start good chances is the crank sensor is located behind the timing belt.. my 94 legend use to do the same thing until i replace the crank sensor.. and also if u can afford i will suggest u to replace the main fuel relay too... all this is after u are 100 pcnt sure that ur fuel pump is working....

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

emissionwiz
  • 76649 Answers

SOURCE: Hard to start in the morning. Also stalls

This sounds like a fuel pump check valve problem, if the fuel is not kept in the filter and lines by the check valve it drains back into the fuel tank and causes the kind of problems you are having, you can check this by hooking up a fuel pressure guage at the test port on the fuel manifold that supplies fuel to the injectors, run the engine and shut it down, note the fuel pressure at shut down (with the test guage hooked up), walk away for an hour, come back and check the pressure, it should not have dropped more than 5 PSI You can buy a universal fuel injection pressure tester for about $25.00, cheaper than having a shop run the test. If the pressure drops you found the problem, bad news is the check valve is in the pump, the pump is in the gas tank.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: RATTLING NOISE AT OIL PAN AREA ON 1998 DODGE RAM 1500 5.9 LITER

rod bearing , engine needs rebuilt

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

VonZeppelen
  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: rattling noise during engine start up.. 2005 mitz galant 2.4l

Probably a heat shield. Often time the screws that hold the shields in place rust away causing the shield to rattle. After the exhaust heats up, the pipes and shield expand causing the shield to stop rattling until it cools down again later when the car has been sitting for a while. Usually you'll find shields under or around the catalytic converter and around the exhaust pipe nearest to the engine. Most folks would probably recommend you remove the shield and be done with it. That's your call. Just remember though, the shields are there for a reason. In particular, the shield under the catalytic converter is there to prevent the possibility of starting tall grass on fire in the event you had to pull off the road for example to fix a flat tire or something along those lines. It might be unlikely, but its definitely been known to happen. Let us know how it goes. Thanks.

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

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Oil in the coolant is usually an intake manifold gasket problem on these engines. If a head gasket failure the engine will normally overheat and give erratic temp guage readings. Make sure the oil level is full. Is the rattle noise coming from the engine? Some times the exhaust (converter) will fail and the catylist will seperate causing a rattle noise from the exhaust and plug it up giving a no power situation

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A serious problem with the tensioner, or the timing belt, or the oil pump-or all three.
The rattle you heard probably started with the tensioner, or maybe a belt guide so worn it came apart. Then your problems just cascaded, after the belt lost it. Well, I don't know how it started to be honest, but all that oil is surely related. I suppose the oil pump on your engine is run by the timing belt.
It is time for some serious shop work on the front of your engine. Hopefully, there is no internal damage, but that is a possibility, if the belt was broke or so loose that it allowed a piston to meet a valve. Neither wins, but you lose.

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My Audi A4 2009 makes a rattling noise on cold starts which resolves in less than 30 seconds. Dealer says its an air pump. This doesn't seem correct. The noise comes from the front of the care. Does not...


READ THIS (happy ending so far...):
audi a4 2L turbo quattro, manual transmission with 98,000 KM. Perfect conditions, no oil leaks whatsoever.

Left the car off for two weeks in very cold weather (-10C down to -25C). When I restarted, it started immediately but with heavy rattling noise due to camshaft adjuster not getting enough oil pressure. After 3 minutes of warming up (outside temp.: -12C) at very low rpm (below 2,000rpm), I start moving the car. Still hearing heavy rattle noise. As soon as I pass 2,000 rpm, I get a scary red warning, low oil pressure. Turn off the engine immediately. In 1 minute, I re-start the car and the engine lights check ok, so I drive in first gear super slow (1,200rpm) hearing the same rattling noise. After another minute, finally the noise all the sudden disappears and the car starts running just fine.

Called Audi dealer and they told me that in extreme weather conditions, I should warm the engine for 10-15 minutes if necessary before start moving.
Take away: luckily, I didn't screw up the engine since I was using it at extremely low rpm (easy to do with clutch and manual transmission) until the oil reached full pressure. I am pretty sure now that the problem was leaving the car off for such a long time in freezing weather. All the oil flows back to the bottom, and when I restarted it, the cold oil with high viscosity took a long time to reach all the parts of the engine, specially the camshaft adjusters that are actuated by using oil pressure. Next day, the car started at -9C perfectly without making any noise (as usual). Basically, the longer you leave your audi in cold weather, the longer you might hear the rattling noise until the oil reach full pressure inside the engine. My car took 6 minutes to fix it after couple of weeks in cold weather. This makes sense to me; in fact, in the past I only heard the rattling noise after leaving the car off for a couple of days in the winter.
So far, this has had an happy ending....

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4.0l's are notorious for valve rattle on cold start-up. There is really nothing you can do to make it go away short of completely replacing the valve train in the top end, and that isn't a permanent fix. It's is an top end oiling issue from the factory. Just don't race your engine on cold start-up until the rattle stops.

The rattle in the transmission sounds to me to be more of a loose dust shield/heat shield around the transmission or exhaust than a mechanical issue.

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